Hi Kate,

I'll send you an email tonight answering your questions.

Hey Mike. Thanks I'll look for it this evening.

Kate

Also I would like to know if people use the method found on Paul Barden's website (actually the author here is Mel Hulse)

Link below. Thanks.

Kate

Here is a link that might be useful: Mel Hulse and propagation

Yes, I've read the rose rustler's method, and it's good. I use cuttings with only 2 or 3 buds. I cut straight across right below the lowest bud, and I include one or two leaves associated with the top one or two buds. I trim the leaves if they are big, to help them fit - I actually use a tray of peat pots covered with a humididome, instead of a baggie, but the baggie method is less complicated, and gives similar results.
The method I use is more similar to the George Mander modification, but the basic principle is the same. I stay away from using a heel, I prefer to cut directly below a bud. Your cuttings will get plenty of moisture, either in a baggie, covered with a pop bottle, or covered with a humididome. I actually crack open the vent on my humididome just about right away, but the baggie/pop bottle/humididome will have condensation on it, which tells you that the air is basically saturated with water, and so the leaves will only lose tiny or no amounts of water. Apparently the rose rustler says the rooting compound is not essential. Myself, I make a hole in the medium, drizzle some rooting gel into the hole, and put the cutting in, then firm the medium around it. I buy the gel with the fungicide. I prefer to grow on my cuttings under a shoplight garden over the winter. In my northern climate, this makes a huge difference, because my outdoor growing season is short. If you have a long growing season, this may not be as important, but indoors you can grow your cuttings with the lights on continuously, you will get quite a fine bush by the next spring, and you can take cuttings from cuttings the way George Mander does. Sativa.