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colokid

Imitation greem house

colokid
14 years ago

This is kinda for Dan since I am east of Greeley, but any one else is welcome.

I have this idea of nailing a strip about 3 foot off the ground along the south side of my garage. Which is open and full sun. Them laying/leaning glass storm doors, or clear panels, down from that to about 1 foot off the ground. That would give me about 6 foot by 16 foot, All closed up of course. Later in year picking up doors and turning every thing open. My idea is to warm the ground up to get an early steart more that protecting from early frost. How much earlier could I got out with tomatoes? Friend suggested that I go ahead and box it up high enough to walk in, but I bet the building police would get me for that.

Any comments or suggestions welcome.

KennyP

Comments (8)

  • dirtshaman
    14 years ago

    I'm doing a few projects similar to what you are doing. I am utilizing natural sunlight to get a head start on throwing my vegetables out in spring. For the night time, I am using multiple artificial lighting. I suggest getting a Fluorescent T-5 fixture (low cost, no high temps) and a timer. To veg the plants out more, you will need a higher photoperiod thus requiring a good night light. I've got lots of vegetables already started if you need some extras to get started. You'll need to fertilize your growing medium when it calls for it. Hit me up with any questions you might have!
    I really like the size of the space you have to grow with. Most of the fun is setting up your room to become self sustaining.

  • Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
    14 years ago

    Yup, the BH is pushing for me to do the very same thing, I got some 2x2 metal posts that would be our header. Our sides would be cattle panel with two layers of greenhouse film and the top would be hinged. Not sure I'm going to do it but I may, I've got the plans sketched out, I haven't worked out all my concerns with wind pressure, so it may not get done this year.

    With one layer of storm door you'll have ~R-1 which is OK, if you can somehow get used sliding glass doors that is ~R-2 - 2.5 which is an amazing difference; if your storm window frame is deep enough off the glazing you could get that external plastic storm window stuff at HD for not too much and use that as a second layer (underneath) which helps insulate a lot.

    You'll want to secure everything because the wind will pick that sucker up and flip it and you'll be cleaning glass for 3 weeks. In my view if I were to do this I could get my cool seasons/peas/beans under there maybe Mar 15 (you might be ~a week + later if you are in that cold basin with the fog) and maybe my toms and some peppers out April 1 in WOWs.

    My personal concern is two-fold: 1) venting the heat - big problem for me and this thing for me would have to have two vents (or one big one susceptible to wind), and a decent auto vent opener is ~45.00, so I have to really want it. 2) If there are two long, cool cloudy days in a row and summer crops are unprotected, that'll set them back if not kill them, maybe negating the extra time you put them out.

    But, yes, let me know if you do it Kenny. Don't see why it wouldn't work if you can ensure it is secured against wind and you can vent.

    Dan

  • colokid
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Thanks Dan. Lots of good in what you said.
    When you describe what you are thinking about with the cattle panels, I remember some where on the web, a picture, think it was something like "mom's", that was a square and the top was two hinged doors. All on skids.
    I question the use of a floor in small green houses. Wouldn't the ground tend to help keep things warmer during the night?
    I read the greenhouse forum too.
    KennyP

  • Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
    14 years ago

    Yes, the question of what to put on the floor of a GH is an eternal one. Wet soil holds heat, as does dark pavers/bricks/etc. The question becomes what is easier to keep clean and hold fewer diseases?

    Dan

  • elkwc
    14 years ago

    Kenny what you are talking about is very similar to my cold frames. I have two and they work very well. I have greens growing in one now. I'm in extreme SW KS and don't have any vents on them. Mine are in the open. They are positioned with the slant towards the south. I also grow and harden plants off in mine. I have hinges and have them where they will lay back over on the ground. Have went through 50 mph winds with no problems. I know some when hardening off position them with the slant to the east. So as to block some of the afternoon sun if in the late spring. So far no trouble here. On mornings when it was in the teens and supposed to get say upper 50's I would just prop the top open a bit around 6:30 when I did chores. Usually no more than an inch and then works well. If going to get real hot I would lay shade cloth over. It is kind of a learning experience. But I have never lost a plant due to over heating yet. This year I will start several in the frames instead of under lights in the house. I know several who do with good results. Jay

  • Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
    14 years ago

    My vent opened today at ~12:30 or so, due to a little cloudiness in the morning. If it didn't vent, it would hit 85º in there no problem on sunny days, killing my lettuce.

    Dan

  • jnfr
    14 years ago

    I just bought a roll of plastic from Lee Valley Tools that has vents cut in it, which they say open up when the air gets hot. I'm going to cover one of my raised beds with it (I'm hoping the alfalfa I planted perks up early this spring so I can dig it in before the tomatoes go out). I'll keep you posted how it works. Makes sense in theory, but Colorado weather is rough, so theory may not hold.

  • colokid
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    You people here and on other forums are provided me with the down to earth answers I wanted. Many thanks.
    Too bad all that heat when ventilating one, can't be pumped into the house.
    KennP

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