It's about the numbers, not the name. If you aren't familiar with fertilizers, there should be three numbers separated by dashes (e.g. 10-10-10). Typically, plumeria growers favor a higher phosphorus number such as 10-50-10, but there are differing opinions. Also, most growers do not fertilize after a certain time, such as after September, because the trees are going dormant for the winter. Just in case you didn't know...

astrl

Hi Brian, like astrl said, opinions vary, and there are so many of them! That being said, here's mine :-). I have tried many things over the years, but after reading that many on this forum used Foliage Pro, I decided to give it a try last season. This year, I have had the most plants bloom, and they are still blooming. For me, FP has given great results.

If you're growing in the ground, anything you use w/o a soil test is a shot in the dark. One fertilizer isn't much more apt to be appropriate than another if you don't know what the starting point (what nutrient levels exist) or end goal is (how much of each nutrient you wish to end up with).

For containers, no recommendation changes the fact that plants use MUCH more N than P - about 6X as much. We also know with certainty that anything in the soil solution that isn't necessary, increases the salt level (EC/TDS) and has no potential to benefit the plant - only the potential to limit the plant (see Liebig's Law of the Minimum), with the degree of limitation depending on the severity of the imbalance. These are well known facts that make it impossible to explain why anyone should expect the use of high-P fertilizers to yield either a healthier plant, or a plant that blooms better.

Simply put, plants grow best when given exactly what they need, not by giving them massive amounts of something they don't need. Bloom profusion can be increased with a minimal reduction in vitality by reducing the amount of nitrogen the plant gets, which curtails vegetative growth, which in turn causes the plant to put more current energy production into reproductive growth (blooms/fruit). It's important to note, when we consider how much N a plant gets, that N delivery is a function of how much N a grower supplies, not the NPK ratios on the fertilizer container.

Al

I used foliage pro summer of 2013 and out of around 225 about 10 bloomed. Worst year ever. This year I went back to my 13-13-13 time release with minors at half the suggested amount so they would always have some food available and I alternated all summer with organic foods and I had tons of blooms. I used worm castings, fish emulsion, seaweed extract, Dr. Earth flower girl and Rocket fuel and they LOVED it and rewarded me with compact growth and blooms, blooms and more blooms. Foliage Pro also gave them elongated, lanky growth. I use Foliage Pro on my Palms sometimes and other plants that don't bloom to make sure they are getting all the minor elements they need. For my Hibiscus, Osmanthus, etc, I alternate with organics and Dyna Gro Grow formula, NOT foliage pro, Grow.

PP - Your post raises questions. Remember tripping yourself up a short while ago on the container gardening forum by telling everyone how poorly your plants did in the gritty mix in 2013, and I posted a copy of your post of Jul 22, 13 in which you commented how happy you were with the gritty mix?

â¢Posted by powderpuff 10 (My Page) on Mon, Jul 22, 13 at 18:08

"mrbutcher... Your tomato plants look great! I am in shock over that video and must show it to my husband!!! I found the products, including Pine Bark Fines. However, the bark inside the bags was wet so we had to spread a tarp and let it dry. Then sift it once to get the small pieces, then again to eliminate the dust and tiny particles. Then sift the grit and turface. Turface and grit are heavy, so he has to help me. It takes a lot to fill 5-7 gallon pots.
If I even mention gritty mix he glares at me since he's the one that has to load and unload 50# bags of grit and Turface and move the pots.

I love the mix [my emphasis] but in pots over 5 gallons it's just too heavy to be practical unless you are very young and/or a body builder and he is neither. Maybe if I show him what you did to get the mulch, he won't gripe so much. lol! I have potted over 100, most in 3-7 gallon pots and I'm out of the mix and some need re-potted.

When I mentioned that 4-5 needed to go into 10-15 gallon pots he said don't even think about using that mix for those.
The next day he came home with a yard of potting soil and put it in a big pile in a corner of the yard..... sigh.

He said you want those in 10-15 gallon pots, there is your soil. :("

If your plants did so poorly in '13 in the gritty mix and using FP 9-3-6 as you posted above, why would you say in late summer of '13 that you loved it, instead of complaining about your lack of success? This is the third time I've pointed out the same type of inconsistencies in your posts after noting similar inconsistencies on a number of previous occasions. You have even intentionally misquoted me in attempt to discredit my offerings. I'll offer an example if you like.

I get that you don't care for me, and I don't mind you trying to diminish me, I can handle that, but I think it's only fair that you are honest about how you go about it. By your account, you loved the gritty mix and 9-3-6 through the summer of '13, and even wanted to repot more plants using the same regimen, until hubby would no longer make the soil, and suddenly it was poison .... retroactively, by this account.

I apologize for pointing out such an obvious inconsistency, but you always seem to have a story ready that contradicts any offering of mine you happen to come across.

Al

This post was edited by tapla on Sun, Nov 30, 14 at 21:52

Al,
Let me share some Plumeria knowledge to your benefit. Most Plumeria growers know you can't determine a season's success until the following season is over. In other words, 2013 was the investment period for 2014's blooms. The most important statement is how well the plants did in 2014. NOT that someone loved this or that 5 months into a 10 month season which should not be judged a success or not for another 16 months. Please go back and read the post in this thread and hopefully you will understand the importance of the statement like the rest of us already do.

Fair enough? All this other stuff just isn't necessary.

So you're saying she has 13's regimen to thank for '14s stellar year?

Al

That is an accurate statement based on my experience. Just as the reported poor 2013 results were primarily due to conditions before that growing season started.

Generally speaking a plumeria will bloom on wood that is close to a year old. Sometimes less...sometimes more.

I have to agree with the kms2 about investing for the next year. I switched to Foliage Pro about mid season this year. I really didn't get any blooms except my mature plant that's 20 plus years was an insane bloomer. It has never looked like that. It was covered in flowers all summer and grew really thick. My younger plants looked beautiful and matured. Next year I hope to have blooms galore!

I also would agree that what we do in one season you will see the results the following year.. So what we did in 2013 we will see beautiful results in 2014 and what we did this summer we will see the results next season.

I really have great results with Foliage Pro and I'll continue with my practices!! My trees are very happy!!

Laura

So the poor results she claims in this post for 2013, but lauds in other posts for the same period, were actually due to her 2012 regimen, and the excellent 2014 results she describes were due her 2013 regimen, which was the gritty mix and FP 9-3-6. Thanks for helping me to clarify.

Al