Do a google.com search for 'amaryllis' and follow the directions found there - they are the same for Clivia. I put mine outdoors in the shade for the summer months, then bring it inside into my basement for the winter, not watering it at all. Mine blooms in May or June.

Some knowledgeable people disagree about whether clivias really need to be pot-bound to bloom. I finally have flower stalks on a clivia for the first time ever after being careful to let it dry out near the end of the summer, then keeping it cool (around 50 degrees Fahrenheit) until the stalks appeared. In the temparate US, balancing the need to bring things in as temperatures drop in the fall with the fact that we usually have central heating is tough. I kept my clivia in an unheated room.

I think what Kay described also accomplishes the cooling - just at the other end of the winter. My method will give me blooms soon - more of interest to me than blooms in May or June. In my experience, Hippeastrums (what we call amaryllis) do need the drying out period, but don't need the chill to bloom.

Plant maturity affects blooming. If they are too potbound the leaves seem do develop burned tips. That may be because I live in a warmer climate, however. I just repotted some mature clivia so the roots would have more room & they are beginning to put out a bud stalk. Some of the clivia in local parks are also presently blooming. Temperatures are 70-80 in the day and about 40 at night.