Not a kit - a real soil test. Available locally through the county extension office for only a few dollars more than the cost of the kits. The DIY kits are a waste of time and money and well known for false and mis-leading results.

Failure to thrive is most often associated with nutrient issues and/or pH problems.

Dave

I hope you don't have a walnut trees growing in the vicinity!

Linda

Have you been fertilizing ?

Your profile indicates you are in zone 9b. Where is that ? South, southeast or southwest ? What is your HEAT zone ?

Anyway, as Dave said, you should get a soil test done by a lab.

Thanks for your responses!
- I will do a soil test
- no walnut trees!
- we fertilized twice during the season
- we are heat zone 1, santa cruz, CA

Do you think it's a problem that we don't grow anything else in different years? Can we replenish the soil well enough from the results of the soil test, assuming that's what it is?

Do you think it's a problem that we don't grow anything else in different years?

Many have that same limitation yet grow with no problems.

Can we replenish the soil well enough from the results of the soil test

Probably, depending what the soil test shows. pH modification takes some time and results wouldn't be immediate. If the pH is skewed then you can add all the nutrients you want and the plants can't use them.

If simply a nutrient or micro-nutrient issue then there are both synthetic quick-fixes and organic not-so-quick fixes.

Dave

The University of CA doesn't do soil tests for home gardeners, nor do a number of other state universities including OSU in Oregon.

Contact your county's Extension Service office to ask where they suggest gardeners have soil tested. It's likely a local professional lab.

See this interactive map to locate the nearest office:
http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/

Edit:
Forgot to mention: Ask the folks at the Extension Service for suggestions about growing tomatoes successfully in your area. Likely they'll tell you the preferred varieties, even the time of year to grow them.

Here is a link that might be useful: locate your county's Extension Service office

This post was edited by jean001a on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 23:59

Although some years we have had a lack of sun

For tomato-growing, fog and cool -- if not downright cold -- summer weather can be make-it-or-break-it issues in some parts of the coast. There are a few varieties which are "supposed to" do a bit better in climates like San Francisco's. However, in parts of the Bay Area (yes, I know Santa Cruz isn't in the Bay Area, but the Bay Area is what I remember reading about) some years people get barely any -- or no -- ripe tomatoes.

Unfortunately, that's about all I know, and my experience with your weather was many decades ago ... and for some reason the Sun always smiled on my mother when we went to Monterey or Carmel.

I'm not saying it's only the weather to blame, but that could well be a major factor.

When the Sun does shine, how many hours of direct sunlight does your tomato garden receive, and for what part of the day?

Which varieties did you grow? Early varieties might have a better chance of producing more.

OK. As I have been trying to advocates the use of HEAT zone in user profile , we have an interesting case here that having that piece of information can be very helpful. A USDA zone 9b, in western Texas, eg, is a world apart from that in Santa Cruz , CA.

Now, knowing that, we are sure the HEAT is not your problem. You have a COOL climate (similar to mine, here in Seattle, WA)

Too much shade, combined with cool temperatures can hinder growth and fruit production of tomatoes. I am in similar situation. I DO NOT get bumper crops and by mid September things cool off quite a bit. The soil hardly ever really warms up, that is what tomato plants would appreciate. ALSO, cool soil can hinder uptake of nutrients. I wonder how your cool crops are doing ; Things like cabbage family, onions family, chards, beets , potatoes ..?

But, first thing first. Anything to suggest, in the absence of a soil test would be just a guessing game and shooting in the dark.

soil test it is!

I looked at several soil testing sites and they seem to have quite a selection of tests to choose from. If anyone can offer any guidance regarding which test to choose, that would be great!

thx,
rob

Would have to know which sites you are looking at. Please post a link to them.

As jean said above your local county ag extension office is the best place to get them done.

Dave

gwald, ... Since your county ag. ext. does not provide soil test:

All you need a basic analysis to include:

--- pH
-- N,P, K, Mg, Ca level.

Chances are they will give you also the normal recommended amounts for those elements. But even if they didn't, that is no problem. You can always figure it out via internet search. THE IMPORTAN THING IS TO KNOW THE CHEMISTRY OF YOUR SOIL..

I suspect the pH is the problem. Find out what is the pH of your tap water .

As jean said the county is no longer doing the tests themselves but they have outside labs they are sending you to contact instead. So why not use the local soil testing lab recommended by your county extension office?

As for tested components, pH is the most important followed by P and K, %of organic matter, and Mg and Ca levels. If they offer more micro nutrient testing for a reasonable price, go for it.

Dave

Request a "basic soil test with recommendations for growing vegetables in a home garden."

Around here, the approx cost is $30 to $35.

It's a good investment to have that baseline otherwise you're guessing what you need and how much. thus will likely waste time and money .

so I finally got the analysis, but I can't find the 6-24-24. The analysis is below. I appreciate any comments. thx

The pH value of this soil is slightly acid in reaction and is satisfactory at this time. The levels of soluble salt are safely low in this soil.

The fertility analyses show low nitrogen, potassium, sulfate and boron in this soil at this time.

Preplanting should include the following materials per 1000 square feet of bed area:
Gypsum 50 lbs
Ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) 10 lbs
6-24-24 mixed fertilizer 25 lbs

The above amendments should be thoroughly incorporated into the upper 6-8" of the soil profile.
When the plants begin to produce fruit, it is recommended that higher rates of potassium and nitrogen be used by applying the following fertilizer materials per 1000 square feet:
Ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) 5.0 lbs
Potassium sulfate (0-0-50) 10.0 lbs

The above fertilizer materials should be watered in thoroughly.