Is this just a leaf cutting or does it have roots. A six inch pot is big. A small clay pot would be a better choice I would think. If it does not have roots you will see an very small plant develop very slowly. It will take a long time for roots to develop to fill even a little bitty pot. Right now, you need a pot that will protect it from tipping over.

I did use a rooting hormone that I got from HD on a leaf that I rooted. I have always heard that you don't need to water anything that does not have roots. I just sprayed my plant whenever it seemed shriveled. But maybe a moist perlite might quicken the process.

Big pots of sans could be at risk for rotting. I have seen very large plants in 12 inch pots. I have had an over potted sans that I got from HD rot away-it is not a pleasant sight-leaf after leaf... mush mush mush

Hi Carol,

Less is more w/ these plants, they prefer crappy soil & lots of neglect. Overwatering is the one sure way to kills Sans. plants.

Smaller pots are best, that's enough callous time I think & I'd pot the 2 cuttings together. If they have no roots, just pot them in a 3-4" plastic or clay pot but DO NOT WATER IN. Don't use moist perlite, that's a sure way to kill 'em. Plants w/out roots can't take up water & Sans. are likely to rot in those circumstances. It's likely to be years before these plants want a 20" pot.

Those soils can have water rention crystals & or fertilizer (as you discovered). If there's a label check that out. If you can get C&S soil & add perlite, that'd be great. Otherwise, use whatever you've got & add 50% perlite. Fast draining is the most important thing here; careful watering 2nd most. When in doubt, don't water; Sans can endure lack of water & survive dryness much more easily than they can survive too much water (results in rot & mush, from which there is NO return).

Rooting hormone is entirely unnecessary, the fungicide would be good, but if yours doesn't have it don't bother. If you're really worried, a dusting of cinnamon will act as an antifungal (I learned this at the Orchid Forum). I rarely bother w/ that & I have 13 different Sans, most of which I've grown from leaves.

Push the leaves down into the mix, if necessary use a couple of rocks to help prop them upright, sometimes they need that support until they drop some roots which will hold them in place.

This can take a very long time to get going, so pls. be patient, don't tug on the leaves, & water lightly in abt 2 wks, then once a month, eventually, you'll see a couple of shoots break the surface & you can gradually start watering more. Pls. be advised I've had this take as much as a year.

Good for you for spelling Sansevieria correctly (few people do) & for such diligent, intelligent preparation. Sounds like your plants will be lucky to have such a good home!

I am from the ole' school. I pop just about everything into a small mason jar half filled with water. I then place it in a sunny window. And behold after time, the leaf will spout a new plant at the bottom. I feel this is a very easy, uncomplicated way to reproduce plants. I am also an avid african violet lover. Let me know what you think.....

Do not use water to root down Sansevieria. I have been propagating them for the past 17 years for the Huntington Gardens. Set them directly into damp soil if they have roots, and you may water again weekly during the summer, now is the time to start them or divide them or start new cuttings, wait at least a week when you do water again.
Take a chop stick to measure if it needs water, test as if it was a cake. Don't water it it comes up wet.
They love the heat but not direct sun, and may need a nurse plant. They need sun to grow. The plants need their own pot, but do not swamp them with size. Put the plant into the smallest one it will fit into. They need fresh air so they don't get mold. They will need heat above 55F and little water at that time of the year.( Winter) They will need bone meal in the soil and extra pumice/or perlite for drainage. In the tropics they do well with the rain every day. Some species are slow growing, others a little faster.
They are not known to have pests. I water as night so I don't get water spots, if so I use a little vinegar in the water and wipe them off carefully, I usually water each one by hand at the soil line and rim of the pot and not down in the cluster of leaves, you don't want water to sit at the base of the plant cluster. Some speies about 75 at this time, send out runners others offset at the base of the plant, and many change appearance as they grow into adults. They do not die after they flower, they offset, the mother staying alive for years producing babies, You may start her over again to renew her and she will act like a teenager again. We have never used rooting hormone in the 17 years I have volunteered. We have experimented with it and found it a waste of time and cost. I have just finished doing 45 flats of plants and need to start on the next 45. I also start them by cutting up the leaves into 6" pieces to start them. Do not do this on the sports, or variegated plants, only on the species, each single leaf will start a plant as well, but we need 100+ before we can offer them for sale. Karen you did an excellent job explaining congratulations, I so proud of you I can pop. Karen I just pop up my leaf cuttings against the side of the pot. I only use 2" of soil to start the leaves in. Did we leave anything out? Norma