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| I have not posted this propagation method in several years. Time for a repeat. Just a reminder that all cuttings need to callus before they will root. This method allows the callusing to take place on the mother plant before the cutting is removed and is most helpful for those hard to root trees/shrubs. Plan to use the toothpick technique during the last weeks of August up until mid-September. This is a little known process and when I first posted it a number of growers contacted me, pleased to know about it as it requires no misting systems, etc.
MATERIALS REQUIRED...
THE TOOTHPICK PROPAGATION TECHNIQUE
2. Place the block of wood behind that point and make a single VERTICAL cut all the way through the stem, just below the bud. 3. Insert a toopick through the cut. 4. Mark each cutting with colored yarn/tape so that you can locate it at a later date. 5. Walk away from your toothpick cuttings until the end of October or November. Leave them alone! 6. REMOVING THE CUTTINGS FROM THE MOTHER PLANT.
7. Dip your cuttings in rooting hormone and set them in a cold frame. Water well and close up the frame for the winter. Water as needed. If you do not have a cold frame, set the cuttings right next to your house foundation on the east or north side. Lean an old window or glass pane up against the foundation to protect them. 8. Rooting should take place by mid-spring. Those with greenhouses can leave the cuttings on the mother plant into December/January before setting them to root. Commercial propagators will find this useful. A VARIATION OF THE TOOTHPICK TECHNIQUE
Hopefully I have explained this method so it is understood. Reading it over a few times may be necessary.
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Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by little_dani 9, S. Tex Coast (My Page) on Wed, Aug 23, 06 at 15:07
| Thank you so much for reminding me that is it August! I had made a mental note to do this when I found your post about it somewhere. I think this might be the answer to rooting some of the difficult plants I have tried to propagate for years, such as coppertone loquat. Thanks, again! Janie |
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- Posted by wilderness1989 Zone 5 IL USA (My Page) on Fri, Aug 25, 06 at 16:07
| Thanks for the tip!!!!! John Gray |
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| i use a toothpick in the "wound" of a stem when i bury it for layering...is that the same principle?? |
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- Posted by mollymaples Northwest,z6 (My Page) on Fri, Sep 15, 06 at 2:17
| Nandina, does this work for fruit trees and trees like the flowering cherry? |
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| Molly, Fruit trees/flowering cherry are generally difficult to root and usually are grafted onto suitable root stock. Give the toothpick method a try...using the 'water sprouts' (upward growth on fruit tree branches that one usually removes at pruning time) as rooting material. You should have a fairly successful strike rate. |
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| Couldn't stand it... I had to bump this especially because of the time of year for this... ~Angela |
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- Posted by davemichigan z 5/6 (SE Michigan) (My Page) on Tue, Sep 2, 08 at 16:31
| Angela, thanks for bumping this up. This is the first time I read about this technique! |
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| Re bump : How did it work any one in zone 6 or 7 try it? |
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- Posted by stuckinthedirt 6b VA (Shenandoah Va (My Page) on Tue, Aug 3, 10 at 12:10
| This is the first time I have seen this method. I am going to try it, and see how it goes. I am having trouble rooting one of my mother-in-law's camellias. Maybe this will do the trick! |
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