Here's a study. "Bite Blocker (Consep, Inc., Bend, Oregon) is a plant-based repellent that was released in the United States in 1997. Bite Blocker combines soybean oil, geranium oil, and coconut oil in a formulation that has been available in Europe for several years [97]. Studies conducted at the University of Guelph, Ontario, Canada, showed that this product gave more than 97% protection against Aedes mosquitoes under field conditions, even 3.5 hours after application. During the same period, a 6.65% DEET-based spray afforded 86% protection, and Avon Skin-So-Soft citronella-based repellent gave only 40% protection [98]. " Here is a link that might be useful: Mosquito Info

Thank you all for your helpful advice. First of all, let me clarify, that I do value the kitchen designers and meeting with them a few times to gain more insight into their approach, the chemistry, any wow ideas, etc. At the same time, I do have some definite thoughts on what I want to do so I'm hoping the KD can enhance my vision and point out things that could be better done in a different way more efficiently. I am also asking for references. I posted my list because that's the part I am having trouble with since I really want to understand the cabinets and what makes one more expensive or better quality than another. I also would like to know out of curiousity, what is different about the truly highend $250K kitchen and their cabinets vs. the brands I am looking at. Is it an exotic wood? Is it a lot of custom detailing, etc.? The extra money can't all go to the KD. It would also just confirm that I'm doing the right thing given my simple tastes even though the reno budget is less than the 15%-20% of the house but could reach six figures. I like to learn and want to understand the terms e.g., "max door without a stile" is foreign to me but I want to know what the KD is talking about to make an informed decision or to have more influence. For example, I discovered that Woodmode/Brookhaven said they used particle board for the frame and I read about MDF being higher quality than that and plywood even better. So I know that if I go with WM./BH, I will need to factor in an upgrade to plywood. This makes me wonder about all the other things on my list that I sort of know but not really and maybe things that haven't even made the list. Point well taken that there are things beyond the list that I might not know about. However, we did hear about Rutt going into bankruptcy and emerging a different company. However, that doesn't mean that I want to ignore the things I can learn about. The comments about all of the brands, particularly P&F and Rutt being good brands is VERY reassuring and helpful. I will try to focus on them a little more. I happened to look at the Woodmode options for pulls/handles and really didn't like any and figured we would just have to buy those separate. Not sure if that would be the case for the other two. While this wouldn't be a make or break decision on any brand, if I see a trend of a bunch of things that in total are a deal breaker that would be useful to me. Maybe something like the thickness of the drawers or shelves doesn't really matter. Iakuval, first, I hope I've clarified to you that I am looking at the kitchen designer. I did find your segmentation of buyers interesting and am not sure where I fall. Price is important but not the driving thing at least not yet. On shopping for a kitchen, Sure, we have a range of the budget but it's a pretty wide one. Once I see how the costs come in based on my "outcomes" approach of what I want in the kitchen and adding up costs, I can see where I want to cut if it seems unreasonable. On shopping brand/color/door, I think every mfgr has the style I am looking for. Therefore, I do want to compare the quality of the cabinets themselves. But true, If KD and all other things are equal, then a small thing can sway our decision, Roco: I will check out Crown Point, though it is a late entrant. I don't want modern. We like transitional or contemporary but sometimes I've seen what I would call "modern" called contemporary. Maybe it's updated traditional? :) Goosler thank you for the net net of what you think I will find. I operate under those assumptions until I see otherwise. We haven't chosen the GC yet. We are meeting 3 on Tues and hopefully 1 the following week a fifth seems AOL and maybe not up to the job - we want licensed and insured contractors familiar with the permits for our town I will stat another thread when I have time and can find photos. I will call it something like "White Cabinet Kitchen Remodel Follow Up" Thank you all for your comments! I feel so fortunate to have stumbled upon this wealth of minds/knowledge. Plus, everyone seems very welcoming.

FWIW, our range was on site when the counter templaters came and I asked them to leave exactly the amount of space, and they would not---they insisted that it have 1/4" clearance on each side per their policies. They were probably right from the logistical perspective of getting it in and out (especially as we have an old range that is likely not 100% even in its dimensions), but it is really frustrating to have the gap. (We had the same range before, but no counter adjacent to it---while I adore having the counter there, I live in fear of dropping something into the gap!) There are several good older (and one quite recent) threads on various solutions to fill the gap, though, so it's certainly a problem that many people with freestanding ranges have. Caulk seems the most effective if your gap is small but my husband wouldn't let me use it for ours b/c he thought the space was too big. Other suggestions were using shelf liner or window screen folded and tucked into the spot so it catches things that fall but isn't visible aesthetically. I think I'm going to try the screen and see how it goes for us...

Hello, Elizabeth, and welcome to the garden here! We all started out as newbies and we don't feel any question is dumb so feel free to ask away. That's how we all learned. Don't rule out any rose because of it's class. There are lots of beautiful, healthy roses in every class. The trick is to find the ones that work in your yard. That may take time and some trial and error. So be patient and don't give up if you hit a few bumps along the way.. Not all roses do well in all climates. What might be fabulous in California may be a total dud in New York and vice versa. I've seen cases where a rose did great in my yard and horrible down the block in someone else's yard. Location is everything! Sometimes it just takes some time and experimentation to find the right ones for you. Looking at local gardens and contacting local rose societies is a very good place to start. Another good place to start is with a nursery that you know will carry roses that are hardy in your zone. Palatine Nursery is in Canada near Niagra Falls and they carry a great line of hardy roses. They also have very good quality plants, which I can't say Home Depot does. There are lots of other good online nurseries as well but Palatine should be closer to your climate conditions.