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| Our Super Marzano paste tomato plants were off to a good start - then BER changed all of that in just days - The first cluster already wiped out - any suggestions? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| I don't know about San Marzano tomatoes. All of my seedlings are doing great except for these, they are really puny looking. I usually supplement with dolomite when this happens but some say doesn't do any good. The DOP canned variety from Italy makes the best marinaro on the planet. |
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| Basically all the paste types are prone to BER early in the season simply because of their shape. IME San Marzano is no more prone to it than any of the other paste types. Once the plants/weather stabilizes it goes away. However given your zone and time of year I have to assume these are being frown in a GH, correct? If so then the artificial growing conditions could be contributing to the problems and you may have to intervene somehow. Stabilizing the soil moisture levels more helps a great deal but you'll have to figure out how to do that based on your set up. Increasing the soil and air temps in the GH helps too. Dave |
This post was edited by digdirt on Mon, Apr 29, 13 at 17:58
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- Posted by Hudson...WY Z3 (My Page) on Mon, Apr 29, 13 at 17:27
| Yes - they are growing in the GH with non-regulated soil and air temps. We protect them from air temps below 40 degrees and higher than 85 degrees - no soil temp protection (except air temps in the GH) in 30" raised beds - with OS temps as low as minus 4 degrees since they were transplanted to the GH on March 10th. Thank you both for the information - it appears stabilizing is the problem with these paste tomato plants as our other non-paste varieties planted at the same time are doing fine - so far. The Marzano also set fruit a week or two earlier than the other varieties which may have contributed to the problem. |
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| Here's an excellent thread with an explaination of why BER occurs. Just scroll down a little ways and you will see it. This year I'm going to try a little gypsum and calcium nitrate to supply available calcium when the plant needs it when forming fruit. |
Here is a link that might be useful: BER thread
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Our favorite tomato expert Carolyn137 wrote an excellent response to a question about Blossom End Rot (BER) and I am quoting it here:
I know some of you have seen this before, but with the number of questions posted about BER (Blossom End Rot), I think Carolyn's incomparable explanation bears repeating. Why try to reinvent the wheel when she explains it so well? Betsy |
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| Here's another explanation I like from a very well known poster on the Containers forum: "you add gypsum, the Ca will be immediately available if you water from the top so it can disperse through the soil a little. Be careful because gypsum does contribute to the level of EC/TDS and you don't want that getting so high you burn your plants. |
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- Posted by carolyn137 z4/5 NY (My Page) on Tue, Apr 30, 13 at 21:58
| Thanks Betsy. First, I've been having major DSL problems and it's still not solved, heaven help Verizon, so I don't know how long I'll be on here or elsewhere and have been offline since last Friday. Just a couple of other points. Growing in containers is not the same as growing inground whenit comes to BER.. Second, BER iS primarily found with paste type tomatoes, but can affect other varieties as well, so shape is not the determining factor. THirdly, different varieteis can have different physiologies, which also plays into BER,. When I used to have my tomato field there were some low spots and after torrential rains some ares would find the plants under water. The normal progression to death of the plant is yellowing leaves, can 't get oxygen and nutriens via the roots b/c the soil is waterlogged, then the leaves turn brown and then RIP. Some vaiteites would go the death route and others wouldn't go beyind the yellowing leaves and would recover, So with different physiologies plants handle Ca++ differently as well. All for now, Carolyn |
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