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mo_upstate

Dividing Salvia 'Black & Blue'

mo_upstate
14 years ago

I've been overwintering this plant in my basement for the past 2 years. Right now it has about 2 feet of weak, lanky top growth. It's roots are twisting around the container, and filling it up. I want / need to divide this plant, but have some questions:

1) How much top growth can I safely remove without killing the plant.

2) Should I also cut back the roots?

3) Can I plant the divisions outside now? (Zone 5)

My intention was to take cuttings from the mother plant, but 23 out of 24 of them wilted and died.

I would appreciate any help anyone can give me. Thanks.

Comments (9)

  • GawdinFever
    14 years ago

    It's considered an annual in all areas except zones 7-9. I wouldn't plant divisions until it warms up more and chance of frost is past.

    Inevitably the roots will have to be cut for the division, but I wouldn't cut any more than necessary. As far as the top growth, I would cut it back to about 6 inches.

    You could divide it now so the new roots could get a head start. Put them in a South facing window or under some lights.

  • mo_upstate
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Thanks for your help Gawdinfever. I'll divide this tomorrow.

    Would now be a good time to try cuttings again since I will be cutting off so much top growth? Anyone have any good suggestions for me? (I've never been able to successfully propagate by cuttings.)

  • GawdinFever
    14 years ago

    You could, but since you say the top is lanky growth from being inside, you might have better success after the plant is brought back to a healthy state and actively growing again.

    When you take your cuttings, are you using a rooting hormone?

  • mo_upstate
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    I've taken about 30 cuttings, and tried several different ways to get them to root. Some in tap water, some in distilled water, some in weak tea. Also used potting soil, rooting hormone, jiffy pellets, bottom heat, humidity domes, warm kitchen, cool basement, misting, etc. Then I tried different variations of the above.

    Pretty anal, huh? I have 1 cutting left alive - the one I put in an old Yoplait container in plain tap water with no bottom heat and no humidity dome!

    You made a really interesting comment Gawdinfever... it struck me that the only common demoninator I can come up with is that all the cuttings were taken off of weak winter growth, with the nodes spaced out about 5" apart. Do you think this could be part of my problem?

  • GawdinFever
    14 years ago

    I do. I myself, had experienced that.

    Also, some plants just root so much better when the plant is in the 'growth mode'.

  • calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
    14 years ago

    gawdenfever is correct. Using the weak cuttings as you have been doing is practically impossible to get any to root. Wait until your plant is producing stems with a stiffness to them before taking cuttings. Al

  • mo_upstate
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    The stems don't usually stiffen up until I move this plant outside in mid-May. I'll take some cuttings then.

    One last question... any idea when my May cuttings would actually bloom? (If it's not until September, I don't think I would bother.)

  • PRO
    Kaveh Maguire Garden Design
    14 years ago

    They have tuberous roots like a Dahlia and you can just let them go completely dormant in the winter when you bring them inside. They will start to grow again when you water them in late winter or spring.

  • Jane252
    12 years ago

    I have had great luck doing root cuttings. Just pot them
    up in good potting soil. Try to place them vertically
    in the pot,but they will grow even if placed horizontally.
    Keep them in a south window and keep the soil moist, but
    not wet

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