"Wisterias do not transplant well and usually suffer a severe setback if moved. Large specimens sometimes do not recover." Ohio State University

Had you considered starting your own from cuttings? Possibilities are "Softwood - side shoots with close nodes, hardwood cuttings, layering, root cutting taken in late winter potted and placed over bottom heat". Druse.

Joyce, I'm sorry...I read your post too quickly. Here are some specifics on taking the different type cuttings from wisteria...Why don't you try more than one method, then you'll surely have success!

"Root Cuttings & Suckers.
If the plant already has suckers growing around it, these can be dug up and planted separately. Alternatively if the plant is large but has no suckers some of the root can be dug up, removed from the plant and planted separately. The root piece removed s hould be at least a foot long with a caliper of half an inch or more. It should be replanted so that the top of the removed root is just below the soil surface. It will generate new buds and send up a new Wisteria shoot.

Remember root cuttings and suckers will produce new plants that are the same as the original plants roots. If the original plant was a seedling or a rooted cutting the new plants will be the same. However if the original plant was grafted the new root cut tings will not be the same as the original plant.

Layering
The easiest if not the quickest method for the home gardener who wants a new plant that is sure to be the same as the original. A long one year shoot that can be pulled down to soil level is needed. A portion of the shoot is buried in the soil, bu t with the shoot tip still above the soil line. The part of the shoot that is buried can be wounded with a sharp knife, (a slice of bark is removed). After a year the shoot can be cut away from the main plant as the part that was buried should have made i ts own roots. This can then be transplanted to a new location.

Softwood Cuttings
Some Wisterias root easily from softwood cuttings others do not. This method will work with some cultivars and not with others. Cuttings should be made from the new years wood in JUNE, July or August. The cuttings should be about 6" long with one or two l eaves, they should be nodal (the base of the cutting should be just below a leaf node.) They should be dipped in a rooting hormone with an IBA concentration of 0.5% to 0.8%. The cuttings should be stuck in a pot or flat of any good cutting compost. A clear plastic bag should then be put over the pot or flat and sealed. The whole thing can be left on a windowsill or greenhouse out of direct sunlight, if rooting is going to tak e place it will probably start within 4 to 6 weeks. It is important that the cuttings are sealed inside the poly bag to keep the humidity up and prevent them from drying out."

Good luck....

we moved into a house that had 3 wisteria "trees" crammed into corners by the foundation. one suffered root rot and could not be saved. the other two were given their own circles of peat and brought out into the light. they havent fully bloomed in three years yet but they are gorgous, thriving plants now because i moved them.

we're moving and i plan on moving them again to a more sunny yard where they will probably bloom in a few years.
i treat them more like a weeping rose trees and they seem to love it.

I planted a Wisteria bush 10 years ago. It has NEVER bloomed. Last year I pruned it back severely, but still, no blooms. Is it possible to have a type of Wisteria that does not bloom?... or is it lacking something else I can do?