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callantx

Is Central Texas hospitable enough for Japanese Maples?

callantx
15 years ago

I live in the hilly center of Texas with an annual rainfall of about 28-30 inches. My soil is sandy loam and I suspect that means very alkaline. Trees that do well where I live are Elms, Live and Post Oaks, Pecans, Mesquite and Juniper ("cedars"), to name a few.

There are long drought periods and lots of intense heat

and sun much of the year. This past year we've seen very

little rain at all.

Still I LOVE Japanese landscapes and would love to introduce some Japanese Maples. I've seen some good deals on them at Home Depot and other stores, but was warned that unless they are kept in heavy shade and have regular watering they will lose their leaves and/or will die. The leaves often do come back when the weather cools, but who wants a bare tree for more than half the year?

I will use as many native plants as possible. For instance, Flame Leaf Sumac is an okay substitute for Maples (they're small, turn a beautiful red/orange in fall and can be pruned to graceful shapes). But it's really not the same.

So here's my question: Shall I skip it or should I buy a few cheap trees and try them in different locations? If so, shall I amend the soil? With what? What should I avoid (besides strong sun)? It is early November and the rainy months are upon us, so if I'm going to transplant some gallon-sized trees, this would probably be a good time to do it. I'm considering planting them as understory below several large live oaks and/or pecans.

I'd especially appreciate hearing from any Texans in my region who have had success in these conditions. I'd also be grateful for any general info about how to go about this.

Thanks!

Comments (2)

  • razorback33
    15 years ago

    You will also need to protect them from strong winds and falling branches from their shade hosts. I have had wind whip the leaders off of trees and had to retrain a new leader, using a side branch. A seemingly small branch from an overhead tree will strip all of the limbs from one side of a small tree or break the top off. They are very prone to this type of damage,
    I haven't had any damage from excessive heat, as long as the roots receive enough moisture to supply the foliage.
    Direct afternoon sun can scorch the leaves, especially if the soil becomes dry. They are shallow rooted trees and water must be provided during long dry periods. A thick layer of mulch helps conserve available soil moisture.
    I would suggest that your soil be ammended with peat and compost, to retain moisture and lower the pH to slightly acidic. I grow about 30 different cultivars and the ones planted in heavy clay soil outperform those in loam or sandy soil, even with amendments. I contribute that to moisture and nutrient retention of the clay.
    If they are reasonably priced, I would give them a chance to succeed in my garden, but me, I listen to no one that says "that plant won't grow here"!
    Good luck!
    Rb

  • suze9
    15 years ago

    I grow them here with success. You might need to baby them a bit for the first year, especially if it is dry, and I would also recommend digging out a 2x2x2 area and amending it before planting. Put your sandy soil in a wheelbarrow and when you fill back in, use at least half compost/peat/good potting mix mixed with what you dug out. Throw in some organic fert if you have it, like maybe some bluebonnet farms, garden tone, alfalfa meal, etc. Some amending is good to get the trees off to a good start, but don't go overboard by filling the hole with 100% potting soil or compost, attempting to push growth with miracle gro, etc, because they will eventually have to get used to your native soil and spread their roots out. They can also be grown in large containers.

    I like to site them where they have some dappled shade during the hottest parts of the day. They work well as understory trees, which is what you are planning. Ever Red (has droopy/weeping branches and highly serrated leaves) does well for me, so do these two red ones I've planted that have upright branches and more of a traditional maple leaf shape - can't recall the cultivar name.

    Good, deep waterings 2x a week (in the absence of rain), especially the first year help to get them established. Also, mulch well. Shredded leaves are great, because they will continue to feed the soil and will also help to keep temp and moisture levels more even.

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