I wonder if you could assign a little space in your open garden to grow perennials. I do that each and every year to grow Canterbury Bells and Sweet Williams.

Okay, those are biennials but I've started plenty of perennials this way also - just moving things near the end of the growing season or very early in the spring where I want them to bloom. Of course, those species that transplant easily are the preferred characters.

I do not bother to sow the seed early. My idea is that they won't be making a lot of growth this year anyway and every weed seed in that ground should germinate and be eliminated before I sprinkle in some flower seed.

And, it is best to choose good ground, a protected spot, and, maybe, a little afternoon shade.

. . . just my 2¢ on how I do things.

digitSteve

I think I would sow in the ground anything that doesn't require stratification. Making a sketch of what you've sown makes it easier to keep track of what's where.

If you're going to start in containers it would not be a bad idea to start indoors. It could be easier to control at this time of year.

I've got some WS-style milk jugs on my front porch right now just waiting to sprout (I planted the last batch about a week ago maybe? I don't really remember). I think covering them would help keep the moisture in just be careful not to cook the seeds in there (and don't forget ventilation). I would put them in a shady area until they sprout then remove the cover and give it some sunshine. I would think you'll have to water a lot more than what you read about WS b/c of the smaller cups & the warmer weather.

As long as you don't plant ALL of your seeds, even if they don't sprout you can still try again next winter. :-)

I just plant seeds directly in the ground. Or often in left over pony packs/flats, or whatever is around if I'm unsure of germination rates - or I don't know exactly where I want things yet, both of which happens often.

I put the flats somewhere that they get at least some full morning sun, but some shade during the heat of the day. I do this all summer for stuff that doesn't need a cold period to sprout.

Once the seedlings get their true leaves or whenever I get around to it, I start hardening off by setting the flats in a more exposed area (more sun and more breezes) to get them ready for going into the ground. After a week or two of that, in the ground they go!

I start a new set of seeds once the "starter area" flats have been moved to the hardening off area, and just continue the cycle through the growing season. Or until I totally run out of space to plant stuff (not likely on an acre+ of land).

If you don't plan on covering the containers, as in the traditional wintersowing method, it will make it harder in this climate to keep the soil moist enough for germination to occur. If you cover the containers, and they are placed in the sun, you will likely fry the sprouts. So whether you cover or don't cover, at our altitude, I would recommend that any seeds started in the summer months, be done in a shady area. I doubt direct sun will be needed for germination, if the soil temps are warm enough, and the containers receive bright indirect light.

Since many wintersown perennials don't bloom until the second year, I think it's a good idea to start things now that don't need cold stratification. You might not get a lot of blooms next year, but certainly more than if you waited and wintersowed them.

Bonnie

I am actually contemplating sowing some campanula rotundifolia (bluebells of Scotland) now, and those do need 1-2 months of stratification. I have had these seeds for years and never remember to plant them in the fall or stratify them in the winter, so I figure it can't hurt to try stratifying them now in the fridge. I have lots of little seeds so if it doesn't work I'll try to remember to plant some this fall. Good luck with your sowing!

Thank you all for the responses. I went ahead and sowed a bunch of seeds in about 30 plastic cubs. They are sitting against the eastern side of the house so they will get a bit of morning sun. I will see if this location will end up drying out the soil too much and move them to a more shady spot if that is the case. It hasn't been an issue yet but the weather has been very damp and cool the last few days. I did not cover the cups and have been watering them from the bottom by submerging the cups in about 2 inches of water until they are evenly moist. So far so good. I did only sow a small portion of the seeds so I can always resort to WS if this experiment doesn't succeed.

Thanks again to everyone.