I use a liquid gel called Wilson's Roots stimulator, which includes a fungicide.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wilson's Roots

I have been using plain old Rootone from the garden center, which also contains a fungicide, and I have only lost 3 cuttings out of the 80 I stuck in October and November. These 3 were cuttings that were given to me, rather than ones I gathered myself.

I have found that the key to success is more the material you plant the cuttings into, something that holds moisture but isn't heavy and wet, not necessarily the rooting hormone you use. I have been using a 50/50 mixture of Canadian spaghnum moss and Perlite. Both are readily available at any garden center or big box store.

The cuttings I use are at least 4 buds, two above soil and two below. I cut below a node, score the stem on two sides, dip it into Rootone, stick it into a half-gallon milk jug with drain holes cut into the bottom, and slip a 2-liter soda bottle over it. The hard part is leaving it alone and not messing with it over the winter.

Connie

Thanks for the replies.

Rootone has been a main stay for a lot of types of propagation according to what I have read on their site and other forums.

Wilson Root stimulator looks like a similar product to Dip-and-Grow. I bought this product (Dip-and-Grow) to use with some hardwood cuttings I want to propagate. The ease of use would seem to make this a desirable product.

How ever it seems that I read on this site recently, or maybe on a different site, a passing reference to this product and a less than satisfied performance with rose cuttings. I was hoping some one may have used it and would share their results.

Thanks again for the replies.

Dan

Dan,
Malcolm Manners uses it; go to his web site. He has an excellent link on rooting roses in which he uses rhizopon.
However, I emailed him once directly and he often uses DnG.
He gave me the ratio he uses for roses. I don't have it anymore.
Google him, go to his website and check out his links. Then email him if necessary; he is very good about replying.
Please post his ratio on here please and I'll print it out this time!
Good luck,
Jim

Jim,

Thanks for sharing the info on Dr. Manners. I have just recently found the same info on the web that you refer to.

Dr. Manners performed a study on hormones that included Rhizopon #3 powder and D&G liquid. He states in the article I read that these were the hormones he had the best success with and D&G was used with best results in a 1/5 dilution ratio.

Below is a description on a 2oz. D&G pack that include manufacturers dilution recommendations in the info (cut and paste).

http://www.rosemania.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/product255.html

Other site below.

Thanks again!

Dan

Here is a link that might be useful: Info on horemones

I think one has to be careful about root hormones. I suppose they do work to some extent but it's all guess work. The major factors affecting sucess rate is not about root hormones. I suspect root hormones may give you more roots if used correctly.

One issue about root hormones is that you need to make sure it sticks around for long enough to work. If you dip the cutting into the hormone then water the rooting bed within 1 day then it probably wash all the good hormone away! In a professional facility they don't have this problem because they use prfessional misting nozzles that spray a fine mist over the leaves of the cuttings. So you don't have the problem of water washing away the hormone.

If you root in a bag, you don't have this problem but the air circulation problem is the one that can ruin the lot. Without air circulation fungus and bacteria set feed on the cuttings. That creates a a host of complex issues like sterilsation and how to get disease free cuttings ...

It's more important to look at issues like the timing. If cuttings are taken at the right time of the year they have entered a cycle of nature. The best time to root is when the cycle switchto "growth". At this point in time the cuttings will attempt to grow by itself. It will produce chemicals to encourage rooting and fighting against disease.

One typical example is take a rose stem (leave it on the bush). Trim it back a little and strip away all the leaves of the top 10 nodes. Then observe it over 2 weeks. The stem will harden, become more woody and the leaf buds near the top will become plumb. What this means is that the rose stem is preparing itself for a growth phase. The amount of nitrogen and sugar in the stem will decrease giving place to a "cooler" kind of energy reserve that won't let bacteria feed easily. Then it will be flush with natural growth hormones created by the rose itself. This kind of cuttings will want to grow. So when you stick it down it will start growing new leaves immediately.

I have never put much faith in rooting hormones because I don't have professional grade misting nozzles. I beleive professional growers have facilities that make better use of root hormones.

"One typical example is take a rose stem (leave it on the bush). Trim it back a little and strip away all the leaves of the top 10 nodes. Then observe it over 2 weeks. The stem will harden, become more woody and the leaf buds near the top will become plumb. What this means is that the rose stem is preparing itself for a growth phase. The amount of nitrogen and sugar in the stem will decrease giving place to a "cooler" kind of energy reserve that
won't let bacteria feed easily. Then it will be flush with natural growth hormones created by the rose itself. This kind of cuttings will want to grow. So when you stick it down it will start growing new leaves immediately. "

dmaivn,

Thanks for posting this information. I consider my self a novice in this area, so information like this is always helpful.

I have sat through two different programs at local rose seminars where nationally known rose growers spoke about moon phases as an important element in deciding when to take cuttings. While we all must take given information and apply it to our settings, I do recognize that nature can greatly enhance the success ratio of how our cuttings root. The subject of the use of hormones or not using hormones in propagation is one I have seen discussed many times before, pro and con.

But I agree with you that there are many other conditions that are actually more important in propagating a cutting. Some cultivars root quicker than others. I recently read a post on this forum from another member that using a good media that will break down slow enough to give that cultivar a chance to root and allow air circulation around the new roots to help offset disease that kill off newly roots plants. I have lost cuttings to this type of problem after they root because of to much moisture that restricted air flow when misting. I do mist, but I am still learning how to do it properly.

Thanks for the reply.

Dan