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Janie's propagation box follow up
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Posted by marcejen 7B (My Page) on Wed, Oct 21, 09 at 22:54
The original post for this propagation system started more than 4 years ago and have the max of 150 follow-ups.
I read them all, so many of my questions were answered. like, does that will work in October in zone 7, can I root roses/, can I use them for seeds, the ones which need times?
So Janie [little dany]I am sure I will again find some of your posts. and I will stack my boxes in my potting shed and try to control the temperature as we are in the 50* right now.
Thanks again. |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| Would you be so kind as to post the link for the first 150 set of posts? |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| This is for you rain2fall |
Here is a link that might be useful: Propagation Box
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| Oh my Gosh! Thanks for re-starting this thread and for the link. I didn't read all 150 posts, but the pictorial directions are great. its a keeper! |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| I read this post last year and this spring modified the box by replacing it with a commercial seed tray (with no holes) and a propagating hood that fits on top. These are sold at most outlets that sell soiless propagation mixes. For us on Vancouver Island, Integrity Seeds, Borden Mercantile and Buckerfields sell these for about $1.40 each unit. I put in a small clay pot which has the hole plugged and it works like a charm! This way, I can start up to about 60 cuttings in one flat. |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| Hey I remember reading that old thread!.... ended up trying it last summer and it worked great. Three flats of boxwood cuttings(an easy rooter for me), I didn't have any rooting powder so I just stuck them plain and the two flats under cover (in the box) are well rooted while the third (kept well watered but not covered) has just maybe 20% rooted with weak roots and a couple dried up. I changed the original a bit by turning the tub upside down and using the cover as a base for the cutting tray. Thanks Janie! |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| Wow, I am honored! I haven't been here in awhile, just thought I would come look to see what was going on. I am always glad to see new innovations. You can never have too many ideas. Janie |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| Newbie here who finds this very interesting! Can't wait to give this method a try. |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| Has anyone tried this method for camellias? |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| I rooted a bunch of grapes this spring. I had the box set on top of a heat mat. Every one of the grapes took. However, I found that the soil stayed too wet, so I only added water to the clay pot occasionally. |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| I read every single post in Janie's original "Easy Propagation Chamber thread" (link below) and as well as the ones in this thread. I am just so excited about starting this process! I don't want to over-think it, but I have a few questions and the suggestions here are helpful and time-savers for methods, tips and tricks that would not probably occur to me otherwise! 1 - How do you measure out your 50/50 peat and perlite mix? Do you use a coffee can or container of some sort, or do you just eyeball it? 2 - How/where do you mix the two and do you mix it dry? Do you do it directly in the plastic shoebox, or into a separate container first? 3 - How do you know how much water to add? How do you know when it is damp enough? 4 - When you put it into the plastic shoebox, do you gently pat it flat, or just scoop it in and leave it fluffy and uneven? In Janie's photos, it looks pretty flat. Here is what I did today for my first propagation chamber venture: I used a large scoop to measure and matched scoop-for-scoop, perlite and peat into a separate, large clean 5-gallon bucket. I stirred the dry ingredients together with a short piece of PVC pipe. Then I poured in small amounts of water at a time, stirring the mix thoroughly. I continued to add water in small amounts until the dampness felt about right. After it was thoroughly mixed and damp, I used a small hand shovel to fill my plastic shoebox about half-way. I gently patted it flat. I twisted the clay pot into the center, creating the hole as I inserted it, so it would remain in contact with the surrounding soil (rather than leaving a hole when I added the soil to the box). The remainder of the steps were according to Janie's directions. I am eager to see how this goes! Carol |
Here is a link that might be useful: Easy Propagation Chamber
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| Propagating cuttings isn't rocket science and there is not just one correct answer - so I'll give my input on how I do it (and I'm very successful with cuttings - use to do 10,000 a year) eyeball. Again, it isn't rocket science. Some people use 100% of either. I happen to use seed starting mix, coir, or perlite /vermiculite. Some people use NEW unscented non absorbent cat litter to root cuttings I mix in another container to which I add water and mix thoroughly. This way I know it is all damp and not just the top - like you can get if you just water (otherwise you have to use too much water it's too wet) This also blends whatever rooting medium you decide to use. Damp but not wet. Also, if you are going to put the lid on, there is enough moisture you do not need the pot in the center - but it's fine to use and if it makes you happy, then use it. It would make watering a little easier if the lid is off for awhile and the mix dries. For most cuttings, I don't use a lid. Drier areas of the country (or even this state) misting or a lid is more important. In the summer, I generally just place my uncovered rooting box outside in the shade for plants that are hardy in this area. For tropicals / houseplants, they are inside. The harder ones are on a heating mat - most are not (due to space limitations where I live now) If you are in a hot area and plan to root outside - don't use a lid or you will cook your cuttings. I place the rooting medium in the container and firm it pretty well- also around each cutting as it is put in. you want the moist mixture in contact with the stem - you do not want large air pockets. Like I said - there are many ways to succeed and some things work in some areas that won't work in others because of the difference in humidity and temperature or type of cuttings. Experiment with the easier cuttings or ones where you have unlimited source of cuttings first - then as your confidence builds, move on to the tougher plants. |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| I know it isn't rocket science and there are many ways to do it, but I really appreciate getting hints/tips/tricks from those who have done (10,000 or more!) cuttings on what works for them. Thank you so much for taking the time to respond - I bet a lot of folks will really appreciate it. Two more questions: Do you stick the pencil in all the way to the bottom of the box? Do you insert the cutting all the way to the bottom of the box? Thanks! Carol |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up - more
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| For those who are thinking of trying this, here are two of my tips: - I could only find the very small-sized clay pots at Home Depot in Jacksonville, Florida. I could not find any at plant nurseries, Lowes, Walmart or Target. Only Home Depot. $0.38 each. I put a small amount of rooting hormone into an old film cannister. This is so I don't contaminate the whole package of powder, as Janie said, but I like the film cannister better than the paper because it is easier for me to dip the cutting and then tap off the excess powder. Carol |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| No - try not to touch the bottom of the box with the cutting. Most cuttings will likely be fine although I find the ones that I have done that touch, the very tip of the cutting dies. Try and leave at least 1/4" (or more) Some cuttings actually root better without a rooting hormone powder. The powder can block some of the pores of the cells. Some cuttings root well with the powder - yes, I use it - but not on the easier to root cuttings. I do like the powder better than the liquid and I do like willow water. Check at the dollar stores - I found excellent little clay pots that would work well for this - they were 3/ $1.00 I mostly posted about it not being rocket science to fend off the attacks by those who think there is only one way (their way) to do things. REMEMBER - this is the only real MUST - REMEMBER which end of the cutting goes into the rooting medium. MOST will not root if they are put in upside down. There are very few exceptions to this rule (not including those you can root horizontally such as cactus) A great book you can sometimes find used is 'Plant Propagation principles and practices' Mine is 3rd edition published in 1975 Lots of science info although lots on starting seeds, cuttings, grafting. 7th edition (new) is over $100. although you can find older edition ones for less than $20. For the information you will want, the older editions are perfectly fine. |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| Thank you for all the detailed info! I think the details are important - it can make/break your success. Unfortunately, all of my cuttings are stuck all the way to the bottom and probably touch the plastic. Live and learn. I'll report how they do. Also, it was obvious this morning that my peat/perlite mix was not wet enough. The pot in each chamber was completely empty. Filled them up and misted the cuttings again. I will watch them carefully today (Day 2). Still having fun! Carol |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| I have read the original posts many times and finally got around to taking a picture of mine. Unfortunately I didn't label some of the pots in mine, but I have rose cuttings, a couple of salvias, a couple green and gold euonymous, a plectranthus, the variegated plant may be a hydrangea but could be a gardenia. These have been in the box since mid October. This is one of the Rubbermaid containers that is about 16 inches deep. I got several of them for $1 because the lids were broken and cover them with a piece of plexiglas. Dampen the soil and let sit overnight before sticking the cuttings and do not mist or water again unless the soil gets dry. I have pretty good success with this method - never had any luck with the baggie method. I like the clear cups so I can see when they have roots. Sometimes use peat cups for rose cuttings but have to be very careful about not gettng them too wet. I usually remove all but the two top leaves. Sometimes the leaves die an fall off like the one cup that looks like a little stub, but it has nice green nubs that are about to deveop. 
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Thought you might want more details
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| OH, I forgot to look for roots while I was taking the picture: This is new little growth on a varigated sedum in one of the small cups - maybe two ounce:
And a little tiny root
One of the variegated plants
And this one was interesting. I thought it was a salvia, but may not be - roots in the cup
and roots above the cup - it may be ready to repot and move out of the chamber soon.
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RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| Well, with that square stem, it looks like salvia to me. I am glad this is still rocking along. I just happened to stumble on the link in a folder on my desk top that was labeled "Shortcuts seldom used". I couldn't tell you why I was poking around in there, but I am glad I did. This thing made it into a college textbook. It just astonishes me! Thanks for all the nice thoughts. ~janie (little_dani) |
RE: Janie's propagation box follow up
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| This interests me in regards to the "easy propagation chamber" which is also called "forsythe pots" method which I have done. But I prefer the tradional methods as follows. I might add that I always water from the bottom as they will draw it up as needed . If the medium becomes dry at least 1 inch deep I will water. Once the top soil becomes moist I will remove any remaining water. I have mostly salvia and cuphea cuttings. lights are raised for photo taking
I just water the saucer and draws it up as needed , the same in the tray flats
I took these salvia wendys wish cuttings from cuttings over this winter,, took only 10 days to root , these guys root and grow really fast.
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