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purplemage

getting veg. seeds to germ. and break surface?

purplemage
13 years ago

Hello! I'm new to high desert gardening. I would like to plant vegetable seeds in my garden directly. I am having a hard time keeping the surface of the soil moist enough for germination and the seedlings to break through. Any recommendations? I'm gently watering 2 times a day right now until plants emerge...but it's been just over a week and no signs of breakthrough yet...

Most mulches will blow away with the winds we have, even though I have a good windbreak. I haven't found a source for good mulch either.

I am considering using light colored weed barrier and weighting it down with a light layer of top soil (just enough to hold the fabric in place). I have planted seeds under weed barrier with much success in the past...but that was in Michigan! It really keeps the soil moist, keeps the birds away and the weeds down...any thoughts on whether it would work here?

The way I've done it with seeds is by cutting a slit to accomodate the row and direct sowing the seeds into that slit...then putting a very light covering over the slit...once the seeds germinate and begin to search for light, I uncover the slit and 'help' the seedling come through the slit...then they are usually all set from there!

Comments (2)

  • jordanz
    13 years ago

    I also live in the desert, but in cali. What I have found works best is this. I put the seeds in little ziploc bags sandwiched between a wet papertowel. Put that on top of my water heater (or any good heat source) for 2-3 days. Then just plant them in the ground once I see good germinating going on. That way the seeds germinate nearly instantly, and they'll poke through the ground within a couple days. Saves a lot of time waiting for them to come up.

    I've tried it with peas, pumpkins, cucumbers, and corn and it works great for all of those.

  • fabaceae_native
    13 years ago

    I prefer to direct seed if at all possible, which where I live (arid 7,000 feet elevation) is everything EXCEPT tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, basil, and artichoke grown as an annual, all of these simply due to the long season they require.

    By direct-sowing I can be confident that as soon as germination occurs, the conditions are right for steady growth unhindered by acclimitization delays or transplant shock.

    Purplemage, it sounds like your problem may be soil temperature, not lack of moisture since two waterings daily should be plenty. You might want to grab a soil thermometer and compare the temps to the chart below. As you can see,
    even the low desert is probably not quite ready for some of the warm season crops (corn, beans, tomatoes, peppers, cucurbits, etc).

    On the other hand, I'm already getting germination of my cool season veggies at 7,000 feet.

    A final note: row covers, floating covers, and fabrics do speed germination and retain moisture, but can be more work and expense of course. I mulch right over the larger seeds (corn, peas, beans, cucurbits), and leave the smaller one's uncovered at first.

    Here's that list...
    Soil Temperature Germination Ranges for Select Vegetables
    TEMP (� F) PLANT
    45�85 cabbage, kale, broccoli, collards (germinate well at 85, seedlings prefer 45�65)
    35�80 lettuce and most salad greens (at more than 80, germination rate drops 50%)
    35�75 spinach (optimum 68)
    50�85 onions (optimum 75)
    45�95 radishes (optimum 85)
    50�85 beets, Swiss chard (optimum 85)
    60�85 beans, snap and dry (optimum 80)
    70�85 beans, lima (optimum 85)
    40�75 peas (optimum 75)
    60�95 corn (optimum 95)
    65�82 tomatoes (optimum 80)
    60�95 peppers (optimum 85)
    65�100 cucumbers, melons, squash (optimum 80�95)
    From: Market News, March 1995.

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