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habitat_gardener

diseased canes in neighbor's garden

habitat_gardener
19 years ago

My neighbor has asked for help editing her large collection of hybrid teas (maybe 250 or so). I looked at them the other day and noticed quite a few had been so poorly pruned that the centers of large stems were quite rotted. Some can be pruned below the rot; several have rot at the base. (I haven't kept any eye on what bloomed well; I've stayed away from her garden the past year because she has had her mow & blow crew spray poisons. They seem to have little horticultural knowledge and to my eye the bushes look poorly pruned overall, so there's not much to work with.)

So I'm wondering if, once the rot starts in the main canes, there is any reason at all to keep the bushes going. In previous years I noticed that the old, gnarly bushes tended to be the first to get mildew and rust (and then spread it to the rest of the garden).

Second question: I've been wondering if I should try to persuade her to pay me to look after the roses organically. But first I'd like to come up with an intelligent estimate of the time required. And I'm wondering, those of you who have a garden of similar size in a similar climate, how much time do you spend each week or each month, aside from deadheading? My neighbor does most of the deadheading herself, and she grows them mainly for cut flowers for herself, and also has a garden party once a year or so. The garden area has maybe an inch of mulch, if that. I'd like to see a few inches, and lots of compost.

Comment (1)

  • petaloid
    19 years ago

    I suspect the problem with the centers of the large canes you see that appears to be rot could actually be insect damage, possibly from cane borers.

    We cut the cane back bit by bit to below the damage -- fresh white centers indicate live wood. Some rose friends take the time to dab the fresh cut with white glue to protect it from the borers.

    As far as rot at the base of the plant, this could be canker or another problem.

    Fungus spores exist in the rose garden no matter what you do, but they only multiply and cause damage under conducive conditions, including lack of sunlight & poor air circulation.

    Warm, dry days and cool damp nights encourage the growth of powdery mildew. Cold, wet weather encourages the growth of rust fungus.

    Some varieties of roses are more susceptible to rust and powdery mildew fungus, while other varieties are resistant.

    This does not depend on the age of the bush, although the stress of neglect can be a partial factor. A disease-prone variety will not spread fungus to a disease-resistant variety to any great degree, even if planted right next to it.

    If your neighbor removes rose bushes that show serious disease problems in your climate, she will have an easier time. Your local rose society could be a source of information on varieties that resist disease in your climate.

    If the plant has lumps of canker at the base or only has one or two live canes remaining, I would think she's better off without it.

    I agree that more mulch is needed -- three inches of composted mulch will help a lot. In this area, composted redwood bark is readily available. I add two cups of alfalfa meal under each large bush as a growth stimulant. In my area, 1/4 cup of Epsom salt under each bush makes a nice spring tonic, remediating any lack of magnesium in the soil.

    On the west coast, late December through January is a good time to prune (in your neighbor's case, re-prune properly), scrape loose bark off the base & bud union, clean up any dead leaves off the beds and dormant spray.

    After my winter pruning I use Cooke's Kop-R-Spray to deter fungus and Volk horticultural oil to smother insect/mite eggs.

    During the growing season, I also spray the foliage with a dilute solution of liquid seaweed (kelp) emulsion about once a month, which boosts growth and improves the foliage.

    As far as what you should charge to fix up and maintain her garden, I have no idea, but she is smart to ask for your help!