Mycotrol is quite expensive, and tests in Florida didn't give good control. It's also broad spectrum.

Regular use (weekly) of insecticidal soap, especially on the new growth, is probably the most dependable cheap control. Horticultural oil is essentially interchangeable.
This isn't realistic for most landscapers, nurseries, or growers.. but it's realistic for the dedicated home gardener.

Rotate in spinosad and neem oil (100% oil) every couple of weeks.

I also rotate with *fresh* garlic juice and karanja oil.

Pyrethrins should be avoided - not only do they not give control, thrips quickly develop resistance.

Many "essential oils" actually act as thrip attractants (both for Frankliniella and Scirtothrips species).

I accidentally found what attracts thrips: high phosphorus fertilizer. My best Yves Seedling rose has two different colors blooms: some dark-red, and some light-pink. see below:

It was perfectly healthy until end of its 2nd flush (July). It was a heavy flush, lots of blooms. I should had given it dolomitic lime. Roots secret acid to extract phosphorus from the soil for blooming. At the end of blooming, rose tend to break out in black spots due to excess acid, and depletion of the anti-fungal agents (calcium, potassium, copper, zinc).

Unfortunately I wanted to deepen the color, so I tested Dr. Earth Flowergirl fertilizer with NPK 4-10-7. Ingredients are: Blood meal, fish bone meal, sulfate of potash, kelp meal, seaweed extract. Due to my heavy clay, the water didn't soak in fast enough. So I poked breathe holes around Yves rose, filled with coarse sand, then topped with NPK 4-10-7. I also mulched with horse manure, but I was absent-minded, so I topped it again with NPK 4-10-7. The bush lost 1/2 of its leaves due to salt-burn (both from the manure, plus kelp meal, plus seaweed). It also broke out in black spots. THEN THE THRIPS CAME for the 1st time. For the 1st time, I got a deformed bloom on my best Yves seedling. I killed 5 thrips this morning on that bush only. My other roses are OK, NO THRIPS ON THEM, just Yves rose.

Yves was the 1st one that I tested NPK 4-10-7, high in phosphorus via fish bone meal. For other roses I put more blood meal in to raise the nitrogen. I suspect that high phosphorus is the culprit. Phosphorus mobility is a 1, potassium mobility is a 3, and nitrogen mobility is a 10 (NOBLE Plant Foundation data). Yves rose is the one that I poked breathe-holes, so bone meal moved down fast, plus Yves is the HEAVIEST bloomer in my garden, thus the most acid secreted to utilize bone meal. Bone meal cannot be broken down if the pH is above 7. My soil is heavy clay, very alkaline at pH 7.7.

Several people reported bone meal on top attract white maggots, pretty gross. I don't think bone meal is what attract thrips, since other roses are also topped with that stuff, except THAT gunked up on top, and doesn't move down, thanks to my heavy clay.It's only Yves seedling, with breathe-holes filled with sand, for phosphorus to move down the root-zone. It's only Yves seedling which has the most acid-secreted due to heavy blooming, plus I made the planting hole slightly acidic with tons of cracked corn at pH 4.Some heavy-blooming on Yves at end of 2nd flush (acid-phosphatase), right before I put more phosphorus on via fish-bone-meal. DUMB MISTAKE !!

Last year I tested high-phosphorus rice-bran on my rose in pot, it also came down with black spots. I tested high-phosphorus Encap-compost (has cow manure), and La Reine rose came down with black spots. Why, see link below:

http://www.atlantishydroponics.com/info/nutrient-deficiency-symptoms-in-plants

The above link shows what's in excess will cause deficiency in another element. My soil is tested exceedingly high in magnesium (rock hard & sticky alkaline clay) ... yet the soil test recommended adding gypsum (calcium sulfate). The reason? Excess magnesium cause a deficiency in calcium. The above link also shows excess phosphorus causes many deficiencies: iron, zinc, copper, and manganese. Zinc and copper are strong anti-fungal agents, and without them, roses will break out in black spots. Many University Extensions cited that when there's too much phosphorus in the soil, that will create a zinc deficiency, and zinc is the strongest anti-fungal, next is copper, and last is calcium.

Excessive calcium will induce a potassium and boron deficiencies. Excessive calcium, nitrogen, and salt will induce a potassium deficiency. If the growth of plant is thin and spindly, it's a nitrogen deficiency. But if the plant doesn't bloom, it's a potassium deficiency rather than phosphorus, since mycorrhyzal fungi help plants to utilize phosphorus (no need for fertilizer). Too much nitrogen will induce potassium & phosphorus deficiency, and zero blooming.

The below link is excellent, worth looking, it shows what are the results of excess or deficiency of nutrients. An excerpt from below link:

" Phosphorus Excess - (too much manure, bone meal, or chemical)

Causes crop to mature too rapidly. Increases the need for iron, calcium, and magnesium. Reduces zinc, copper, and iron availability. Reduces uptake of manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum."

Sulfur Excess (from acidic rain, fertilizer, or acids released from decayed organics)

Poor utilization of nitrogen. Affects magnesium, sodium, molybdenum, calcium, and copper assimilation. Affects management of calcium and magnesium. Causes changes in pH by increasing acid or hydrogen in soil. "

Zinc Deficiency (caused by too much phosphorus or calcium in soil)
Can be caused by excess calcium. Poor growth and vigor & Lowers disease resistance. Causes stunting and lack of growth in terminal locations. Adversely affects pollination and reproduction.

Calcium Excess
Increases the need for phosphorus and zinc. Decreases the availability of nitrogen, phosphorus, iron, manganese, zinc, and potassium."

Iron Excess
Interferes with phosphorus absorption. Requires use of higher levels of potassium to regulate. Can cause Zinc deficiency.

http://tsmser.com/TSM/mission/showmeexcess.htm

From StrawChicago: One lady was honest to report in Organic Rose that after her application of high-phosphorus Mills' Magic Mix, plus Iron, her roses break out in black spots. Too much phosphorus, and too much iron will drive down zinc.

Zinc is the strongest anti-fungal agent which helps to protect plants against fungal (black spots) and pests invasion, such as thrips. That's why I won't use pre-formulated fertilizers, even if it's organic like Dr. Earth. My most healthy roses with no thrips nor fungal diseases? My dolomitic clay, plus natural & whole fertilizer as in alfalfa hay.

I recently just seen our first bout ever of thrip damage...( August 17th 2015...) Shook bloom over top of a white piece of paper and the little devils were crawling all over the place.

Basically a unfertilized rose bush besides being topdressed with horse manure in April...

Usually our climate is wet but been in a drought for nearly a month now and I do not hand water so conditions have been mainly dry....

My neighbor started a garden next door with Veggies and stuff thrips might go after. Plus I've seen a cucumber beetle which I've never seen one of those before... So???

The high grasses my wife has out front might attract thrips...???

Reading that thrips like dry weather I've been hosing down our front bed every so often to see what happens...

Very good pic. of thrip damage, JIm. We get frequent rain, at least once a week, plus I water Yves rose like crazy to undo the salt damage. I'll going to top Yves with my heavy clay to see if that helps. Will report later. Other roses are fine, only Yves got attacked by thrips.