I am with you--if you put black plastic pots over them at this point, and they're in this fierce sun, they'll be cooked for sure. Usually when they're larger, they won't wilt, but it is not uncommon that they can wilt (sometimes quite a bit) when first transplanted, especially if they were hardened in a part of the yard that gets different sun from where they are planted now. I had some pretty sad tomatoes last week, so now is a good time to prune any suckers (just do it with scissors/snips, so you don't further damage the remaining wilting plant) and lower sets of leaves. Give them a few days, and they'll surely perk back up.

Regarding if they really are dry or not, push down 2-3 inches under the surface of the soil--is it really dry all the way down there, because if it's not, then more water isn't the answer. A good straw mulch will help to cool everything down and retain some of the moisture, too.

I can tell you this from experience--peppers don't like their root systems traumatized, so if you were especially rough with them, it may take a little while to recover.

Good luck and let us know when things start perking back up!

This happens to me all the time - the root structure just isn't developed enough to move moisture up into the leaves during dry and windy conditions. If you check early in the morning when its cool and the wind hasn't yet started up, they should look fine.

As Skybird sez, Just keep the soil moist, not sopping wet to drown the roots, and they'll recover.

You have received some excellent advice. I will add my 2 cents. First not knowing your soil makes it hard to give good advice. Mine is deep sand. So no chance of getting too wet. I've been setting out some large late plants over the last two weeks. Going out to set out some when I finish posting this. First from my experience some of the potting mixes will tend to dry out in my sand although the sand around it will be moist. On the large plants if daytime temps are over 90 I will have to water lightly every day for 7-10 days till the roots get established and reach out into the soil surrounding them. In a tighter soil like clay I don't imagine you would have that problem. But since I've gardened for 40 plus years in deep sand it is all I know. Another thing I do is I put the cage up around it when I transplant and put large squares or shade cloth over the top. This allows them to get indirect sun but not direct sun. Then even in the heat where I use 2 ft diameter cages I put a trash bag with a cut in the bottom over the outside of the cage and pull it down where the top of the bag is just below the top of the plant. I mulch the inside with straw leaving a small area around the stem unmulched. Using these methods I have set out plants when the outside temps are over 100 and the winds have been high and had very few problems and minimal wilting. Each grower has to find methods that work in their garden. As I stated above my soil is sand and very fast draining. If it wasn't I wouldn't water the way I do. Most of the other methods I use I feel should work anywhere. Once established I normally water once a week. During the extreme heat of last summer I watered once every 4 days. I try to water the least I can once a plant is established. I gradually pull the bags down to adjust the plants to the severe wind. I leave them bunched at the bottom for a few weeks. If I know severe weather is coming I can pull them up and put straw in the top and they usually survive well. After they get 4 ft or taller I remove the bag totally. I have tried various methods and this works well. If your cages were a smaller diameter or you didn't mulch you might bake a plant. But the way I use them with the large cages I have never hurt a plant. Jay

Yesterday, my spouse asked why there was a plastic lawn chair in the middle of the garden. I was shading a new transplant. I try to do all my planting late in the day, where the plants can recuperate overnight, or do it on a rare overcast day. Even taking those precautions, some plants seem to need a couple of days of shade, or they will wilt. I use old laundry baskets, or lawn chairs. It looks pretty tacky, but if it saves the plant, I don't really care how bad it looks!

As David mentioned, the best indicator is to go out first thing in the morning to see if they have perked up. If they are wilted at that time of day, there is another issue, such as root damage, or under or over watering, etc.

Yep, it's the heat and the extremely low humidity coupled with the wind that is killing your seedlings. In fact this year is so bad that many of my other plants (seeded or transplanted in May) are periodically wilting every now and then. This is going to be a very hot and dry year for sure. The wildfires seem to be a confirmation of this.

My peas are doing horrible, my squash is even struggling, but i think they are finally sending deep roots, my beans are doing pretty good with a watering every now and then, and my watermelons are starting to take off, The carrots, peas, and radishes that are planted in partial shade are doing pretty good though. Planting in partial shade around here is very advisable as a way to combat the heat and low moisture problems. My Tomatoes are doing great though even though they are in full sun and i barely water them. I planted them from seed outside in early may too.