I want to start grafting this spring and don't know who sells tools that will last.

http://www.obcnw.com/b2b/shop.php?prod_action=showdetail&prod_id=2101#Doc Farwell
Doc Farwell's I use only on wounds to my understocks below the union. It needs to be brought indoors in winter. You also have to order it at the appropriate time.

http://www.midwestvineyardsupply.com/ProductList.asp?categoryid=25&subcatid=84&cat=Grafting+Tape&Type=True
Parafilm Grafting Tape

The most important tool around for precision cuts for grafters:
http://www.amleo.com/index/item.cgi?cmd=view&Words=562

Budding Strips - I don't remember.

I use Anderson Band Pots.

Dax

Being a chemist I bought Parafilm M in a 225 ft by
4 in wide roll from Fischer Scientific many years
ago. I cut it cross wise to a 4 in length and match
the with to the diameter of the wood I'm wrapping.

Since I graft mostly citrus, I use a lot of liquid
chlorine bleach and therefore get most use from
the stainless Victorinox blades. Sharpen on a hard
or extra hard (fine grained) Arkansas novaculite
stone. Stones are available at gun/knife shops or
shows or RioGrande Jewelry supply Albuequrque.
Super fine diamond and syn. corundum (Al2O3) can
be be used but cheap ones either fail soon or are
not smooth enough to get a razor edge.
If you use a Tina carbon steel blade you can use
silicon carbide stones available at your hardware
store.

Dont buy a sorry knife. Use single edge razor blades
instead if you have to save $. For other savings
You can cut plastic bags to strips and finish with
masking tape. No tie needed. For rubber stripes,
some people use heavy rubber bands. I use 8mil tape
and stretch it instead.

You may not need parafilm if you do something else
to conserve moisture in the scion or bud wood.
But it sure beats wax unless you really know wax.

I have a folding Victorinox knife with a regular grafting blade and a budding blade and it has served me well. If you plan on doing much top working, it is nice to have a folding knife when you're up on a ladder. I also picked up a japanese grafting knife online (can't remember where) and it is a very nice blade with a long, pointed bevel. The bevel on japanese knives is on the other side, meant for cutting away, whittling style, which I'm not really used to.
I like using rubber grafing bands and trowbridges wax. They seem to photodegrade when their job is done and fall off, which is nice. I heat the wax in a tin can suspended in a bigger coffee can with a candle in the bottom. Careful not to get the wax too hot or you'll cook the wood.