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on_greenthumb

Tall Full Shade Plant

on_greenthumb
12 years ago

My backyard is relatively shady and I've had lots of success with Astilbes, Hostas, Carex, Masterwort, Lungworts, etc.

My issue right now are the two emerald cedars I planted. One is definitely suffering more than the other. The one that is suffering more (right) than the other. It's hard to tell in the photos, but it is really dark (even the mirror isn't helping a whole lot except for me....not the plants)



I'm thinking about replacing them. That was them last year and they're worse this year. Trouble is that I love their height (they're around 4-5' and it's tough to find anything else that will do well there that is as high. I was thiking about replacing the one on the left with a Hicks Yew in Pyramidal form, but I'm at a loss for what to do with the one on the right (which has denser shade)....You can kind of see the ivy which is starting to cover the fence and the Kerria in front of it, but that leaves a gap between the Kerria and the ivy of about 5' deep by 4' wide with nothing in it.....I have also considered maybe doing some kind of a water feature back here, but it's really far from any current power source....

Thoughts would be appreciated!

Comments (11)

  • marquest
    12 years ago

    For a water feature they have the solar pumps. The area is so pretty. I like what you have done with the area. I would move the shurbs since they are not doing good and do some hardscape so your water feature is a good idea.

    I do not have an idea for a replacement shrub. Maybe check the shrub and conifer forum and see if they have some suggestions.

  • madisonkathy
    12 years ago

    Goatsbeard (aruncus) might do well there. They get about 6' tall, have tall astilbe-like plumes that also look great in the winter.

  • on_greenthumb
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Thanks guys - I'm still torn about the water feature. Its right in the corner and from the angle from the fire pit, it woudl be completely hidden, plus water source and electrical are quite far away - it would have to be tall to support that corner.....might have to squeeze it in closer to the shed.

    Goatsbeard is an intriguing thought.....I have a lot of astilbes in the garden right there too....my husband loves the flowers. I thought Goatsbeard was a little tough to control though??

    I was also thinking Cimicifuga. The foliage should get to about 4' tall with flower spikes up to 6'......I'd prefer something with winter interest though (since that corner is clearly visible from my house throughout the winter).

  • madisonkathy
    12 years ago

    I wish my goatsbeard was tough to control! Imo, it doesn't spread enough (gets about 2' wide here). Dave's Garden has a few reviews. (I'd leave a link, but that web site has been marked as spam here, and as such is blocked).

  • tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
    12 years ago

    Cimicifuga (now Actea) will work and the spent blooms last almost through December for me. Any conifer will eventually outgrow the spot (they don't stop growing). Before trying another conifer you may need to figure out why the Thuja occidentalis 'Emerald' are failing. How long have they been there, how were they planted and watered, etc. Arborvitae are usually pretty tough. And be aware that 'Emerald' would want to be 15 feet high and 3-4 feet wide some day (and keep growing from there).

    tj

  • mandolls
    12 years ago

    What about Rhododendron? They are fuller, gorgeous when they bloom in the spring, and nice dark shiny leaves all sumer, and hold their leaves even in WI winters. Mine get no direct sun.

  • on_greenthumb
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    I've got the cimicifuga in another area of the garden....I think for most of the year it's just too short :) I really like the idea of the rhodies though.....My little one is just coming into bloom and I fell in love with the purple ones at Canada blooms this year.

    Tsuga - I think the arborvitae really are struggling because of the lack of sun plus they got a lot of snow mold in the first winter. I'm looking at them now and they just aren't looking healthy. I am so hesitant to try with them again (I don't know if it's because I didn't wrap them in the winters and so their branches got broken or if they really just don't like the snow). If you look at the pics and look at the fence, you can see the snow line pretty clearly just above the lower crossbrace. I would be very happy if I could keep these and just grow the foliage to cover their now bare legs....Do you think if I put some kind of structural support around the branches, they could regain their vertical shape? The photos were from last season and the damage is substantially more this season....and it's on both (the one on the left doesn't look so bad.)

  • tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
    12 years ago

    Ontario should not be a problem for them. Thuja occidentalis grow up into the zone 3 snowbelt of Wisconsin where young plants that size are buried in snow, not sure if 'Emerald' is any less hardy. Look for plants with a single leader and snowload won't be an issue. It is all in getting them established with proper watering and planting. Root care is everything, teasing them out before planting, checking for moisture 2-3 inches down with your finger. Judging from the pix, there is enough ambient light for them.

  • on_greenthumb
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Yup - did all of that.....These are not new plants from last year - they're now 4 years old....I'll take a picture in the morning....the one on the right looks about the same as last year and the one on the left is looking much sadder.

    Even my local home nursery lady was surprised, but suggested that the black cedar or white cedar might be a good option for replacement if I do decide to go that way.....I'm not so worried about the snow mold because I've planted in front of them to hide their "legs" (my neighbours evergreen did something similar, although it's not an emerald cedar). I'm more concerned that they are no longer pyramidal in shape and seem to be flopping at the tops. (The one on the right in the pics doesn't have the top lopped off, it's just flopped over)

  • freki
    12 years ago

    Have you added any soil? Cedars HATE to have their roots buried. Try scraping off some soil and giving them a good soaking (emeralds like their water), see if they perk up.

    Black lace elder are supposed to be shade tolerant, not very big (for an elder), and can be pruned for size. Very striking leaves, like a japanese maple. I haven't had mine in a year yet, so I can't tell you how successful they are, but elder are pretty tough.

  • shadydeergardener
    12 years ago

    Any advice for a TALL and DEEP SHADE tree/shrub that is also truly DEER PROOF?