Hi, your yellow-leafed roses are right next to the drainage pipe. You will have to transplant them as soon as possible away! from that area...and it's always a good idea to add drainage implements, anyway, so that the runoff doesn't hit your garden area... Water from drainage is bad for several reasons... Often the water runoff contains chemicals from manmade materials (like in the roofing, paint, etc)...Plus you get waterlogging in your roses as well! (thus the yellowed leaves) The other rose is faring better because it's further away from the pipe and the other unfortunate rose is partially protecting it from receiving that unwanted surplus water...

Also be sure! to mulch your roses...Mulching helps keep soil nutrients from "washing away" during rainy seasons...

Thank you! I'll transplant immediately. I originally uploaded several pictures including another yellowing bush but only posted the link to one. Here are the others, perhaps you would look again and see if the other bush is suffering the same fate. It also is close to a drain pipe, but I'm worried because the newest leaves are a different shape than the rest of the bush.

Thanks for the good advice!

Wait, one more questions. This rose was planted there by the previous owner and it was so beautiful and lush when we moved in. I know she was organic, so why do you think this drainpipe rose was happy then and not now?

Wait-- the rose has iron deficiency. To gradually lower the pH and promote availability of iron, spread a cup of garden sulfur and scuffle it into the unconsolidated soil. Then add an iron product according to the label for short term relief. Ferrous sulfate (a natural mineral) mixed with wet compost or peat is effective. The organic matter forms a natural chelate. Iron sulfate is sold under various names including copperas-- read labels. Any of the iron products at the garden center will help the rose.

Sulfur is slow acting--it has to be digested by bacteria.

There is plenty of iron in the soil, but it is unavailable because the high pH causes it to be locked up chemically.

To clarify, paling against green veins is a mineral deficiency symptom, not a waterlogging symptom. When the younger leaves are most affected, it is undoubtedly iron deficiency.

Excess water from the downspout could be a factor in that iron deficiency tends to be worse in cold wet soils. That might be why this rose is worse affected than others, or it might be the variety is more sensitive to iron deficiency. In either case, treating as I suggested should bring relief.

Usually there is a drain tile running along the foundation that creates good drainage for soils next to the house-- these areas might need more water than the rest of the yard.

There are a number of reasons why any plant has pale green to yellow leaves ranging from possibly the soils pH to an actual nutrient deficiency. What was this soils pH on the last good, reliable soil test? An excess of one nutrient can cause a plant to not uptake, or properly use, other necessary nutrients. Contact your local office of the University of Illinois USDA Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done.

Here is a link that might be useful: UI CES

It looks like an iron deficiency to me as well. I would suspect it's because it's planted next to the foundation. Lime leaches out from the foundation and gives the soil a high pH. Use some acidifier around the rose once a month, and add cottonseed meal to your fertilizer, because it's acidic as well.

Deanna

Cotton is one of the genetically engineered crops, and that gene will be in the seed therefore cottonseed meal, unless it is certified organic, would not be acceptable to an organic gardener today. Because many different nutrient deficiencies look very similar the only way to know what that might be is with a good, reliable soil test, especially since the soils pH will influence nutrient uptake and that alone can give an appearance of a nutrient deficiency.

Iron deficiency in the plant is caused by a shortage of available iron in the soil. Most soils contain plenty of iron, but at pH 6.8 and higher, the iron is increasingly less available to plant roots. Good organic content in the soil promotes availability, so that most roses can get enough iron at pH 7 and a bit higher. However, some own-root roses and those grafted on multiflora rootstock are less able to acquire iron. I have a couple of roses that will show mild symptoms at pH 6.8 if they don't get iron supplements or I haven't acted to acidify the soil.

Some deficiencies can be positively identified by inspecting the plant, and iron is one of them.