It seems you want to go the organic route for controlling blight. I did alot of research on organic fungicides and I settled on a product called Actinovate. I used it last year with excellent results. My plants were virtually disease free compared to the pounding I took the year before not using any controls. You sprinkle it in the hole during plant out and spray your plants with it during the growing season. A little bit goes along way.

Here is a link that might be useful: Actinovate

Many previous discussions on it (see link below) and even more on the use of sodium bicarb. As you say, it is especially popular with rose growers and I have used it on the roses with some good, not great, results. Much of the research I have read about it seems to focus on the effects it has on leaf surface pH and thus the ability of the fungi to grow in that pH range.

It seems to require more frequent application than say Daconil and is easily washed off with rain. Improving sun exposure and increasing air circulation around the plants appears to help me more than anything. That and no overhead watering (rain is a minimal concern here in the summer). JMO.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Bicarb Discussions

Greetings Her Miesenbacher,

I am a retired Bayer type. Heavens no, I have no difficulty
using effective and delicious chemicals in my garden! I just don't like to use them very often or if I don't have to.

I looked at your Actinovate site and found it very interesting. There are a number of products they offer, which did you use?

I used a similar biological control product called Seranade
two years ago. I really could not see equivalent Early Blight control compared to my prior practice of alternating Daconil with Mancozeb.

I like to back off use of chemical pesticides when my tomatoes are perhaps 25 to 35mm in diameter. However, I've taken more loss in the last few years than I want and was in hopes I might begin with the bicarb with some good effect
at the point the fruit size gets somewhere near to ripening.

I plan on using a spreader sticker to help hold it on the plants through at least one rain, so we will see how it goes. August and September are usually hot and fairly dry here so it might work; shouldn't work me to death spraying.

Larry

Larry, I went the organic route last year in growing my tomatoes, both in containers and in the ground. I used Actinovate SP. At plantout I put Actinovate and Mycorrhiza in the hole around the roots. During the season I sprayed the plant weekly with soil life tea and Actinovate which was brewed with the tea for 12 hours and then mixed with Yucca Extract prior to spraying the plants and soil. Later on I substituted molasses for the yucca extract as the spreader sticker plus a carbo/calcium feed as well and cheaper to boot. We had a wet July/August here in Germany last year and my plants came through with flying colors.
Another product I came across here in Germany is Called Pilz-Frei and it is made with (Azoxystrobin) which is an extract from mushrooms and it is supposed to be very good as well but is used as a foliar only. The nice thing about Actinovate is it protects the plant at the root zone as well as from the leaves when us as a foliar and a little bit does go along way.

I like Hydrogen Dioxide.

ok, Timmy. Tell us how you are using and at what concentration. Do you see any vegetation damage? Any affect on fruit set?

1:100 no burning

Here is a link that might be useful: hydrogen dioxide

As with ALL chemicals, one must follow label directions explicitly in order to be safe and LEGAL. Giving advice contrary to label directions violates the law.

After reading the label directions for hydrogen dioxide at the link provided by Timmy, one can see that 1:100 is in EXCESS of the label directions for foliar application on tomatoes in the seedling stage. The label instructs less than half that concentration up to the 4th true leaf stage.

Quoting from the label directions:

"Seedling Production Treatment: For control of Bacterial Speck, Bacterial Spot, Damping-Off Pythium, Early Blight, Late Blight and Phytophthora: 1/2 fl. oz. of OxiDate per gallon of water. Apply OxiDate at the 2 to 4 true leaf stage as a foliar spray with sufficient water to achieve
complete coverage. Repeat at seven-day intervals."

The label directions go on to explain other recommended concentrations for treating plug trays, soil, new transplants, and maturing plants. It appears the 1:100 concentration is at the high end of most of the applications and that satisfactory results might be obtained with lower concentrations.

Hoosier,

How many tomato plants have you seen with a fruit set at the fourth true leaf stage?

Read the question before posting an answer.

The reason I attached the label is so smart people can READ it and follow the directions for themselves depending on what they are using the product for. 1:100 is actually the recomended rate for foliar applications. More importantly it's the size area you treat with the mixture. It's not a high rate if your 100 gallons (1gal oxidate and 99gal water) is spread on 2 or 3 acres is it?

You're guilty of giving false info buy generalizing a rate and not taking into account specific crop stage etc. Again this is why I attached the label that YOU then read!

It seems as if this site is more for people who want to be critical and pick an argument rather than helping each other out so we can all pick nice tomatoes.

>"Read the question before posting an answer."The "question" was >"Timmy. Tell us how you are using and at what concentration. Do you see any vegetation damage? Any affect on fruit set?"

So, besides "what is the effect on fruit set," the question also was "how you are using (it)", and "do you see any vegetation damage?" Did I miss something?

And it's clear from the label directions that foliar applications early on should be made with concentrations less than half of what you suggested as "1:100 no burning."

Simple as that. No wanting "to be critical and pick an argument," just wanting folks to use the minimum necessary, the actual recommended rate, and avoid unnecessary hazards ... that's all really.

Bill

Definately read the label on QxiDate before using. Toxic to birds and fish and highly toxic to bees and other beneficial insects. It is also a strong oxidizer so wear rubber gloves when making your diluted solution. Don't apply in windy conditions as suggested by the label or you may end up with some angry neighbors.

I guess everyone is a professional.

People ask for help and suggestions which I try to provide.

I suggest a natural, organic product with the label attached and it turns into a pesticide education class.

Where do you get potassium bicarbonate? I've tried to find it without any luck.

joeray, check out this product.

Here is a link that might be useful: GreenCure

The GreenCure sounds like an interesting product, I may just have to check it out.

FYI, hydrogen dioxide is another name for hydrogen peroxide. The OxyDate link is for a product in a concentrated form, which does present hazards (it is a strong oxidant). However, since it is diluted to a low concentration, it would be a very, very safe product to use and breaks down quickly. Here's a link from the EPA, which has a very understandable writeup:
http://epa.gov/pesticides/biopesticides/ingredients/factsheets/factsheet_000595.htm

The EPA page says that peroxide is usually diluted to 1% or less for agricultural use. Since the pharmacy stuff is 3%, you could dilute it by mixing 1 bottle with 2 bottle volumes of water. I will most likely try it, as it would be cheap and very easy to obtain!

My concern for the dilution rate of hydrogen dioxide ... whether it's hydrogen peroxide, natural, organic, chemical, whatever ... was mainly for burning foliage or causing environmental side effects. By using the minimum recommended rate rather than the maximum, I assumed a lesser side effect. And I think that was the intent of the label directions anyway.

Timmy,

Just appreciative of your info here in Beaver Falls! Walmart
peddles peroxide at 3% and in 1 quart bottles for 76 cents on sale. 2 more quarts of dillution water won't set me back enough to pizzle with! I believe I can do my whole 24x22 patch thoroughly with 1.5 gallons of mix.

I would not think spreader sticker would be indicated--maybe a teaspoon of dish soap to act as a wetting agent/surfactant
to spread the dilute spray thoroughly. Must be very fast acting as peroxide is very unstable, particularly when exposed to sunlight and fresh air. Decomposes to water and oxygen, don't you know. At 1 to 100 (1%) it wouldn't even make a very effective gargle juice.

I plan to alternate this with potassium bicarbonate sprays,
this is also an EPA/FDA/whatsienutsie approved material.

However, I do not suggest that anyone else do such a dangerous and possibly illegal thing as I am prone to terrible errors in judgement, act without due caution and perception, and you, your neighbor, or entire subdivision might well fall ill to death! Or it might get into your eyes or someone else's eyes and make you blind or worse! And
do not be tempted to gargle with it, mix it with booze of any kind, or ingest it accidently or on purpose in any way
possible or otherwise!

Yeah, diluting 3% HP 1-2 is pretty much a no-brainer. I use 35% food grade HP but not for plants. OxiDate I believe is 27% HP. I do know that over the counter 3% is not food grade and does have additives but havn't researched it. Had a neighbor that decided to spray his weeds with Roundup. Took out half of my tomato plants and he thought he knew it all.

Well, Roundup is one h--- of a lot more of an active anti- vegetation material than any of us would ever want on our tomato plants! I'll bet it did mess up your garden!

The peroxide that Walmart sells (at least the stuff I bought)
came from their pharmacy department. It is labeled for topical application and gargling without dillution. It is noted on the container that it is stabilized--I expect that is a matter of ph control.

Here in the US it is nearly impossible for the average citizen to buy concentrated solutions of peroxide. I know, because years ago I tried to do so. That is because concentrated solutions can be effectively used in creating explosives, as you surely know. We have a government agency
called BATF that gets all worried, itchy, and nasty about such matters.

Larry, I'm with you. Hey we even put it in our cuts as kids. Heaven forbid we put it in a sprayer.

The potassium bicarbonate I use is called "Milstop".

Well Larry, while you and Timmy are yuckin' it up, please remember the question was whether it would burn your tomato leaves ... not whether it was safe and labelled for use as a topical antiseptic or gargle for humans.

Others who are planning to use the product please note the label directions for the agricultural application to tomato foliage advised the 1:100 solution for wetter weather conditions where high relative humidity or precipitation on the foliage might necessitate the higher ratio solution. Otherwise, the recommendation was 1:200.

Here is a little info on the different grades of HP.
Grades of Hydrogen Peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide is available in various strengths and grades.

A) 3.5% Pharmaceutical Grade: This is the grade sold at your local drugstore or supermarket. This product is not recommended for internal use. It contains an assortment of stabilizers which shouldn't be ingested. Various stabilizers include: acetanilide, phenol, sodium stanate and tertrasodium phosphate.

B) 6% Beautician Grade: This is used in beauty shops to color hair and is not recommended for internal use.

C) 30% Reagent Grade: This is used for various scientific experimentation and also contains stabilizers. It is also not for internal use.

D) 30% to 32% Electronic Grade: This is used to clean electronic parts and not for internal use.

E) 35% Technical Grade: This is a more concentrated product than the Reagent Grade and differs slightly in that phosphorus is added to help neutralize any chlorine from the water used to dilute it.

F) 35% Food Grade: This is used in the production of foods like cheese, eggs, and whey-containing products. It is also sprayed on the foil lining of aseptic packages containing fruit juices and milk products. THIS IS THE ONLY GRADE RECOMMENDED FOR INTERNAL USE. It is available in pints, quarts, gallons or even drums. Various suppliers are mentioned later in this article.

G) 90%: This is used as an oxygen source for rocket fuel.

Here is a source for 19% food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. Read the label and it says, once diluted to 3% add 1 ounce to 1 quart of water for foliar applications which is 1/32 ratio. It is sold for hydroponic/horticultural use.

Here is a link that might be useful: Food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide

I bag up about 5-10 lbs of finished compost fromthe pile in cheesecloth and brew 32 gallons of aearated compost tea with a ounce of molasses in a large plastic trash can using an aquariaum pump for oxygenation, then add 1/4 box of baking soda to the mix and drench. Redneck organic science works.

However, the single most important element in my organic success in reducing disease and insect damage has been to drastically improve the soil over the years through applying one ton of finished comopiost each year and bringing back the good bugs, birds, toads, and earthworms. Good soil grows strong plants. Predator/prey balance (not found in chemically treated gardens)uses nature to take care of the problem itself and provide beautiful diversity in the garden ecosystem.

Just wish I could find something in the animal kingdom to eat a few more flea beetles--they make growing eggplant quite the challenge.

maupin, I wonder if silver mulch which reflects light would help with your flea beetles. I read where someone uses aluminium pie tins under their plants to deter pests.
Concerning your redneck drench it don't get much better than that.

Hey Mr. (or Mrs.) Maupin, down there in God's Country where I was hatched,

Here's another redneck trick regarding those flea beatles:

Plant a cluster of about 3 black beauty eggplants somewhere around the center of the garden, and allow some room around these babies to avoid overspray contact to valuable nearby veggies. Give these dudes all the nasty chemical fertilizer they want, stake them as they will surely prosper with such neglect and abuse, then lurk with great expectations of what is to come. While you are waiting make a trip to the local discount store, there to purchase a spray can of the most
powerful nasty horrible bug killer spray offered by Raid.

Suddenly, with daily observation, you will notice your 3 sacrificial eggplants have attracted a bezillion flea beatles. Nail those little boogers with your hexachlorobugbegetter, being careful not to overspray to your good veggies. I have found that the beetles so treated never seem to wise up, and a few years of this will really
reduce their presence in your garden. Any fruit that may develope should be properly disposed of, which to my opinion
would involve most all eggplant fruits, but then everybody to their own passions! At any rate, pitch these eggplants
and their fruits, which will have done their duty!