First of all, I've never rooted a cutting. My guess is that you are in a warm climate, with an unripened, or green hip. It might be helpful for someone to know the cultivar name of the rose. I would think the best thing would be to remove the hip and try to plant the seeds if they have hardened into seeds.
I would think the cane would be harder to root with the hips attached. If there is only an inch of the cane that contains the sport, I would think that to be the
Part that you would want to root. I don't think I have been much help. I'm sure someone will pop in with some better advice.

Thank-you, Len. Yes, this is a temperate clime, but it's been only 3 months that the hip has been ripening, 3 months since I discovered the flower.

Our days are warm, usually in the 60s this time of year, but our night still go down to the forties and thirties and rarely the upper 20s. The hip looks healthy, just green and immature. In fact it's been putting on size until the accident. I think it's full size or nearly so now. I have the stem with hip in a vase of water in a north facing window at this time.

If it helps to know, the parent plant is an Autumn Sunset. My DH is trying to comfort me by saying that AS is a vigorous shrub, in which case it may root easier.

-Gala

Gala, autumn sunset is a sport of westerland. I would think a whole cane would be a sport and one flower might be a mutation. As someone said on the other forum, the hips will be something totally different and has no connection really to the sport, or at least you can't expect the progeny to be the same as the 'sport'. Also just because the hips are green doesn't necessarily mean the seeds are not ripe. It should take about 8 weeks for your cutting to start getting roots, unless it is dormant, which it sounds like it is not. Your seeds will have to be chilled for a period before they will germinate, most put in refrigerator, not freezer, before planting.

Len, My rose had just broken dormancy and has emerging laterals about 1/2 " long along the stem near the tip. If a cutting came from a dormant plant, it would take longer to root? I seem to recall hearing that autumn cuttings (of harder wood) are more likely to be successful that spring cuttings of greenwood. I also seem to recall that there are different techniques for each. The method that I just had outlined to me, described below, i think would be considered a greenwood technique. I cut the hip off and put it in the fridge.

Someone who told me his technique of rooting in a cup of water using root tone, and then placing that cup on a clear plastic bin with a 1/4' water in the bottom, lidded, placed in dappled shade in the day, and bringing it in at night so it doesn't get too cold.

I have some root tone, and I am ready to try it tonight or tomorrow morning, unless someone suggests another method. My cutting is in water right now.

I took a photo of my cutting, in my computer, but have never uploaded a photo onto the forum before.

Thanks,
-G.

I have read this a couple of times, and I can't get a good handle on exactly what type of material you have to work with.

I'll take this one part at a time. If you are sure that the hip is 3 months old, you may have a chance with the seeds inside it. It's worth a shot, but I doubt that these seeds will do anything different than seeds found other places on the plant.

It's the cutting that I'd be dealing with, if it was mine. I have a fairly thorough photo tutorial on my web site that should guide you step by step through one way that I have successfully used to root roses. (The link is below.) The key to rooting roses is to provide an environment to encourage roots and avoid rot. Even with perfect conditions and technique, sometimes cuttings fail -- I hope yours succeeds.

How to Load a Photo to GW. Photos you see here don't actually reside on GW -- they are uploaded somewhere else. First, upload your photo to a photo sharing web site ... I use Photobucket because it's the easiest I've found. After your photo is uploaded, click on the box under the photo that says HTML Tag. This will copy that information to your clipboard, and you paste it into the message just like text. Abracadabra ... you'll have a photo in your message.

Hope this helps. If you have any questions, I'll see what I can do to get you answers.

Connie

Here is a link that might be useful: Tutorial

Thank-you Hartwood, your suggestions should help me get up the courage to try to root my cutting.

Here is a photo of the sport taken in October when it occurred.
{{gwi:222956}}

-Gala

What a beautiful flower! I'm happy to have helped, and I hope your cutting roots.

Connie

Dear Carol: Thank-you so much for including your link. I've read your tutorial four times. It's interesting because you are using semi-hardwood, and most suggestions are for soft-wood.

This leads me to believe that the accidental pruning may not have been such a bad thing after all. When I first saw that star-shaped rose, I felt as if an angel had come from heaven and delivered a flower from the hand of God. I may have left it indefinitely, thinking it too sacred to mess with. But from what I've been reading, perhaps 3 months since the flower opened may be a better time to root it, than later.

It's hardly like winter around here. It's been in the 70s everyday for the last 10 days or so and all my roses have broken dormancy. It does get cold at night, tho, sometimes into the 30s.

Some people say that winter is not the best time to try to root a cutting. So I'm considering getting around that by rooting it indoors in a bright room, where I can control the temperature,and then put it under grow lights so that it thinks it is June. Right now I'm keeping it in a moist environment, in water, at about 70 degrees.

It's been 2 days since I "took the cutting" and it's time for me to try to root it. Have you seen the photo of the cutting on my other post on the this forum: "photos of sport / cutting.."? The cutting is fresher than it looks in the photo, because of the flash and the white background. I'm thinking of cutting the stem at point C, then I'll have the heel wood, because another propagation advise web page said don't use stem on stem. Then my cutting will only be 5 or 6 inches long. I'm thinking of keeping the branch that does not have the sport, just because the cutting may be more likely to take (?) but I don't know. The places where the stem is breaking dormancy, I don't know if I should keep or not. I took off the ones at the bottom because I don't want canes forming from low on the cutting, ie, I'm trying to encourage the life force up towards the sport. I'm afraid it I cut too many places on the stem, the cutting will be traumatized. ? I'm just guessing! Also I wonder if cutting on the stem, and then putting it in a moist environment right away, will encourage rot. Maybe it should be in a dry environment while the scabs are healing over. So many Questions!

Carol, I am going to write you an email right now.

Thanks again,
from Gala

I'm sorry that I called you Carol, Connie!
It was so nice hearing from you, and I feel more encouraged. Have you seen the website of George Mander?

http://www3.telus.net/georgemander/articles/cut_from_cut.html

This is what I'm trying to set up.

He has a slide show of his "Primitive technique" he calls it that because he doesn't use a misting box. Have you seen anyone try it? Thank-you for warning me about spider mites.

Wish I had more time. This isn't the only thing I have to do!

-G

Has it rooted yet or did it die?

get someone to bud it off for you.

Did this lady die? What happened to her rose?