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| I got hit with early blight something awful last year. I was already using a soaker hose and mulched pretty heavily, but it was so wet in July it killed all of my tomatoes. Can I re-use the soaker hose from last season? I figure the spores are in the hose and I should at the very least clean it somehow. I'd hate to have to buy more of them as they aren't the cheapest things in the world. Would a diluted solution of bleach/water rid them of their spores? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| The spores only survive winter on living tissue. Dave |
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| I don't know if its a fact but several posters say it is air borne as well as in the soil. I figure it is a bigger problem where I live than lots of others. With all the rain last spring we had it bad here before July arrived. We battle it every summer. Ohio River lowlands are foggy and damp and my particular part is quasi swampy. With 70-80 tomato plants I just don't want to spray that much Daconil so I get what I can early and have had some luck starting suckers in large containers on my driveway first of July. |
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| Yes it is a fact. if one looks up Early Blight you find it is caused by the fungus Alternaria solani, the spores of which are airborne, carried by splashing water or insects, human contact, on surrounding weeds, etc. One of the many sites about it is linked below. Dave |
Here is a link that might be useful: CO State Univ. Ext - Early Blight
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- Posted by sandy0225 z5 Indiana (northerntropics@sbcglobal.net) on Tue, Apr 15, 14 at 17:14
| I wouldn't worry about the soaker hose, but if you're really worried, you could sterilize it in a 1 part bleach to 10 parts water solution with a 10 minute contact time. coil it up and put it in a big Rubbermaid tub with the bleach for 10 minutes, then take it out and dry it. I really wouldn't bother myself though. |
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| You could try soaking the soaker hoses in a tub with added bleach (couldn't hurt). But if you are using regular tap water for your garden (and I don't know that you are), shouldn't that kill the general viruses? It's supposed to be safe enough for US. |
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| JUST IF the sucker is infected, then the soil must be infected too !!! ??? Think about it . |
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| Ok awesome - I'll sterilize it just to be 100% sure and sleep better. Should I sterilize the cages I used last year in the same manner? Or since it's steel will they not carry the virus/bacteria/etc? |
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| If you still think you need to sterilize the hose then clearly you will need to sterilize the cages for your peace of mind too. Never heard of anyone doing either but it's your choice of course. But do not assume that doing either will somehow prevent the disease from developing and so neglect the proven effective methods of control. I would also suggest you do some research into the various tomato diseases, how they work, how they are transmitted, and how they do and don't survive for your future peace of mind. Dave |
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| I'll just say the soaker hose is not likely to be the main source of problems... |
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| I feel as though I've done a decent amount of reading about it and am trying to follow all practices to prevent/discourage its growth and transmission. I mulch heavily, am using actinoiron and actinovate (and specifically following the blight prevention PDF on their website from seedling through bed prep to foliar spray), never water the leaves, I can't really rotate as I'm in a 12' x 12' bed. I'm not sure what else I should do to prevent it. |
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| I'm not sure what else I should do to prevent it.. I suspect you have been going by some manufacturer's marketing info rather than any of the scientific research infosites. Early Blight is an airborne fungus spore. It is cause by the fungus Alternaria solani. The Actino-iron label published on the manufacturers website does not even list a. solani as a controlled fungus for their product unless it is one of "the others". Actino-Iron is a biological fungicide that contains iron and humic acid. This unique product is intended for use as a soil additive for preventative suppression/control of root rot and dampening off fungi such as Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Pythophthora, Fusarium and many others. The active ingredient in Actino-Iron is Streptomyces lydicus strain WYEC 108, a naturally occurring beneficial soil bacterium. It may be a "biological fungicide" as they claim (although it is mostly a fertilizer with iron and humic acid) but it is the same "biological fungicide" found in most compost which is much cheaper and which also provides humic acid. Such natural "fungicides" can be beneficial to the soil for many reasons. The same is true for Actinovate. So while both products may have a beneficial role in soil and seed borne diseases (just like compost does) preventing Early Blight, which again is airborne, is not one of them. Early Blight, along with Septoria Leaf Spot (Septoria lycopersici), is the most common tomato disease worldwide and suffered to some degree by most all gardeners simply because it is so common and because the spores can drift so far on the wind. If you browse through the 100's of discussions here about it you'll discover that the only proven way of actually preventing it is an active spraying program from first day of plant out and weekly thereafter with Chlorothalonil (Daconil) and even that is not 100% effective. Otherwise the best we can hope for is to slow it's development. Dave |
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| I saw the omission of early blight on the label as well, but I have been following this: http://www.naturalindustries.com/retail/Documents/earlylateblighttipsheet.pdf That document at least implies their products are somewhat effective for early blight. I have read forum posts where users have had a moderate to a high degree of success with actinovate. I am a beginner in all of this and I came here for help. So while there are other fungicides on the market, would you say daconil is the only one useful in preventing/slowing early blight? |
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| As I said above Actinovate can be effective at controlling many of the soil borne diseases such as Late Blight and F. Wilt. That is where the success with it has been reported. But it is a control, not a preventative. Pathogens exist in soil. There's no getting rid of them. But you can keep the harmful microbes that cause soil borne diseases from multiplying and causing severe damage with things like it. Similar levels of control are achieved with regular additions of fresh quality compost which contains the same ingredients. But you specified Early Blight so this discussion is based on that info. EB is air borne. The only way to prevent it is by applying a coating to the leaf surfaces so the fungus can't take hold. That is how Daconil works and it is widely recognized as the only effective preventative and even then only if it is applied from the first day of exposure outside. If the spores contact the leaf surfaces before it is applied then even Daconil becomes nothing more than a control. Bottom line - Early Blight is a fact of life in outdoor tomato growing worldwide. Commercial growers and home gardeners have been trying to prevent it for many decades without success so control is the realistic goal. But the answer to your original question, since it requires living tissue to survive, is no. If it makes you feel better to disinfect your hose and cages, great. But it won't prevent Early Blight in your garden. Dave |
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| Thanks for all your help. I'll get some daconil and start the regimen. :) |
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- Posted by johns.coastal.patio 9b (My Page) on Tue, Apr 22, 14 at 11:07
| I really thought I was going to have an easy year. I haven't gardened in maybe 5 years. I set up containers using compost that had aged that long. And yet my SuperSweet 100 looked like it had some early blight starting (clipped leaves, hoping for the best). I can only think that the fungus came in with my plant (from a famous west coast traveling tomato road show, which I would have thought unlikely) or from my borrowed cages. Of course, if these fungi exist in California coastal wetlands, I'm surrounded ... |
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