Every two weeks should not be too soon. The time to turn compost is after the temperature peaks and is starting downward. Those that make compost in 14 days turn much more frequently then you do.

Here is a link that might be useful: Compost in 14 days

It depend what you put in the pile. Greens, rich in nitrogen can activate it. Warm air can also give it a boost.
But if what you have is mostly fall leaves, and the weather is cold, rains and snows on it a lot, then you may not get a hot compost pile. But given enough time every pile will eventually break down at much slower rate. Where I am, besides being cold now, it also rains a lot. So I cover my pile with a tarp. In case it dries up, I can pour some water on it. Beside the micro organisms, the worms also need to stay warm in order to become active. I count on worms more than the micro organism.

You have not mentioned core compost temperature, so I presume you have not been using a compost thermometer. You can find a simple 18" one for as little as twenty bucks. This will tell quite a bit and you don't even have to turn one pitchfork over.

The 'right' time to turn a pile over! Ha! Like everything else in the world it depends.

In a cold pile, where particle size, compost pile size, C:N ratio, moisture; are not close to optimal; it does not matter that much. Turning it over each day will still not give you hot or warm compost.

My backyard compost pile now reads 128F in the core. It is only 18" high. It ONLY consists of fallen oak, sweet gum and maple leaves.
But I have ten years of experience in composting. The leaves are shredded. I add water when necessary. The leaves were collected the week I considered the best -- one week ago. So I expected a core temp of 120 to 130F. The mesh bin is 4'by8'by18" high.

So back to the basic question, when should you turn the pile? I used to turn when the core temp reached or approached 160F. But now I turn when the core is around 130F.

There would be a few exceptions. If I put a bunch of smelly fish parts into the core at 130F, I would not turn it regardless of the core temp, for at least 10 days. I want the smelly stuff to dissolve and eliminate any odors.

When I have a hot pile, I may turn it over every three or four days. When your fork reveals grey material in the center, that might be a sign that you could turn more frequently.

My compost takes about four months to make. I have learned to ignore the advertising of folks who want to sell you their composting system. My tumbler promised '14 day compost'. What is really means is the first stage of composting might be done in 14 days.

If you are trying to achieve high temperatures (hot composting) in bins or piles, turning is most often based on temperatures (tumblers can be handled a little differently). If you are cold composting, turning can be whatever you like to do. More frequent turning will even out the moisture and go a long way to preventing dry areas where not much decomp is taking place. Some folks don't turn at all and decomp still takes place.

Lloyd

Good solid research, as well as my experience and the experience of many others, shows compost with the right C:N ratio and just enough but not too much moisture, can reach those 135 to 145 degree temperatures in 2 to 3 days and those peaks will start downward after that.
As the link I posted above shows finished compost can be made in 14 days by very aggressive methods.

I add approx. 10 gallons of used coffee grounds each week which I collect from two sources. Starbucks is also a great source for UCG's. Sounds like you could use more greens right now.

Since Kimmsr repeated his statement that compost may be made in 14 days for a second time, I will cut and paste my comments on the thread "Is 14 day compost possible".

Cornell Composting
Glossary of Composting Terms

'Curing - the last stage of composting that occurs after much of the readily metabolized material has been decomposed. Provides for additional stabilization and reduction of pathogens and allows further decomposition of cellulose and lignin.'

'Mature Compost - the stabilized and sanitized product of composting; it has undergone decomposition and is in the process of stabilization. It is characterized as containing readily available forms of plant nutrients; it is low in phytotoxic acids.'

University of Vermont
Office of Sustainability
"How long does it take a batch of compost to cure fully?"
"Typically, in a conventional "windrow composting" method, the process of mixing, pile building, active phase composting, curing and finishing could take 6 - 9 months."

Cornell Composting
Frequently Asked Questions
by Nancy Trautmann and Tom Richard
"Under optimum conditions, thermophilic composting with frequent mixing or turning can produce useable compost within a month or two. A worm bin requires three to six months to turn food scraps to compost, and an unmanaged leaf pile may take more than a year to break down.

In general, it is best to let compost "cure" for several months even after it appears finished. During this additional time, degradation occurs at a slower rate, resulting in a more chemically stable end product."

My one book devoted to composting "Easy Compost" Brooklyn Botanic Garden, suggests at least a 30 day curing/cooling off/whatever you want to call it period.

Since Kimmsr repeated his statement that compost may be made in 14 days for a second time, I will cut and paste my comments on the thread "Is 14 day compost possible".

Cornell Composting
Glossary of Composting Terms

'Curing - the last stage of composting that occurs after much of the readily metabolized material has been decomposed. Provides for additional stabilization and reduction of pathogens and allows further decomposition of cellulose and lignin.'

'Mature Compost - the stabilized and sanitized product of composting; it has undergone decomposition and is in the process of stabilization. It is characterized as containing readily available forms of plant nutrients; it is low in phytotoxic acids.'

University of Vermont
Office of Sustainability
"How long does it take a batch of compost to cure fully?"
"Typically, in a conventional "windrow composting" method, the process of mixing, pile building, active phase composting, curing and finishing could take 6 - 9 months."

Cornell Composting
Frequently Asked Questions
by Nancy Trautmann and Tom Richard
"Under optimum conditions, thermophilic composting with frequent mixing or turning can produce useable compost within a month or two. A worm bin requires three to six months to turn food scraps to compost, and an unmanaged leaf pile may take more than a year to break down.

In general, it is best to let compost "cure" for several months even after it appears finished. During this additional time, degradation occurs at a slower rate, resulting in a more chemically stable end product."

My one book devoted to composting "Easy Compost" Brooklyn Botanic Garden, suggests at least a 30 day curing/cooling off/whatever you want to call it period.

Check out this link on 18 day composting.
Even if you don't use it, a very interesting read

http://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/hot-compost-composting-in-18-days/

OTOH, if it's winter and you won't be using the compost till spring, who cares how long it takes?

When I had a 3-bin system, I ran it a bit different from yours. I would turn several times a year, either when the 3d bin got used or the first bin got too full. 2 turned into 3, 1 into 2, and a new batch started in bin 1. My bins were each smaller than the one before, so each batch filled the next bin it was turned into.

If the piles are shrinking, you might consider combining the two, freeing up a bin to make a new batch. It can cure and finish till spring w/o turning, if you like.

I do understand you're wanting to get fast compost though, and there is good advice in this thread.

"... who cares how long it takes?"

1) all the folks who buy tumblers, compost accelerators, and all the other stuff said to reduce the time of compost production.
2) those who like to put down compost early and not wait until spring.
3) me (who regrets buying a tumbler). It was $350 bucks after all, even if it rusted in four years and I gave it away.
4) the average impatient American gardener. It would be nice if gardeners had patience, right, it is nature after all, but the word 'early' is used quit a bit on seed packets.

"... who cares how long it takes?"

1) all the folks who buy tumblers, compost accelerators, and all the other stuff said to reduce the time of compost production.
2) those who like to put down compost early and not wait until spring.
3) me (who regrets buying a tumbler). It was $350 bucks after all, even if it rusted in four years and I gave it away.
4) the average impatient American gardener. It would be nice if gardeners had patience, right, it is nature after all, but the word 'early' is used quit a bit on seed packets.

toxcrusdr is giving the OP the same advice I gave in a thread at least a month ago to the OP.

Hello now...hear/heed good advice

Floral -- but we all love to argue that our way is the best way!

Japus - I looked at the 18 day composting site Deep Green Permaculture.

Right now my mesh bins are 18" high, easy to turn. This site says 1.5 m tall -- thats 59". How many folks will want to turn it over the suggested every two days?

Many of the C:N numbers seem simplistic. One number for all leaves, sawdust, paper? Stabilization is completely ignored.

I'd suggest that composters who want to get a better understanding of some aspects of composting go to the Cornell site.

From now, till about March, in most locations in US, temperatures will be near or below freezing. Even if it averages in low 40s, it will not be possible to have a warm compost pile. Most will freeze. So , I will let my pile just be there, covered with a tarp,. I will check back sometime in March. I want it to be done for next fall. Mine takes about 9 months to finish. All I do is just leaves and some grass clippings ; NO kitchen scraps etc. .

This post was edited by seysonn on Mon, Dec 2, 13 at 0:28

The C:N ratio of material varies, Robert. from around 40 to 80 to 1 for leaves to 100 something to 1 for sawdust to around 170:1 for newspaper.

Here is a link that might be useful: One list of C:N ratios

"From now, till about March, in most locations in US, temperatures will be near or below freezing. Even if it averages in low 40s, it will not be possible to have a warm compost pile."

Not correct.

The ambient temp last night was a low of 23 and a high today of maybe 33F during the day. My core temp was 115F of my compost pile 4'x8'x18" high one hour ago. Repeat, the pile is only 18 inches high. If I had wished to impress my neighbors with a high core temp, I would have made it 24" or 30" high.

A larger compost pile can both have a frozen crust, and a nice core temp at the same time. Many folks will look at the outer frozen shell of the compost pile (maybe consisting of woody bulking agent with too much water), and not be aware that anything is going on in the interior. But anyone with a compost thermometer can tell that there is both mesophilic and thermophilic activity.

Kimmsr -

Forty to one to 80:1 -- this seems more like a range of various leaf species mixes.

I suggest that Cornell's "On-Farm Handbook" is the best source of C:N values. It usually lists ranges, and is more comprehensive than other lists.

Looking at the article you referred to:

"Oak leaves 26:1
Leaves, varies from 35:1 to 85:1"

Most oak leaves fall off the tree long after they turn brown. I get the impression that somewhere along the line the word 'green' was misplaced.

"Even if it averages in low 40s, it will not be possible to have a warm compost pile."

We get a lot colder up here and I've had snow melting off the tops of windrows through the entire winter. Sure the outside may be frozen but internally it could be quite toasty.

Lloyd

I'm here in Central Florida and by 24inch high compost pile had a core temperature of 120 degrees on day 2. It's now on day 9 and it's down to 100 degrees. I'll be turning it in the morning.

Ingredients...even amounts of dairy cow manure, straw (about 70% of pile), about 10% leaf mold, some unfinished compost from another pile (about 10%) and 10% coffee grounds. Will add more manure, straw & some alfalfa when I turn it tomorrow.

My goal is 140 degrees tops!! I'll turn it again when it gets down to 100 degrees. I keep mine covered with a tarp.

Not correct.

The ambient temp last night was a low of 23 and a high today of maybe 33F during the day. My core temp was 115F of my compost pile 4'x8'x18" high one hour ago. Repeat, the pile is only 18 inches high"
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Hard to believe ... 18" deep ??
My pile at the peak is over 2 feet high.
I will check my pile. What I got is mostly fall leaves. When I made the pile , the stuff was already wet. Then I put a tarp on it, b/c we get a lot of rain.

Just to clarify - I didn't say or intend to imply that compost would not continue to work during the winter. Only that the OP had effectively missed out on more than a month of optimum,(ie warm weather with lots of materials around) composting time worrying about the minutiae of bin design.

Indeed, and I would add that even if a pile is warm NOW, in November, it probably won't stay that way. A pile that's made out of fresh materials that is heating right now, probably won't stay warm all winter. After the hot phase tails off, those cold temps will eventually catch up to it and it will of course freeze up.

OK, hot compost flame suit on, waiting for someone to post that their house-sized pile is hot in the center all winter... :-]

Yup. I'm gonna. The Brewer compost facility (1 1/2 stories tall) steams away all winter long. I knew I should have taken pictures today! 22 F. -5.5 C.

I have had my compost working and holding core temperatures in the low 100 degrees in January when the ambient air temperatures were near zero. How well ones compost will work depends somewhat on the volume and a 4 x 4 x 4 pile will be more apt to hold temperatures than would a 4 x 4 x 2 pile.

My once 4 X 4 X 4 pile is now 4 X 4 X 2
It needs to be screened now as it's mostly finished.
I laid a cover 2 feet above it to keep rain off till next spring.
The items seen in this image shows what I will be picking up all winter, wonder if I should cover this finished pile with some ?
Another pile will be receiving these also along with carbon's.

Geez, I would eat half of that dude. Just don't tell the store you're doing it. :-]

Well dude !
This particular store is apparently doing things right.
I wouldn't think of doing anything to undermine my contact with them, not only the store but the people who are getting these for me.
Also the photo's look much better than the actual items and my garden needs the nourishment more than I do.

I checked my compost pile today: NOTHING noticeable happening. I put some more stuff in there and I sprinkled some finished compost on it and covered it with tarp. Everything is still wet(even being covered from rain). Come March, I will check it again. I am not in hurry, really that bad.
I wish you all a very HOT and STEAMING compost.

seysonn

Just my experience.

I made a 4 x 4 x4 compost pile (manure, shredded leaves, and garden waste) about 3 weeks ago and until ~5 days ago it was still in the 150 degree range. When I pulled the compost thermometer out 3 days ago, it was warm to within 6 inches of the exterior. This was with 10-20 degree nites and 30 - 40 degree days. It will now settle in, continue to cool, and freeze until late february/early march...

Now on to planning for the 2014 garden.

One major factor in deciding how large a compost pile one needs to retain the core heat -- particle size.

I agree that IN GENERAL, a 4'by4'by4' high compost pile will retain heat better than a 4'by4'by2' high pile. But I can certainly see a 4by4by2' with shredded leaves retaining heat better than a 4by4by4 pile with medium or large wood chips.

Who wants to turn over a three or four foot high pile? Not me. I find turning a large pile only 18" or 24" high to be easier on my back than cranking a tumbler.

One time in 14 years a heavy snow melted and lowered the core temp. On that occasion the tarp should have been loosely covering the pile.

Keep in mind that 4'by4'by4' is fine if you wanted to have your pile on stilts. But if your pile is resting on the ground like most are; the ground acts to store heat. So you can reduce the four foot height without losing core heat. How much? I'm not sure, but I have not had a compost pile more than two feet high for the last five years. Bear in mind that my piles are fairly tight, medium-fine shredded leaves are my 'brown'.

Summer core temps run around 150F with a decent mix

I will give my pile good 6 months to work.
It is mostly leaves plus one load of grass clipping, plus some garden clippings all sprinkled with some finished compost and a bit of coffee ground. I have some worms in there. Hopefully they will start working on it in co operation with the microbes. I won't need any compost till May, anyway. Right now I am just watching my garlic, onions, leeks and shallots standing in the cold and even growing. Viva La Allium. haha

One reason many folks have problems with their first few compost piles is bad information. There are quite a few sites devoted to composting, green living, etc. Often there is bad info, myths, do-it-my-way-composting, info past its prime and so one.

There are two short articles I would recommend. One is a page plus, the other three pages.

"Four Stages of Compost" from the Humanure Handbook. This short recommends a one year curing period, I would substitute one to three months for a 'regular' compost pile. Most of us will not be using Humanure.

"Compost Physics" Cornell Composting. Cornells web site would be my choice if I had to recommend just one scientific-but-readable site. The best list of C:N values I am aware of, all the way to 'Make a compost pile in a 2 liter bottle'. I am not saying GW's S,C,M isn't valuable, it is for getting a personal response. But these two shorts are better than anything I could write. And I did write two our original FAQs.

After seeing japus' post I may ask my Giant Eagle for their scraps. I doubt they will get rid of veggies that look as good as those pictured, though. I just wonder if the bunny poo mixed with my leaves is just as good though. I would think the different elements in the veggies would add something in addition to the poo that would be a good addition.

Poaky
Absolutely
ask your local Giant Eagle, my gatherings look good, however much of it is soft and have faded.
Add your bunny poo, horse and cow poo are great also.
Leaves, papers, cardboard, wood chips should be mixed for carbons.
My local Giant Eagle saves it all for a local pig farmer.
Good Luck