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Cutting a Plumeria

Posted by zoanne_hydro 9b (My Page) on
Thu, Oct 26, 06 at 13:57

Good morning. I am currently growing a plumeria plant hydroponically in my office which I rooted in May 2005. Wookey has grown from a 3 pointed stick into a long legged, 7 foot radius beast and as of today, Wookey has not bloomed.I am wanting to cut him back and root the tops, but unfortunately I am unsure of how to do this without killing each one. Any advice to a beginner? I would like to plant the tops directly into dirt after I cut him down.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Wait until Wookey wakes up in March. If you cut about 6" from where the branches join the stem, new branches will grow from the end of the 6" stem, but they will not flower that season. The branches that have been cut at a 45 degree angle should be left to dry about a week, then dipped into a solution of B-1 and water or Superthrive and water, or both and then dipped into a rooting compound with a fungacide so the power dusts the cut and up three inches of the branch. Plant into a one gallon black plastic pot into fast draining soil (often cactus mix or supersoil mixed with pumice or perlite at about 50/50) water once with the B-1 or superthrive solution. Put on warm concrete or on a warm seed mat. Leave it. In two months, when it puts out leaves, begin to water with B-1/superthrive water but let it dry out (water every 5-10 days depending on how hot it is.) In two weeks give it a half dose of a high phosphorus fertilizer and in 14 days a full dose continuing full doses every 14 days (plumies need phosphorus to flower) throughout the summer. Stop about a month before your weather begins to cool down to let the plant harden up for dormancy. Also, after you cut the branches, I would wait a day and then cover the cuts on the main plant with a tan tub and tile sealant which protects the cut and looks good. Many people do nothing to the cuts, but many long time growers use paint, spackle or sealant to lower the odds of fungus or bug invasion in the area. I have used all three and like the sealant best because it stretches as the plant grows and looks better. Bill


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Bill,yours is probably the best information I've seen for rooting cuttings.So I have another question for you.About a week and a half ago a neighbor had me cut back her huge plumeria tree.A very old very mature tree.She gave me the branches/cuttings.They are around 48" and some have three long tips.Should I or can I cut the tips for cuttings to root and then cut the branches in half and also root them?I have them sitting in a pot of sand and another group sitting in a pot of perlite/soil mix.These are wonderful cuttings that I don't want to loose.Thanks in advance for you expertise.DJ


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

First, cut all the leaves off the cuttings about a half inch from the stem. You can start large multi limb cuttings or cut them up. If cutting up, make your cuts about 6"above where the branch splits. Large stems can be cut just mark which way is up or notice that the leaf scars smile so you plant the stem right side up. I seal any top cuts and let bottom cuts harden over. I would store in a cool dry place until April and then plant. Also after about 3-4 days you should be able to flick the leaf stems off with your hand. Make sure to clean all off at stem level and remove any small leaves at the top. If left, these can easily rot or start fungus. Unless you have a greenhouse, starting a cutting now is rarely successful and rot is highly likely. Without leaves, the plant is dormant and needs NO water and without roots it needs no soil. A note: encourage fellow plumie growers to prune in late March or early April and they will be able to better shape the plant and the cuttings will have a higher success rate. Also your stem cuttings will take longer to root but will become strong plants. A large cutting should be held stable with chunks of styrofoam cut to fit from the pot edge to the stem from two sides or two wooden stakes stapled to the outside of the pot on opposite sides so ties can be connected to the stem from two sides (or from three equal spots is better.) Hope this makes sense. Question if unsure. Bill


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Thank you Bill.Your information is appreciated and I will most likely try to hold them over 'til March.Do you think they should be kept in the pots I mentioned before?I have them sitting in a pot of sand and another group sitting in a pot of perlite/soil mix.DJ


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Thank you Bill.Your information is appreciated and I will most likely try to hold them over 'til March.Do you think they should be kept in the pots I mentioned before?I have them sitting in a pot of sand and another group sitting in a pot of perlite/soil mix.DJ


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

It will not hurt but you can just lay them down on a towel, Since there is no water and light plus heat, the plant will do basically nothing. If there is any moisture in the soil you will encourage rot. I label any cuttings from the fall so I know what it is in spring. I have my plants listed by number as I got them and have that written in a journal where I keep notes on what I have done in the garden. i can just write the number with a paint pen on the cutting about 4-5" from the bottom cut. this cuts down on the error of giving someone a "pink pearl" which turns out to be a Guillot's sunset. Bill


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Wow Bill, thank you so much! I feel much more confident now. I appreciate your taking the time to be so informative. And hopefully I can keep you posted with good news! Take care.


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hi Bill,
I have a plumeria that is in the ground but has grown a small 4ft stem (3")
and a 3 poined branch thats 6ft tall. I'm worried the branches are going to snap. Should I clip the branches. I sincerely appreciate your opinion.
Mark


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

One thing you can do is buy a ten foot link of conduit at Home Depot and drive it into the ground next to your plant. You can cut it or be optimistic that in ten years your plant will tower over the pole. Now using plastic plant tie (comes in rolls like masking tape- I like the wide) You tie up your plant to the pole and then pull the branches upward. You can pull until taught and then stop so not to snap the branch. A week later you can add a little more bend. This supports the plant and branches until they thicken and support themselves. As time goes you just move up the pole. I first used wood poles but the termites found them and they snapped and had to be replaced. Zone 10- are you in Cal or Fla and what city area. Hope this helps- I have some pics or can take some.


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hello Bill,
A plumeria tree in the botanic gardens at UCLA broke and blew over during the high Santa Ana winds here in LA. I inquired about it, and then it was given to me. It is too large for my balcony so I want to turn it into a few plants. I think it broke over the weekend when the winds were strong and now has a very jagged and dried out end. It is about 7ft tall and has three major branches and 20 tips which all have mature and baby leaves. One tip has buds and blossoms. The whole thing looks to be in very good shape. My balcony faces east and has sun for the first half of the day. I will follow the advice you gave above, but I am wondering whether you have any additional advice for me.
Thank you,
Lea


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RE: Rooting a cutting

I planted a Puu Kahea cutting about 4 weeks ago, not much has happened except I've noticed little moist red bumps where leaves used to be on the stalk. The tip of the cutting is very dry and dark, nothing is happening there.Is this cutting going to work? I have read up on how to root and think I did everything I was supposed to?? Help


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Hi Bill,
Sounds like you know your way around a Plumeria, so I thought I could ask a quick question. We just inherited large, heavy cuttings from an established tree with 1.5-2 in diam. branches and a 3-4in base. There are multiple offshoots, and when planted will stand about 3-4 ft tall. What success do you project with such a large cutting and how do you suggest we proceed. Should we plant one large cutting or break it down? How deep into the soil do we plant and should we break the bark at the base to help establish the rooting? Thanks for your help - Kristie


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

With very large cuttings that have multiple branches, I generally take a plastic bottle for most a 1.5L water bottle. I cut off the top where it curves and drill a few holes in the bottom. I put in a few inches of soil mix. Then I soak the cutting stem in about 2" of water and B-1 and or superthrive and or seaweed extract (I use all 3) and soak over night. The next day I dip or brush rooting hormone with fungicide on the bottom and up 2-3 inches. I center the stem in the plastic bottle and fill around it with soil up to about 3-4 more inches. I pour the water solution through the bottle and then stand it in a larger pot or tie it to a pole to hold it upright where it will be dry. I do not water until leaves come. Large cuttings take longer but they are instant trees. In sandy soils or in hawaii you can just stick them in the ground but make sure it stays dry until the roots get established otherwise = rot. The stem has water stored for rooting and early leaf formation.
Lea- sorry I did not see your question in Oct. but this and the above info is good for your situation. Hope you got your plants started. Bill


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Hi Bill, I really, really need a lot of help!!! First: my dormant plumeria has rot all the way up except for two and half inch--last week, I cut it, wet the bottom and dipped it in root hormone, I put it in a small plastic cup with moistened cactus mix. Is it o.k to put it on my east exposure window while there is sun and then move it to my south exposure window ? I don't have any lights or heated mats.
Second: about three weeks ago, I received two cuttings from Maui Gardens, one is Lei Rainbow which had a claw of leaves on the top, the other is a "mystery cutting" with nothing on. The weather here,San Francisco Mid-Peninsula, at night has been in the 50s and windy, so I have been taking them inside and setting them on top of the 'fridge'. Can you let me know what else I can do?
Thanks.


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

fancyorchid- You have done your best. It is really important to squeeze the bottom part of your plants in the early spring and even stick your finger a half inch into the soil and squeeze. If you do not notice rot until it is near the top of your plant, the remaining top part can but most likely will not make it. Remember the stem of a plumeria is like a water tank, so the plant can go a long way with no water and longer with occasional misting. Also, some cactus mixes are too moist and need to be blended with pumice or perlite to dry them quickly. I love Jack Morgan's mix but I have to buy bales and huge bags and to use up the four bags (Big R, Turf-n-Tee, Pumice and Perlite) I end up with about 120 gallons of mix. Not practical for the two dozen plant growers. As Karen B. discovered, an inexpensive moisture meter, from most garden centers, can save you much grief. Water and then wait until the meter hits dry. What looks dry is often still moist below where the roots are forming. For those of you that can't leave a plant alone while rooting, you can run your finger around in inside edge of the pot to make a small moat. Put water in here only so the center where the plant is remains dry. Some moisture will wick slightly toward the center to attract the roots but the stem will stay dry and free from rot. Remember a rooting plant is not treated the same as a rooted plant coming out of dormancy. The rooted plant is watered when the tip shows color and then allowed to dry before next watering. The rooting plant is water once and then left to look for water. Hope this helps. Bill


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Bill, you know so much about plumies and how to avoid problems, you should have your own forum! : ) What fungicide do you prefer to use? Thanks
Jennie


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

I just use some cheap spray from Home Depot or Armstrong Nursery. I think it is more important to put rooting compound with fungicide up to the ground level when planting. I am not sure the fungicide really stops an established rot. Some plants make it and others just keep rotting to the ground. Jennie- thanks for the comment, but I only found the internet garden web in 06 when I retired, so I already had a decade of "well that didn't work- another death" Thanks to many collector friends, I learned some of the tricks and experimented with others. I enjoy helping others not have so many plumie grave markers as I have had on the road to flowers. There is untold joy in seeing your babies in full flower and knowing you battled nature to bring them to this point. It is what makes a plumieaholic. Bill


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RE: growing plumeria in Pennsylvania

Hello,
could you pls give me pointers for growing plumies in Phila area? i have one in a container indoors for about 4 years now; good indirect light. Puts out leaves, then stems droop and leaves fall off. Has been holding at about 2ft for a couple of years now. Want to try something different this year. appreciate advice....Joyce.


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Mike in Mass. and Karyn and Dave in Va. have more knowledge in indoor prep. I live in Calif and my plants are outdoors all year. Hope one of them will assist you.


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After reading most f the postings on cutting Plumeria will the same hold true in North Central Texas. Cutting in March? I bring my plants in for the winter and have very good luck. They will keep their leaves except for one or two. I have never fetilized my plants I was told to use a high phospharus fetilizer 10-50-10. Does this souns right.


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

I think just as the plant shows signs of coming out of dormancy (color change in tops and start of claw growth) is a perfect time to cut. After a few days wait, the planted cutting wants to take off. Bottim heat is very important for this to happen. If because of weather you wait until summer to plant, you can cut in February and just store the cuttings until planting. I use a paint pen and mark a number that indicated the variety about 5" up from the bottom. This prevents the "oh no, what the heck was this one." There is much discussion about the pros and cons of high phosphorus fertilizers and whether they do promote blooms or cause soil damage. I do not use them but I am not certain of what the right answer is because I have not seen any scientific studies. At Kimi's Plumeria you can read a great argument against them by Jack Morgan and in many books are statements for. I think logically a higher nitrogen is good in spring and for young plants and high potassium is good in the late summer to harden plants for winter, but that late spring answer is not clear to me. Hope this helps. Bill


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria- Help

Hello!! I have tried several times to grow plumeria, usually from these little $5 cuttings. Every time something happens, like my husband mows over it or my kids brake it and it turns into like mush. This time a bought one in a pot from Home Depot- it has not really grown much. But I have been trying to keep it alive...Well today my cat knocked it over and I have a jagged stick in a pot and a piece that looks like a water stick. Is there any thing I can do to save either piece??


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

trim off the top of the part still in the soil so it is a clean cut and let it dry. You can coat it with spackle or tub and tile sealant. Pour a small amount of water around the outside edge of the pot so the soil next to the stem remains dry. Put it away until March. In March, water it an hope it starts growing. The broken branch can be clean cut two and then stored in a cool but not cold place until March when you plant it as a cutting and hope it takes. Good luck.


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I just made my first cutting from my late father-in-law's plumeria. I wanted to know if I can plant the cutting immediately in soil. I'm really new to this plumeria growing so any tips would be appreciated!


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hi, Victor--just make sure you let the cut end dry out, or callus, at least a week before you put it into potting mix. (I've read of people who give the ends even more time to dry out before planting to be sure the end won't rot. The link below about rooting center cuts mentions 1 month or more.)

Use a fast-draining soil mix, bury the bottom three inches in it, water once and put in a sunny, warm location. Then forget about it; should start to leaf out in a couple of months. When it has four good-sized leaves, then water again.

Here is a link that might be useful: So Cal Plumeria Society


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hi:

I'm a new plumeria owner, I bought a dormant cutting about 2ft long in the shape of a Y that is not rooted. The plant was inserted into very moist soil for over a week and I was worried about root rot, I also noticed that the squishy white inside had receded a couple inches up. I misread the directions for rooting and instead of marking it at 4in, I CUT it at 4 in. Now, I understand that I should let it dry out for a week (or more), my questions are: should I wash off the roo-ting hormone powder or just leave the poor thing alone? Is a week long enough to wait for that size of plant to heal? After I plant it, how long should it take for a new plant that size to root and get leaves? I'm in Austin TX. Thanks for any help!!


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hi Kathleen, I'm also in Austin--did you get your cutting at the recent Garden Festival in town?

If your cutting was already very long (2ft is a very good size) then it probably won't miss the four inches you cut off. Rooting hormone with fungicide is beneficial but not necessary. I would let the fresh cut dry out at least a week then pot into a black plastic pot, with cactus or other fast-draining mix, water once and put it into full sun and leave it alone until it puts out a few 4-inch leaves, then you can water it a little.

When we still had cool nights I put several new cuttings out that had dried a week, which I thought was enough, but when I checked one it had started rotting so after pulling them all I discovered that about half the cuttings had soft ends, so in cooler temps the drying time may need to be much longer for a good callus to form. Now that the nights are warm and days hot here it shouldn't be such an issue but much better to err on the dry side when rooting cuttings. I re-cut and re-potted them into dry soil and now they are starting to claw out, and these were all under one-foot long cuttings so with your bigger one hopefully you'll see good results.

Jen


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hi Kathleen,

I am going to make a move to San Antonio and I am living in Los Angeles right now. I am planning on moving my 60 different color collection with me and would like to the the places that sell Plumeria right now in the Austin or San Antonio area that you are aware of. If you know of any places please email me at johnsplumeria@yahoo.com Thanks,


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hi!

Thanks for the advice, I got my plant at a garage sale in Hyde Park so I'm not sure of sellers, except for a nursery called It's About Thyme, they are really nice and sell cuttings. I measured mine last night and it's actually closer to 3 ft tall. I'm a little worried though, I saw a plumeria rooting in a neighbors yard and it was green and beginning to sprout, mine is more brown with a tint of green. I'm hoping that it's because mine is still dormant? I have a 12" pot to put it in, will that work with the size tree I have? I'm also hoping that my root-ting hormone powder isn't hindering the drying out process. I left it on because it's powdery, what do ya'll think? Thanks so much


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Johnny, there's a link below to a specialty grower in the Austin area. Most of the nurseries around here will have NOIDs only. Milton Pierson had a place north of here but closed up and moved back to Houston a few years ago, and other than that I don't believe there are any other places that will have named varieties.

Kathleen, if your cutting is big and was taken early spring that's a very good thing; the trunk is probably brownish because it's mature and yes, your neighbor's is growing now so it will be greener at the tips. All-green cuttings generally won't root. It's big enough at 3 feet to cut in two and make two plants. Use no bigger than a 1-gallon pot because the moisture will be easier to regulate in a small pot. Lots of folks even use 1-liter clear water bottles with holes in the bottom and the top cut off, set into a heavier container to keep them from blowing over. The clear plastic then lets you see the roots forming.

Rooting hormone won't hinder it drying out. Just leave it somewhere with good airflow and shade and after a week try potting it again in the small pot. Good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: Aloha Plumerias


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Great advice Bill.

An additional question for you.

As is: I have a Plumeria that I have had in a small half gallon pot for 10 years. I havent taken care to let it grow much and is straight at 3 feet in height with no branches. It has just started to show a few inch long leafs at its tip for the season.

Question: I would like to repot it and have found great advice. But I am thinking about cutting it as well in order to force branching lower in the stem. The stem is also thinner in the lower part of the stem than the upper part (17 mm at lower and 23 mm at upper). Can I/should I cut it? Can I do it at the same time that I repot it? How high up the stem should I cut it?... Any advice is much appreciated. :)

/Micke


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Thanks Jandey, thanks for the site and the information. I hope to get my collection down to San Antonio soon. I just need to get my greenhouses built before winter. If you live in that area maybe we can stay in touch. You can email me at johnsplumeria@yahoo.com.


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I just received a 6 in cutting from my mother-in-law (Dallas) that already has leaves on it. Do I need to let it dry out for a week or so before potting it? I wasn't sure since it already has leaves. I'm in Oklahoma City.
Anne


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I just bought 3 very healed plumeria cuttings and they told me I should put them in a couple inches of water for about 2 weeks. I've not heard of this before. What would be the reason for this?


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Micke- sorry I missed this post. First your plant is probably very root bound. I would remove the root ball, unwind some of the roots and cut into many of them with a razor or sharp knife, and plant it in at least a 5 gallon pot. Let it get reestablished for a season before you cut it. You may find it does much better and might flower. You can then cut it and let the top half harden before planting it as a cutting.
lauri 9- water rooting is a tricky business. I have soaked cuttings in water for about a week and then planted, water once and left it to finish rooting. You can root in water but the roots are often very weak and can be hard to adjust to soil.
Anne- sorry, a bit late to help. It is better to put a new post as often ones attached to old posts don't get seen.


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Anne, I think your question got lost in this post, but if you read this, Yes, they do still need to dry out at least a week and the leaves need to be trimmed off except for a couple and the center claw.

Lauri, it sounds like water-rooting is what the person was talking about. Water-rooting works for some varieties, but is not usually recommended. However, if that is what worked for the giver for that variety, you may want to try it on one and pot the other two up in the traditional fast-draining medium, water once and forget until you see 4" leaves.

Jen


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

  • Posted by babyg Snst 24 USDA 10 (My Page) on
    Tue, Jun 28, 11 at 15:15

Bill - I followed your potting advice to pot two plumeria sticks I brought back from Hawaii last summer. I used volcanic rock and styrofoam cutout to stabilize in a (clay) pot and put it on a hot roof. One died, the other survived and bloomed like crazy over the winter ...indoors...the same year!

Now... what the heck do I do?

It's still in the starter pot with volcanic rock. It has two spots of growth, and sent up two big mis-shapen leaves, one of which has fallen off.
Do I repot it? If so, in to what? And how?
Do I keep it inside or outside in my loft building's garden area?


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babyg- one of the problems with using roofs is that they get very cool at night. In the day they are fine but at night they cool too quickly. I had this problem once too. In the future you should use warm concrete as it radiates heat into the evening. If you rooted in only volcanic rock you are lucky to have one plant. The plants need a soil that is fast draining. In So. Cal we use redwood compost, ground bark, pumice and perlite. Around the country they usually start with a cactus mix and add items to help it dry quickly. Another post near this discusses the mixes. Put it outside on warm days so it gets as much sun as possible and bring in if the nights are below mid fifties. Do not overwater as the plants need to dry out between waterings. Plants can stay in a pot until they blow over in the wind so a two foot plant can be moved from a one gallon to a three and a four foot plant to a five gallon and a six foot plant to a 7 gallon. These are rough estimates as all plants do not grow alike. Fertilize now and through the summer but stop in the early fall to let the plant harden for winter. Good luck. Bill


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Lauri 9,

When I read you post I got a different meaning from it than Bill and Jen got. It seems to me that since your cuttings are very healed, the seller wants you to put them into a couple of inches of water for 2 weeks FIRST, and then pot it up as usual. That way the heal can absorb some water and rehydrate faster than it would if you just stuck it in the pot.

In doing so, you should be able to speed up the rooting process. That is my interpretation.


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  • Posted by babyg Snst 24 USDA 10 (My Page) on
    Wed, Jul 6, 11 at 15:14

Thanks Bill, so I'm still unsure what to do now.

MEDIUM. It's been almost a year since I potted it, so I'm not sure, but I think it's got BIG red chunks of red volcanic rock, mixed with cactus mix, ...I think. Do you think it's ok to leave it in that mix for now? Or should I repot it in the same size pot and different medium until it's two feet tall

LOCATION. I moved it outside. I live in an apartment building...If it's not on the roof, I have no control over the watering schedule, because of the sprinkler system. I put it on a second inverted clay pot that drains over soil, because the building waters EVERYTHING every night at dusk automatically, and I wanted it to drain. Should I move the inverted pot over the cement instead for heat? It's hot here. Do you think it's okay where it is? It's protected there from other residents, dogs, etc.

It's 60-73 at night, and 70-95 during the day. My little garden is protected by walls on four sides, gets light all day, and gets sprinked at dusk.


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Bill you are a God send...just reading the past questions has helped. I am now up to 108 in Ventura and want more...I had a seed pod in '05 and sprouted 25 very viable plants and some are now starting to bloom. Do I understand correctly that after 3 years of photos I can register and name them? A few seem unique on smell and form...but you have heard that before I am sure...thanks, roxanne


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

I do not change soil mix until the spring. You can change after any hope of flowering is passed. Your plant is ok as long as it is hot but if it cools I would drape a plastic sheet over it when the sprinklers come on and only let it water once a week or so.
roxanne. I do not know about registering a plant as I have been lax in this area. My "Sherry" is my favorite seedling but it is not official.


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hi Bill. I recently received a plumeria cutting from my mother's neighbor whose plant was top heavy and broke off. I let it scab over for a week and planted it today. I would like to know if I should prune it and cut off the flower stalks to promote rooting or if it will root with the stalks on it. If I do need to cut it, what is the proper way to do that? Also, I live in south orange county, california so will my plumeria ever go dormant? When should i stop watering because it usually stays warm here through december. Thanks in advance!
-Susie


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Susie- prune off all the leaves and any inflos (flower stalks), place the pot on hot concrete, mist the branches often but do not water again until you have 6" leaves. Almost all plumies will go dormant between Nov and Feb in this area (I am in Costa Mesa). Bottom leaves will yellow and drop off first. It may take several months to root and this is as late as I would try in So. Cal. You may just cut the inflo and leaves at where it comes out from the branch. Bill


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Bill, congrats on your seedling Sherry! It is beautiful!!! Any chance you've kept track of who the parents were?


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

mom= Cindy Moragne:

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Father (maybe)=J.L.Pink Pansey:

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I wonder why "sherry is such a beauty..." I know why!!!

She is "the Beauty" ....of all Plumies..I agree with you Bill!

Sherry is a winner!!!! Inside and out!!!!

Take care and great advice too all of the above posters....you are the best!!!

Take care everyone,

Laura in VB


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

  • Posted by labland Inland Valley CA9 (My Page) on
    Mon, Aug 29, 11 at 11:29

Bill,

I agree with Laura, beautiful blossom!


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Bill, your "Sherry" is to DIE for!!! I would have never guessed that those two were the parent plants. How many seedlings did you grow to get that beauty? Gives us all hope that we might get a beauty too from a seedling. And I thought they were just for root stock for grafting. Peg


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Peg- I grew 50 seedlings of which I kept 3. Most looked somewhat like Cindy M and a few had some color but I kept the Sherry and:
Monique:

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William:

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I still have about 6 that have not flowered (8 years).


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Wow Bill, I don't think I'd have the patience or space to grow 50 seedlings and then wait up to 8+ years to see what I got. You are a saint for sure. Of course you did end up with some beauties as a reward. Plumies will teach you patience. Thanks for the info. Peg


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Hi, I have plumeria that has grown so large that it's blocking my walkway.....can I cut off that particular branch and replant as a cutting? I'm in Riv. CA. Thank you for your help.


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

I would wait until February to cut if you want to plant the top. Now you might not get roots in time. Cuttings made in Feb have a best chance of rooting in mid spring.


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

A friends tree just lost a 7 ft. branch that is a Y shape with many small flowering branches. I live in S. California, zone10, and want to know if it's to late in the season to start this cutting, and can I grow it as a cutting, or do I have to make it a lot of smaller cuttings? I'd like to plant it as a tree and not have to wait many years to get to a 7 ft. tree if possible. Also don't want to loose it, so am willing to do what ever it is. I've cut it at a 45 and that's all so far. Thanks ahead of time for the help. : )


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

  • Posted by qaguy Sunset 21/LosAngeles (My Page) on
    Sun, Sep 11, 11 at 21:46

I'd stick it in the garage or other cool place intil
spring. Read the Cutting in Sept thread.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cutting in Sept


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

I have planted and nurtered a cutting for 3 years and finally my tree is getting ready to bloom. However my tree grows straight up and is about chest high. There are no branches on it. When and how will the tree branch out? Thanks for your help.


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Babyfeets, after it sends out the flower stalk and that matures a bit with several blooms, you'll notice at least one, maybe up to four new "claw" or leaf clusters around the base of the flower stalk. Those are the beginnings of new branches.

Like this:
3 new tips on single trunk NOID

We'd love to see pics of your new blooms when you get them!


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hello, I just purchased three cuttings from a nursery in Hawaii. They were all cut a week ago. I was hoping to pot these up today, but after reading all of the great information on this forum I feel I may have to wait at least a week or two so they develop more of a callus? I have a greenhouse and keep the temp at 68-71 One is a canopy cutting with 9 tips, the stem is 1.5" in diameter. I do have a heating mat as well.

Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

I would wait even another week since they are so freshly cut before potting up. When you do, use a nice, light, fast-draining mix and your heating mat. The big one may be your best bet for rooting, and will do well with a good solid stake to keep it from jiggling. Good luck!


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Thank you for the super quick response!! I am go glad I checked this forum today. Greatly appreciate your assistance!

Best regards,
Andrea


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hi Everyone,

What a great thread...this is where i first started reading about how Bill gave suggestion about "wookey" LOL... this was the very first thread that i clipped to save.

Thanks Bill for all of you time and patience with all of us. You have really taught us so much on how to take care of our trees.

This threads brings back a huge smile to me .. I wonder how "wookey' is doing?

We all need smiles.....i know i do!!!

Take care,

Laura


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Plumeria is getting soft

Hi
I got plumeria cuttings last summer and followed advice from this forum on how to get them established. I brought them in this fall when the weather was getting cool and they have been doing fine. I have backed off on watering, they are still in their pots, but now the top 1/2 in is soft. Thoughts on the cause or what I should do so I don't lose them? Thanks!


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hi Mona.
Most plumeria will start to dessicate if there not getting some water. If you think about it, even in they were growing wild in nature, there isn't any situation that I can think of where they wouldn't get some water.

Is it possible to post a picture? Without really seeing what's going on, I would say just give it a little bit of water. Maybe a half cup? Just enough for those tips to rehydrate and plump up again. Sadly, I lost a rooted plumeria cutting recently because I didn't pay attention to how much it was dessicating.

I hope this info helps you.

Andrew

Hi Laura,

I know exactly what you mean. I refer to Bill as the Plumeria Godfather! LOl...I know there are so many others here that know tons about growing plumerias!

I have to ask....what(or who) is whookey?

I still have some "goodies" for you come spring. I was VERY upset that both JJ 'Jenny' cuttings didn't take, and then to lose the mother tree! NOT HAPPY ABOUT THAT!

Take care and cannot wait to talk with ya again,
Andrew


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Heyy Andrew,

"Wookey" is the OP named tree that they were asking about. Bill refers back to "wookey" as he is giving advice to the Original Poster...LOL

I wonder how is "Wookey" is doing now?

That would be fun to find out...I dont see that poster on here anymore...

How are you doing Andrew?

You all had some snow yesterday and today? Ugggg... glad im off for a few days!!!

Take care.

hope to chat soon!

Laura


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Laura I am so glad you bumped up this thread. I was just wondering how to take cuttings, from my 3 oldest plants. I know that Bill said to cut them 6 inches from where they Y. My question is how long do the cuttings need to be? I want to make sure I have decent cuttings to offer in the spring. So how long do the cuttings need to be, and do they need to be cut at an angle? Barbra


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hey Barbara,

I have always liked this thread!!!

"Wookey" always makes me chuckle...

Lots of great information to read on this one and Bill gives some great advise to everyone on taking cuttings and how to start them as well.

Bill said that the cuttings cut from the bottom Y area should be at least 6 inches (again from the Y) or split.
How long does that leave the rest of the cutting if you give 6 inches to leave on the original stem? If it only gives you a cutting of 6 inches or less, i would not cut. I would cut only if the new cutting could be 8 inches or longer before i would consider to take a new cutting. IMO of course!!! Your cutting can be as long as you want!! : )

Bill had mentioned before that he has had huge cuttings that he has rooted into auto trees!!! LOL It all depends on how much you need to trim from your tree. When i trim mine this March, The first thing i look for is how long is the cutting and why do i feel the need to take a cutting. If it has already bloomed for me and i have another stem that is just as long, then i will probably take the cutting from the limb that has flowered so that i will possibly see a bloom from the other stem that has not.
We all like to cut at a 45* angle when prunning a tree. This goes for any tree that you would prune. (helps to prevent rot) Like Bill, wait for a day then seal the cut on the original tree. (Not the end of the cutting) Nature will naturally seal the end of the cutting. He likes to use Tub and Tile sealant. Some use other things. I have tried both and i had found that i like the Waterproof wood Glue to seal the ends on my trees. Everyone has something that they like.

I hope this helps!!

Laura


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Laura. where do you get the waterproof wood glue? A craft store, or at Lowes? I will make sure that the cuttings are at least 8 inches, or I will not cut them until next year. You are right this thread has so much valuable information. Barbra


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hi Barbra,

Here is a picture of the Wood Glue that i seal my Plumeria, DR's and some others that i prune.

The Wood Glue is By Elmer's..."WoodGlue Max" I did find it at Lowes : ) It also says "Waterproof and Stainable" on the bottle.

Take care,

Laura


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

ARGH! So, I guess that putting my cutting of plumeria into a glass of water was NOT the correct thing to do?????? It's only been in the glass a few days. Can I save it?

Thanks


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Donna, don't panic. It's probably fine, and some will root like that--my neighbor roots all her red and Celadine cuttings in a glass of water in a sunny window--but the most reliable method is in a fast-draining medium, watered once and then left alone.

It may take up to a few months, especially in winter/spring but it's your best bet. A heating mat will help it along, and so will lights and misting but they're not a necessity. A cutting that is robust and fresh is more likely to root for you in any case. Good luck.


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

My cutting, purchased from ebay for a mere $2, arrived a bit shriveled and dry looking. No instructions were included. I took it out of the glass of water, and wrapped a damp paper towel around it. Shall I cut off a piece of the end to allow water to be absorbed?

I do not want to hijack this thread, so I'll also look on Google.

Thanks!

Donna


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hi Donna,

IMO, I would NOT cut off the bottom of the stem. Then you would have to wait a week or so for it to callas up again. Leave it as is....

Jen gave you the best info on the cutting... Like she suggested, place on a heating mat inside a plastic bottle. Use a very fast draining mix and leave it alone. It could take 6-8 weeks for it to root especially this time of the year.

Here is another thread that we were talking about cuttings and other things. Good Luck on you Plumeria cutting.

Please let us know how it does for you.

The best advise we could give to you... get all of your things togather, heat mat, mix, bottle, then pot up the cutting about half way into the mix *(16 oz bottle) size firmly pack it in so it doesnt move around. Then water very lightly. Especially since yours was sitting in water. Then leave it alone. If you have a sunny window, that would be wonderful, if you have a grow light, that would be best. The key is to leave it alone and dont keep picking it up too see how it is doing. (We all have done this..) but it is a no no!!!

Dont worry about the thread... its alright to ask questions. The OP is nowhere to be found, but i would love to know how "Wookey" is doing : )

You can always start a new thread at the top of the Plumeria forum in the left hand side where is says "post a message"

Here is another link that you may find helpful..

Take care,

Welcome to the forum!!!

Laura

Here is a link that might be useful: Plumeria cane


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RE: More Info

Hi Barbra,

I noticed that my pic didnt show up on my bottle of glue, sorry! When i get home, i will send another!!!

Donna,

Here is another link that you may find useful. It cover lots of great information. Use what you can and then always ask questions if you dont understand something. That is why we are here. We are all learning...

Take care,

Laura

Here is a link that might be useful: Container Soils and Your Plants Nutrition


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Thanks! I am going to a garden center this weekend and will purchase the soil. How about food? Should I get that on Saturday as well (at least for the future)?

Donna


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hi, everyone. Just an update. Took my cutting to a garden center and they had little hope that it would bloom. It seems that it was a bit more shriveled than I thought (I had only had it a week - and it was in the water only 3 days). As of now it is sitting in soil after using the root accelerator powder. Oh well. It was only $2.

Thanks for your help and if it DOES do well, I'll certainly be posting here!

Donna


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RE: Cutting a Plumeria

Hey Donna,

Sometimes when you take a cutting to a nursery and they might not see Plumeria cuttings that often, they might give you the look like it might not make it. But who can tell? I have had some that i was going to give up on and they rooted...

Dont give up on your cutting just yet. If you can give it some bottom heat and as much light as possible, this will help your cutting quite a bit. You did the right thing to use roottone and pot up in a fast draining mix. Again, bottome heat will really help..

Plumeria take time to root, especially this time of the year. Leave it alone and dont keep picking it up to see if the roots are forming or poking around in the soil. These roots are so fragile and they could break so easily. Rooting can take 6-8 weeks and sometimes longer in the winter.

Keep trying and check around the forum this spring to see if anyone has some cuttings they are willing to share. Most of us will start trimming im late March... You just might find some around here or there : )

Take care,

Laura


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