babyg- one of the problems with using roofs is that they get very cool at night. In the day they are fine but at night they cool too quickly. I had this problem once too. In the future you should use warm concrete as it radiates heat into the evening. If you rooted in only volcanic rock you are lucky to have one plant. The plants need a soil that is fast draining. In So. Cal we use redwood compost, ground bark, pumice and perlite. Around the country they usually start with a cactus mix and add items to help it dry quickly. Another post near this discusses the mixes. Put it outside on warm days so it gets as much sun as possible and bring in if the nights are below mid fifties. Do not overwater as the plants need to dry out between waterings. Plants can stay in a pot until they blow over in the wind so a two foot plant can be moved from a one gallon to a three and a four foot plant to a five gallon and a six foot plant to a 7 gallon. These are rough estimates as all plants do not grow alike. Fertilize now and through the summer but stop in the early fall to let the plant harden for winter. Good luck. Bill

Lauri 9,

When I read you post I got a different meaning from it than Bill and Jen got. It seems to me that since your cuttings are very healed, the seller wants you to put them into a couple of inches of water for 2 weeks FIRST, and then pot it up as usual. That way the heal can absorb some water and rehydrate faster than it would if you just stuck it in the pot.

In doing so, you should be able to speed up the rooting process. That is my interpretation.

Thanks Bill, so I'm still unsure what to do now.

MEDIUM. It's been almost a year since I potted it, so I'm not sure, but I think it's got BIG red chunks of red volcanic rock, mixed with cactus mix, ...I think. Do you think it's ok to leave it in that mix for now? Or should I repot it in the same size pot and different medium until it's two feet tall

LOCATION. I moved it outside. I live in an apartment building...If it's not on the roof, I have no control over the watering schedule, because of the sprinkler system. I put it on a second inverted clay pot that drains over soil, because the building waters EVERYTHING every night at dusk automatically, and I wanted it to drain. Should I move the inverted pot over the cement instead for heat? It's hot here. Do you think it's okay where it is? It's protected there from other residents, dogs, etc.

It's 60-73 at night, and 70-95 during the day. My little garden is protected by walls on four sides, gets light all day, and gets sprinked at dusk.

Bill you are a God send...just reading the past questions has helped. I am now up to 108 in Ventura and want more...I had a seed pod in '05 and sprouted 25 very viable plants and some are now starting to bloom. Do I understand correctly that after 3 years of photos I can register and name them? A few seem unique on smell and form...but you have heard that before I am sure...thanks, roxanne

I do not change soil mix until the spring. You can change after any hope of flowering is passed. Your plant is ok as long as it is hot but if it cools I would drape a plastic sheet over it when the sprinklers come on and only let it water once a week or so.
roxanne. I do not know about registering a plant as I have been lax in this area. My "Sherry" is my favorite seedling but it is not official.
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Hi Bill. I recently received a plumeria cutting from my mother's neighbor whose plant was top heavy and broke off. I let it scab over for a week and planted it today. I would like to know if I should prune it and cut off the flower stalks to promote rooting or if it will root with the stalks on it. If I do need to cut it, what is the proper way to do that? Also, I live in south orange county, california so will my plumeria ever go dormant? When should i stop watering because it usually stays warm here through december. Thanks in advance!
-Susie

Susie- prune off all the leaves and any inflos (flower stalks), place the pot on hot concrete, mist the branches often but do not water again until you have 6" leaves. Almost all plumies will go dormant between Nov and Feb in this area (I am in Costa Mesa). Bottom leaves will yellow and drop off first. It may take several months to root and this is as late as I would try in So. Cal. You may just cut the inflo and leaves at where it comes out from the branch. Bill

Bill, congrats on your seedling Sherry! It is beautiful!!! Any chance you've kept track of who the parents were?

mom= Cindy Moragne:
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Father (maybe)=J.L.Pink Pansey:
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I wonder why "sherry is such a beauty..." I know why!!!

She is "the Beauty" ....of all Plumies..I agree with you Bill!

Sherry is a winner!!!! Inside and out!!!!

Take care and great advice too all of the above posters....you are the best!!!

Take care everyone,

Laura in VB

Bill,

I agree with Laura, beautiful blossom!

Bill, your "Sherry" is to DIE for!!! I would have never guessed that those two were the parent plants. How many seedlings did you grow to get that beauty? Gives us all hope that we might get a beauty too from a seedling. And I thought they were just for root stock for grafting. Peg

Peg- I grew 50 seedlings of which I kept 3. Most looked somewhat like Cindy M and a few had some color but I kept the Sherry and:
Monique:
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William:
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I still have about 6 that have not flowered (8 years).

Wow Bill, I don't think I'd have the patience or space to grow 50 seedlings and then wait up to 8+ years to see what I got. You are a saint for sure. Of course you did end up with some beauties as a reward. Plumies will teach you patience. Thanks for the info. Peg

Hi, I have plumeria that has grown so large that it's blocking my walkway.....can I cut off that particular branch and replant as a cutting? I'm in Riv. CA. Thank you for your help.

I would wait until February to cut if you want to plant the top. Now you might not get roots in time. Cuttings made in Feb have a best chance of rooting in mid spring.

A friends tree just lost a 7 ft. branch that is a Y shape with many small flowering branches. I live in S. California, zone10, and want to know if it's to late in the season to start this cutting, and can I grow it as a cutting, or do I have to make it a lot of smaller cuttings? I'd like to plant it as a tree and not have to wait many years to get to a 7 ft. tree if possible. Also don't want to loose it, so am willing to do what ever it is. I've cut it at a 45 and that's all so far. Thanks ahead of time for the help. : )

I'd stick it in the garage or other cool place intil
spring. Read the Cutting in Sept thread.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cutting in Sept

I have planted and nurtered a cutting for 3 years and finally my tree is getting ready to bloom. However my tree grows straight up and is about chest high. There are no branches on it. When and how will the tree branch out? Thanks for your help.

Babyfeets, after it sends out the flower stalk and that matures a bit with several blooms, you'll notice at least one, maybe up to four new "claw" or leaf clusters around the base of the flower stalk. Those are the beginnings of new branches.

Like this:

We'd love to see pics of your new blooms when you get them!

Hello, I just purchased three cuttings from a nursery in Hawaii. They were all cut a week ago. I was hoping to pot these up today, but after reading all of the great information on this forum I feel I may have to wait at least a week or two so they develop more of a callus? I have a greenhouse and keep the temp at 68-71 One is a canopy cutting with 9 tips, the stem is 1.5" in diameter. I do have a heating mat as well.

Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!

I would wait even another week since they are so freshly cut before potting up. When you do, use a nice, light, fast-draining mix and your heating mat. The big one may be your best bet for rooting, and will do well with a good solid stake to keep it from jiggling. Good luck!

Thank you for the super quick response!! I am go glad I checked this forum today. Greatly appreciate your assistance!

Best regards,
Andrea

Hi Everyone,

What a great thread...this is where i first started reading about how Bill gave suggestion about "wookey" LOL... this was the very first thread that i clipped to save.

Thanks Bill for all of you time and patience with all of us. You have really taught us so much on how to take care of our trees.

This threads brings back a huge smile to me .. I wonder how "wookey' is doing?

We all need smiles.....i know i do!!!

Take care,

Laura

Hi
I got plumeria cuttings last summer and followed advice from this forum on how to get them established. I brought them in this fall when the weather was getting cool and they have been doing fine. I have backed off on watering, they are still in their pots, but now the top 1/2 in is soft. Thoughts on the cause or what I should do so I don't lose them? Thanks!

Hi Mona.
Most plumeria will start to dessicate if there not getting some water. If you think about it, even in they were growing wild in nature, there isn't any situation that I can think of where they wouldn't get some water.

Is it possible to post a picture? Without really seeing what's going on, I would say just give it a little bit of water. Maybe a half cup? Just enough for those tips to rehydrate and plump up again. Sadly, I lost a rooted plumeria cutting recently because I didn't pay attention to how much it was dessicating.

I hope this info helps you.

Andrew

Hi Laura,

I know exactly what you mean. I refer to Bill as the Plumeria Godfather! LOl...I know there are so many others here that know tons about growing plumerias!

I have to ask....what(or who) is whookey?

I still have some "goodies" for you come spring. I was VERY upset that both JJ 'Jenny' cuttings didn't take, and then to lose the mother tree! NOT HAPPY ABOUT THAT!

Take care and cannot wait to talk with ya again,
Andrew

Heyy Andrew,

"Wookey" is the OP named tree that they were asking about. Bill refers back to "wookey" as he is giving advice to the Original Poster...LOL

I wonder how is "Wookey" is doing now?

That would be fun to find out...I dont see that poster on here anymore...

How are you doing Andrew?

You all had some snow yesterday and today? Ugggg... glad im off for a few days!!!

Take care.

hope to chat soon!

Laura

Laura I am so glad you bumped up this thread. I was just wondering how to take cuttings, from my 3 oldest plants. I know that Bill said to cut them 6 inches from where they Y. My question is how long do the cuttings need to be? I want to make sure I have decent cuttings to offer in the spring. So how long do the cuttings need to be, and do they need to be cut at an angle? Barbra

Hey Barbara,

I have always liked this thread!!!

"Wookey" always makes me chuckle...

Lots of great information to read on this one and Bill gives some great advise to everyone on taking cuttings and how to start them as well.

Bill said that the cuttings cut from the bottom Y area should be at least 6 inches (again from the Y) or split.
How long does that leave the rest of the cutting if you give 6 inches to leave on the original stem? If it only gives you a cutting of 6 inches or less, i would not cut. I would cut only if the new cutting could be 8 inches or longer before i would consider to take a new cutting. IMO of course!!! Your cutting can be as long as you want!! : )

Bill had mentioned before that he has had huge cuttings that he has rooted into auto trees!!! LOL It all depends on how much you need to trim from your tree. When i trim mine this March, The first thing i look for is how long is the cutting and why do i feel the need to take a cutting. If it has already bloomed for me and i have another stem that is just as long, then i will probably take the cutting from the limb that has flowered so that i will possibly see a bloom from the other stem that has not.
We all like to cut at a 45* angle when prunning a tree. This goes for any tree that you would prune. (helps to prevent rot) Like Bill, wait for a day then seal the cut on the original tree. (Not the end of the cutting) Nature will naturally seal the end of the cutting. He likes to use Tub and Tile sealant. Some use other things. I have tried both and i had found that i like the Waterproof wood Glue to seal the ends on my trees. Everyone has something that they like.

I hope this helps!!

Laura

Laura. where do you get the waterproof wood glue? A craft store, or at Lowes? I will make sure that the cuttings are at least 8 inches, or I will not cut them until next year. You are right this thread has so much valuable information. Barbra

Hi Barbra,

Here is a picture of the Wood Glue that i seal my Plumeria, DR's and some others that i prune.

The Wood Glue is By Elmer's..."WoodGlue Max" I did find it at Lowes : ) It also says "Waterproof and Stainable" on the bottle.

Take care,

Laura

ARGH! So, I guess that putting my cutting of plumeria into a glass of water was NOT the correct thing to do?????? It's only been in the glass a few days. Can I save it?

Thanks

Donna, don't panic. It's probably fine, and some will root like that--my neighbor roots all her red and Celadine cuttings in a glass of water in a sunny window--but the most reliable method is in a fast-draining medium, watered once and then left alone.

It may take up to a few months, especially in winter/spring but it's your best bet. A heating mat will help it along, and so will lights and misting but they're not a necessity. A cutting that is robust and fresh is more likely to root for you in any case. Good luck.

My cutting, purchased from ebay for a mere $2, arrived a bit shriveled and dry looking. No instructions were included. I took it out of the glass of water, and wrapped a damp paper towel around it. Shall I cut off a piece of the end to allow water to be absorbed?

I do not want to hijack this thread, so I'll also look on Google.

Thanks!

Donna

Hi Donna,

IMO, I would NOT cut off the bottom of the stem. Then you would have to wait a week or so for it to callas up again. Leave it as is....

Jen gave you the best info on the cutting... Like she suggested, place on a heating mat inside a plastic bottle. Use a very fast draining mix and leave it alone. It could take 6-8 weeks for it to root especially this time of the year.

Here is another thread that we were talking about cuttings and other things. Good Luck on you Plumeria cutting.

Please let us know how it does for you.

The best advise we could give to you... get all of your things togather, heat mat, mix, bottle, then pot up the cutting about half way into the mix *(16 oz bottle) size firmly pack it in so it doesnt move around. Then water very lightly. Especially since yours was sitting in water. Then leave it alone. If you have a sunny window, that would be wonderful, if you have a grow light, that would be best. The key is to leave it alone and dont keep picking it up too see how it is doing. (We all have done this..) but it is a no no!!!

Dont worry about the thread... its alright to ask questions. The OP is nowhere to be found, but i would love to know how "Wookey" is doing : )

You can always start a new thread at the top of the Plumeria forum in the left hand side where is says "post a message"

Here is another link that you may find helpful..

Take care,

Welcome to the forum!!!

Laura

Here is a link that might be useful: Plumeria cane

Hi Barbra,

I noticed that my pic didnt show up on my bottle of glue, sorry! When i get home, i will send another!!!

Donna,

Here is another link that you may find useful. It cover lots of great information. Use what you can and then always ask questions if you dont understand something. That is why we are here. We are all learning...

Take care,

Laura

Here is a link that might be useful: Container Soils and Your Plants Nutrition

Thanks! I am going to a garden center this weekend and will purchase the soil. How about food? Should I get that on Saturday as well (at least for the future)?

Donna

Hi, everyone. Just an update. Took my cutting to a garden center and they had little hope that it would bloom. It seems that it was a bit more shriveled than I thought (I had only had it a week - and it was in the water only 3 days). As of now it is sitting in soil after using the root accelerator powder. Oh well. It was only $2.

Thanks for your help and if it DOES do well, I'll certainly be posting here!

Donna

Hey Donna,

Sometimes when you take a cutting to a nursery and they might not see Plumeria cuttings that often, they might give you the look like it might not make it. But who can tell? I have had some that i was going to give up on and they rooted...

Dont give up on your cutting just yet. If you can give it some bottom heat and as much light as possible, this will help your cutting quite a bit. You did the right thing to use roottone and pot up in a fast draining mix. Again, bottome heat will really help..

Plumeria take time to root, especially this time of the year. Leave it alone and dont keep picking it up to see if the roots are forming or poking around in the soil. These roots are so fragile and they could break so easily. Rooting can take 6-8 weeks and sometimes longer in the winter.

Keep trying and check around the forum this spring to see if anyone has some cuttings they are willing to share. Most of us will start trimming im late March... You just might find some around here or there : )

Take care,

Laura

I have several Plumeria in pots but they have only one central trunk with several branches at the very top. I have to bring them inside for the winter as I live in Las Vegas, NV and it gets to cold in the winter. I have them in a mostly shaded spot and bury them in the ground outside in their pots for the hot 105+ weather for the summer. My problem is they are getting to tall to easily bring inside and then back outside but I am afraid if I just lop off the top to make it shorter the plant will die. Can someone please tell me the best way to make it shorter or do I just have to have it get taller and taller. If it had forks lower it would be easier but they are all right at the top which also makes it very top heavy.

Hi Trish! Depending on what you feel comfortable with...

Cut the top part off with the multiple tips and re-root it. Then you would also have the bottom part which is rooted, with no tip on it - cut it down shorter and then branches will start to grow out of old leaf nodes below the cut. It's not going to be pretty for a while but it should live and will then be a more manageable height.

You could try "downgrafting" - basically cutting out a chunk of the center and grafting the top and bottom back together.

If you decide to move forward with either of those, feel free to start a new thread with what you'd like to do and we can walk you through it!

I have planted several cuttings from Plumeria straight from the tree into the ground. It was news to me that you at supposed to wait 7-14 days? I must have gotten lucky because the tree is huge and gorgeous. My question is, why must you wait for a scab and do you have to use root hormone?

You don't have to, but most people wait to minimize the chances of rot.

I have also plunged them immediately and without hormone. I really only concern myself with these things when I'm rooting indoors or in a pot. I root outside now, and don't bother anymore.

I have a small plumeria I planted last summer, that has yet to bloom. It has only two branches and when I planted last year, both branches had leaves. This year, only one branch has leaves. Can I cut (trim) the other branch so that hopefully it will start to leaf?

What does the other branch look like? First off some varieties don't bloom for a few years. Repotting can postpone blooming for instance. Had it gown taller since last year?

I currently have one tree that took 2 years after I transplanted it to bloom. It is currently blooming, but the leaves have not yet opened up. I am not worried. In So. CA we have had such strange weather this year I think that may have something to do with it.

My one question would be, are you sure it is rooted? I have seen plumeria for sale and you pull gently at the base of the plant. If it is rooted, you will feel resistance, if not rooted, it will pull right out.

If both branches look ok, I would give it some time. If the one without leaves has a black tip, then I would cut back to where the latex oozes freely and leave it alone. Branches will form by the cut end.

FYI branches normally appear when the plant blooms.

Wow, I've learned so much just from reading the old posts. This is my "Jenny". She's three years old, and bloomed last year. This was taken early this Spring, and now all three branches have lots of leafs and are all blooming. This is her 2nd bloom year.

She was given to me as an 8 inch cutting, by my friend Jenny. Hence the name.

I live in Dallas, TX. Is it too late to do a cutting now? Is so, when is the best time to take one? She's almost too big to bring in. This will probably be the last year I can bring her in at her current height.

Thanks so much for the wealth of information.

It depends on your weather. I have made cuttings in November (usually those are the ones my puppy has volunteered to"cut" for me. Here in zone 9, our winters are usually mild. I have had some varieties blooming past Christmas! If you have cooler winters, you could pot the cuttings and move them into the garage where they will go dormant for the winter. Then when the spring arrives, your cuttings should wake up as well.

Thank you. That is truly helpful.

I bought 4 plumeria cuttings while visiting Orlando last week. The guy told me to take them home and put them in sand for 2 months, put them in the sun and do not water until leaves begin to sprout.... I told him I lived in Atlanta and he said there was plenty of time for me to do this before putting in the garage for the winter. I don't know, it will get cool before 2 months. is there a way to leave them dormant now, or should I go ahead and plant them in sand? Also, I had to send them home with my sister, so they spent another week without immediately getting them in sand (I fly home).... do you think they stand a chance of surving?