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Grafting Rose of Sharon

Posted by jimmyjojo 5b S/Ontario Canada (My Page) on
Tue, Dec 5, 06 at 22:52

Has anyone successfully grafted a multi-colour Rose of Sharon?


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RE: Grafting Rose of Sharon

jimmyjoe, I'm wondering if the really are grafted. Reason being I bought two sets of plantings of these with the double blooms. What I got when they came was three different plants per planting 1 blue, 1 red and 1 white. But this does bring up a point with your question.


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RE: Grafting Rose of Sharon

I've often in catalogs seen "multi-flowered" Rose of Sharon trees. So yes they like anything woody may be grafted.

They certainly root very easily as well. I've rooted hardwood in spring and winter very easily. Hormex #8 with 50/50 peat moss to perlite with bottom heat in winter and simply outdoors in flats in shade during spring dormancy.

Texts will tell you to use softwood cuttings in spring in full shade, however.

'Dirr - The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation' says:
Cuttings: June-July. 1000 ppm IBA-solution, peat: perlite, mist root readily. Cuttings can be rooted in late summer or winter. Hardwood cuttings are succesfully rooted at one large nursery by insertion into prepared soil outside in Octtober-November. No hormone is used and rooting averages 80%.

96% with 8000 ppm IBA-talc in 8 weeks (Dirr)"

Summer grafting might be the easiest option to pursue.

Graft mid-June through the end of August, use no wax, tie up the bud strip and get a wadded up moist paper towel and toss the grafted plant in a white or clear garbage bag and tie off the bag waiting 10 days or 2 weeks or therabouts. The only preparation you'll need to be aware of is to remove the leaves from your scion with scissors but keeping a 3/4" petiole. The understock, leave the leaves on.

Place the graft bags (I put several in each bag and use two or three moist wadded paper towels per bag) under a large shade tree so they receive very little light. A large conifer or deciduous tree is perfect.

You'll know if the graft was successful if the petioles turn black and fall off to expose a bud hiding under the petiole. Then keep your grafts for the next 2 winters and as you pot them up in mostly shade or they'll cook on you!

Then in two years, you can bring them into sun. This method also works consistently for Ginkgo's and Japanese Maples. Watch for mold...

Acer's require that their soil media is almost dry as you graft them and for the following two weeks after the graft has taken. You want to give them just enough water so they aren't bone dry while keeping them 'pretty dry' -

Then after this last two weeks, you can water them to death should you choose.

For any of these summer grafts, that bud that grows up and becomes exposed, early, you still need to wait till the following spring to make sure it "pushes" (growth).

That's it.

Dax


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RE: Forgot Something

One last thing that's very important. The following spring when the grafts start to grow and the leaves are fully expanded, you must remove the upper portion of the understock by cutting it off just above where the actual graft took place.

Here's an Acer palmatum graft showing the new buds that grew from underneath the petiole and a Ginkgo graft - where the wound healed over. You can't even see the graft union (where it took place0. A very good graft. Also notice the bud on the scion is alive and that also, there is green showing around that bud.

Dax

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RE: Grafting Rose of Sharon

Thanks for posting that Dax. I'll give it a try! Nice pictures.


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RE: Grafting Rose of Sharon

My mother in law last winter (2005) gave me what looked like a tiny stick. She said it was from her Rose of Sharon tree. She told me all I needed to do was stick it in the ground. I though she was joking! I did, and last summer it grew, but I did not have any blooms yet, just leaves. This year I probably will. I do have one already that has purple flowers, and it is beautiful!


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