You may have better luck taking cuttings in winter. Try it in mid-December to mid-January, bottom heat at 75 to 80 degrees, .8% IBA/talc, strip wound, peat/perlite 1:1 by volume, no mist. Usually I get 100% "take" on winter cuttings of Thuja and Chamaecyparis, and 80-90% on Juniperus virginiana and Tsuga.

soeur

Thank you for your reply Soeur. I thought you could propagate them year round. Is 6 weeks a reasonable time frame to expect roots to have formed? Why would you not mist and how many times a day do they need watering and the plastic covering removing to ventilate them? Why do you think they are turning brown at the edges? So many questions...

Woody plants are particular about when they propagate best from cuttings. I'm a professional propagator, and I can't think of one that offers uniform success just any ol' time you take a cutting. Conifers typically propagate best in winter, using the previous summer's growth. Six to eight weeks is fairly reasonable for roots to strike. This means that new roots are visible; they may be quite vigorous or may be just starting. It can take longer, though; don't give up for 10-12 weeks. Do begin feeding the rooted cuttings when rooting is actively underway. And don't transplant on until you have a good vigorous root system grown.

No mist because flat-leaved types like junipers, arborvitaes and such can get fungal problems when the foliage is kept wet. In my experience, the most important factor besides timing is correct medium (fast draining is imperative) and enough water and fertilizer. Tent the cuttings if they're on heat and you don't have them in a naturally humid situation like a greenhouse. But leave the tent partially open, not closed.

The brown edges indicate stress. Could be due to many causes, including wrong timing. I'd try again in winter.

Soeur