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shirahime_gw

...am I doing it right? Invitation for constructive critiques

ShiraHime
10 years ago

I am Very new to Plumerias. I purchased 2 small potted plants in February ( I don't even remember what type YIKES)
I immediately repotted them (or potted up) I used the egg method on both they did...well I believe (I guess)

They began producing leaves and new growth.
I BELIEVE I had a slight incident with black tip fungus and I pruned away the affected area on my shorter plant. It has since resolved (at least I think)

My taller plant has grown VERY quickly. It was affected by some yellowing and leaves falling off. I immediately adjusted the watering schedule and got them some out door time, well then it grew MORE. I watched it sway in a very slight wind. That scared me into repotting it.
Today I potted up again and noticed that the bottom of my 1 gallon pot was still quite moist despite the top of the soil seeming dry (point noted) When I repotted I bought peat most perlite and orchid mix (to improve drainage... at least I hope)
As I did when I potted up the first time I used the raw egg method. I also included the nasty shell from the first repotting.
Here are some stats for me
Small potted plants arrived in late February
They immediately came out of dormancy
I planted each in a 1 gallon pot
I live in Pa
I have been using miracle grow rose food (but only very recently)
I have no clue what type of plumerias I have

Here are my concerns.
my newest choice in soil... (miracle grow cactus mix for my smaller plant and a miz of the cactus mix-perlite-peat moss-and orchid mix for my second plant)
The egg method, I included... more than one in my recent potting up. Any comments on the eggs method at all?
My second plant is tall but very thin. It is no longer having yellowing issues

references. I have included a picture from when they were first repotted in Feb.
Plant 1 is in the orange
Plant 2 is in the white.
I invite anything and everything so long as you don't tell me to stop trying or I am a complete moron.

Comments (2)

  • PRO
    the_first_kms2
    10 years ago

    Nobody will call you anything bad on this forum. We are too happy to have the company.

    How far and wide do you want to go is the question to ask. IMO just working with what you have so far...Peat may not be the best for drainage so that could be part of the issue. What if you used a wick to help pull the water downward and out of the container. Just lift the pot and stick a long mop string or other comparable string in the center drain hole with a screwdriver. Push a few inches in and then let the wick hang down through the gap in the deck planks. It will help pull that excess moisture out. Not the end all save all solution but still has an effect.

    I am only familiar with others using the Egg Method in starting a cutting so could not give you insight one way or another. Best of luck.

  • powderpuff
    10 years ago

    I don't know how big the root mass is on the tree in the white pot and there is no photo of the one in the orange pot. I can't see the leaves very well but from that picture it looks like a Pudica or something has been munching on the leaves. If it is already rooting, I'm confused as to why you are still using eggs? I believe that is only for unrooted cuttings.

    That white pots looks really big for that plant in my opinion unless the roots are really good. Is that a 1 gallon? If it was wet in the first one gallon, then the roots most likely had not filled the pot, is that correct? Newly rooted,... I like to keep in small posts until they fill it.... less dirt with few roots ...less chance of it staying too wet.

    I think there is no better medium to root Plumeria in than Al's Gritty Mix. They don't wobble around and they dry out fast so it's very hard to rot them.

    I callous them really well, for minimum 2 weeks sometimes 4 until they are bulging and ready to put out roots as soon as I pot them. If they begin to shrivel, I mist them daily.

    I dip them in Dip N' Grow and lay them in barely damp Pine Bark fines or any type of mulch. It should be moist, but not wet. I barely cover them and leave the top 6" or so laying against the side of the container I have the mulch in. I use a plastic storage container. Leave them in a warm humid place, where there is no chance of it getting wet and just wait. If the mulch gets to dry, dampen it with a spray bottle. You can move the cuttings around since they don't have any roots.

    I want to note that they canl begin to root in the mulch and I have found it's better to catch them before they do, when they are getting ready to put out the roots, and put them in the ground, pots or wherever you are planning to put them. For some reason if they root in the mulch, those roots don't seem to like it when they get put elsewhere and often die back.

    I like to use clear plastic bottles with holes drilled in the bottom and sides near the bottom. I water with Root Exelerator :

    http://www.house-garden.us/products/additives/roots-excelurator/

    as soon as I see roots. One you give them that the roots just explode and fill it up fairly fast. Then I cut the bottle apart and pot them in a 1 gallon pot until the roots fill that. Then in the appropriate size pot for the size of the tree.

    If it's in the spring, I root most right in the ground but late summer during the rainy season, I use the bottles. If you live north of Florida I would not try to root in the ground due too cool nights and soil that is not sandy like ours is.

    I have tried the egg method and personally think it's a lot of work and not needed. I believe callousing is one of the most important steps and getting impatient and potting too soon increases the chance of rot. I want to see big, bulges at the bottom of the cutting, the roots making it bulge out and swell.

    Don't give up if you lose some.

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