The simplest method is to take cuttings down to green wood, not tip growth with weak stems, or stems with bark forming. I use the "asparagus" method to determine the point to cut the stem. If you grasp the stem below the point where bark forms, then bend the top back, you should see the area where the tip growth stops being supple and stiffens. This is the area where you make the cut. The bottom third of the cutting will have its leaves stripped off. It is good to have a node or two under the rooting medium, since side shoots will start from these points and allow the plant to form secondary leader stems. If the plant gets sheared at ground level, it will have a much better chance to send out new growth.

The stock plant should be in a rapid growth stage for optimal cuttings. If it is dormant, the cuttings will take forever to root and be weak.

Use a sterile medium like vermiculite or perlite, definitely not water or soil as the rooting medium. Bottom heat at 70 to 80 degrees will speed the rooting. I don't use rooting hormone any more, but fungicide might still be useful, especially if the rooting medium is cold and wet.

It usually takes 2 weeks or more for cuttings to root, and another 2-3 weeks for the plant to develop a good root system.

I use 50/50 perlite/potting mix and get 100% rooting, though I think they will root in almost anything.

Thanks, I picked up some root hormone and potting mix at Home Depot but I didn't see any plain perlite. Where does one buy it?

Guess I'm ready to give this a try. I have a lot of little 4" containers that I saved from the last batch of starts that I bought.

I was planning on doing it on my patio where I have filtered sunlight and the current temps are in the 80s during the day and 60s at night. Sound about right?

I found my huge, light green bag of perlite inside my Home Depot, near the indoor plants. It was stocked high up, so an employee had to climb up and get it for me. :)

Brenda

I have rooted Salvia greggii cuttings by just sticking them in the ground (we have clay soil) in a spot that is shaded from hot afternoon sun. Our soil is moisture-retentive enough that it doesn't go dry too quickly. I don't give them a lot of water, just enough to keep the soil damp but not wet. I've had about 90% success. In other words, while Richard posted the most tried-and-true best method, you probably will get results even if you don't do everything perfectly.... so, don't worry. :-)

Jen