Materials:

Root Hormone (I used powdered)
Healthy cuttings from a tree of your choice
Local soil (I haven't tried vermiculite yet)
Large pot
White plastic trash bag

Step 1: Attain healthy cuttings from a healthy tree. Remember to always ask permission if you are taking cuttings from someone else's tree. Try to aim for 4-8" cuttings for small trees (such as dwarf fruit trees), and 10-15" cuttings for large trees (such as oaks). Smaller trees will root faster. Try to cut cuttings off of the tree at 45 degree angles.

Step 2: Fill the pot up with soil, and moisten the soil with a sprayer. Create 8" deep holes in the soil for the cuttings. I would recommend no more than four cuttings in a pot with a top diameter of 14".

Step 3: Remove the bark off of the bottom 1/3 of the cutting. Put the bark-less part of the cutting into a glass of water for five minutes. Then, dip the bark-less part of the cutting into the rooting hormone, and GENTLY place it into the already-prepared hole. Try to space the cuttings evenly, and not too close.

Step 4: Gently firm the soil around the cuttings, and mist them. Then, place the pot in the white, plastic bag, and tie the top. I found it works well to gently mist the inside of the plastic bag, as well. Place the pot in place OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT. You may think you need sunlight to root the cuttings, but the sun will dry up the soil. The cuttings do not need to be in a completely dark place, but a medium between bright and dark would be nice.

Step 5: Mist the cuttings EVERY OTHER DAY unless the soil is visibly dry (you can tell this because the soil will crack when dry). Also, try not to water too much, because the cuttings will rot. Although it is tempting, do not remove the cuttings to check on them. Actually, don't look at them at all for the first two weeks (except when watering). Don't worry, they will let you know when their ready. After about a month, smaller trees will begin to grow small leaves and shoots.

It would be best to wait until the trees are big enough to survive the elements before you transplant them. So, in essence, don't put them outside at first sign of growth. Wait about three months after the first sign of growth to do this.

Good Luck!

Does one want new growth from the ends of the lower more horizontal limbs or new growth from the top where the limbs are more vertical?

There are many methods of propagation and some methods may be more successful than others on individual plants. You really need to do some research on which method is preferred by whatever you wish to propagate. Some shrubs prefer propagation from dormant, greenwood, softwood, hardwood cuttings. Some work well with layering, grafting.....well you get the picture. :) There are so many methods...

Two good books I own are The American Horticultural Society Plant Propation and The Plant Propagators Bible by Miranda Smith. In addition to showing the different methods of propagation they each have a listing that tells you what method is preferred by many different plants.

There are some shrubs and trees that are so *easy* to propagate, that you could use practically any method and they would grow roots. Some of these are forsythias, willows, dogwood shrubs, purpleleaf sandcherry, blue mist shrubs, butterfly bushes and lots more. All these will root using the method I described in the Butterfly Bush from Cuttings thread. (Which BTW, I've gone on to pot up into 3" pots now because they've grown a big enough root ball.

Here's a photo that shows 2 flats of Blue Mist Shrub cuttings. The right one are cuttings that have just been stuck in a flat of ProMix; the left are ones that were rooted earlier and have now been potted on into 3" pots. Blue Mist is a really easy one...from cutting to rooted plant took only about 6 weeks. I might add that I don't bag my flats but use a clear plastic dome to hold in humidity. I also use a heat mat-not absolutely necessary for many cuttings but very helpful. Obviously, I also have a greenhouse but you don't want to put cuttings in direct sunlight when they are rooting, just bright light. I placed the flats together on the bench for the photo.

2: It would be best to take the cuttings before any new growth (such as in winter or early spring). However, if you must take cuttings withe leaf growth, simply cut off the leaves and/or fruits, then just propagate them like normal.

Weigela is easy to root nanaclaire. Just take a lower branch and bend it down to the ground. Scrape some bark off of the branch and put rooting powder on it and cover that branch with soil where you put the powder. Put a brick on top to hold it down. Go back in about 3-4 weeks and check on it. You can just cut that limb and move your little plant then.

I'm new here, wishing I had read this before I pruned my Jiro persimmon tree about three weeks ago. I couldn't bear to throw the large branches I cut off the tree, so I stuck several of them into a bucket of rain water. Is there anyway to get new Jiro persimmons from these salvaged twigs and branches? I've never grown or propagated anything except from seed and little plants from the store, or else transplanted from another garden.

The tree was dormant when I pruned it a few weeks ago. The main tree is just now starting to leaf out. It is growing in the mid-atlantic region zone 7. Our temps here are between 40-70s'F. The tree blossoms are finished and now starting to leaf out.

Would these prunings be treated as hardwood cuttings? Any advice/suggestions for a newbie will be greatly appreciated. Could I use similar techniques to propagate my fig tree? Thanks!

THANK YOU