I don't think they're compatible. If the roses are already leafed out, they lack the stored nutrients to carry them through the callus process. You have to remove the leaves to wrap or they will rot. Terrarium needs some foliage to produce food while they root for best results. Learn to bud and you won't have to deal with the frustration you're having right now. Use the wraps to root your rootstocks. I just learned from George Vardan in Australia who brought the method to Paul Barden's attention that a commercial nurseryman there wraps his Fortuniana stocks to pre callus them. Before they form roots, he bundles them, takes them to the fields then jams them into the soil to finish rooting.

I wrapped and rooted Pink Clouds (the flowering "bands" I've posted here) so I have that for root stock now. I've transplanted some of the IXL I wrapped and rooted last year so those are now getting ready to be budded. You're going to receive material which isn't suitable for either method, where budding is the best solution. I just received material from two, unreleased Moore roses Saturday which are leafed out and in flower, but too soft to attempt without mist, so they're getting budded in the morning before the rains come on Wednesday. Kim

Im new and trying to follow the correct procedure here. If you do get calluses then should you continue to wrap and they will form roots? And you should not allow leaves/sprouts to form?

The gentleman who first brought this to the attention of the person I heard it from has filled in the origin information. A commercial nurseryman in Australia wraps his Fortuniana root stocks to callus them. He removes them from the wraps after they've callused and BEFORE they form roots. He bundles them together at the callus stage to take them to the fields where they are pushed in to the ground. The callus tissue is fairly hard and durable. If there are roots they are easily damaged. The calluses form roots in the fields where they continue developing until budded.

If you've gotten callus by the two week period, I would plant them. The longer you leave them in the dark, the more stored nutrients they will use without being able to replace them. By planting them deeply in the pots or cups so the majority of the stems are buried in damp, dark, cool soil with the remainder in the light, the green tissue of the stems will begin creating chlorophyll to feed the cutting. As long as conditions are within tolerance, they should keep right on developing and forming roots in the soil. That's my suggestion and what I've found works best here so far. It's what I posted on the March 9, March Wrapping Update on my blog about wrapping cuttings. Good luck! Kim

Here is a link that might be useful: March Wrapping Update