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| Hey everyone, I grow lots of tomatoes, and every year few plants will tip over and I have to restake them. The problem is that I am too cheap :) I have at least 16 plants, so I need lots of tomato cages or stakes (at least 6' is needed) I tried bamboo poles but I need thick ones. Does anyone know where to buy good cages for under $3 a piece including shipping? I dont want the smaller cages because they will tip over. I like cages because I don't have to worry about adding more ties to the plant. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Cages for that price? No, sorry but even the cheap wire 3 ring things that are a total waste of money cost more than that. The cheapest plastic type supports are 3x that price. And anything really worthwhile is going to be much more expensive. Got trees? Cut young saplings 6' tall and use them to make stakes or tripods. Or why not just lay down a thick layer of mulch and let them sprawl. Many do that. Then there is the Florida weave method that just requires some posts and lots of string. Use the search to pull up all the many discussions here on 'stakes or cages' for lots more ideas on supports. Dave |
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| If you look through the posts on cages there are some good ideas on how to build good sturdy cages that will last for years. The materials might be more than $3/cage but they will last and be sturdy. |
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| I have seen posts on Vegetable Gardening about growing cucumbers up through "tables" made of lattice or wire mesh (CRW) raised a couple feet off the ground. I was talking to a Colonial Williamsburg gardener last week on vacation, he said he grows tomatoes the same way (though with saplings or vines as the mesh). I don't know how that would be with some of the thinner-skinned fruit resting on the mesh but I thought it might be worth a try. Sounds like it takes more ground, but less material? |
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- Posted by Donna.in.Sask 2b (My Page) on Sun, Apr 21, 13 at 13:23
| Florida Weave would be a good option. You can't get decent cages for cheap. In your case, it's not good to be penny-wise and pound-foolish. Spending more at the beginning means you will use the system for longer, rather than having to replace every year. |
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| Cheap Cages forget it. Like some have said if you want to build long lasting cages do it with concrete reinforcing wire or panels. If you want stakes...the wooden ones are only good for a year and usualy break under the weight of tomatoes. I've never tried it but some have said to use electrical conduit as stakes, they are cheaper,sturdy and long lasting. Get it at the Big Box stores. |
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| Go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a 50' roll of 6" sidewalk reforcing mesh. It will make about 10 cages 2' in dia. give or take. They are sturdy, cheap, and last almost forever. I forgot how much a roll costs, but it's not much and you'll have awesome reusable cages and never have to worry about it again. I'm tired of seeing people struggle with cages. this is a 'one and done' operation. |
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| Home Depot sells a 'remesh' sheet I'm fixing to check out. It might take 2 as 4 feet is not really tall enough, but the 84 inch length translates into a 26.7 diameter if just bent to form a circle. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Home Depot remesh
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| I was checking the HD and Lowes websites, and they have 150' rolls of the remesh for $107. Assuming that 3 times the diameter of the cage would be the length of remesh required to make a cage, one could make about 20 or so awesome cages for about 5 bucks each. I made mine slightly different sizes so that I can slip 2 or 3 inside each other during the off season storage. |
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| I bought 3 rolls of the CRW last year and used half of it to fence a 3000sf area. Planted 1 row of indeterminates along one side, used T posts and baling twine to FL weave another half row of determinates but they got away from me. Weaving the indeterminates against the fence worked better, but the twine sagged and I didn't keep up with pruning those as much as I should have either. I think since with a cage you're reaching through (4x4) opening anyway, the better (less work, less CRW, probably fewer stakes required) option is to "fence" both sides of the 2-ft or so wide row(s) with the CRW, to make one long "cage" for the plants rather than individual 2.5-3ft diameter cages. Has anybody tried this? |
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- Posted by missingtheobvious Blue Ridge 7a (My Page) on Tue, Apr 23, 13 at 12:31
| ajsmama, I grow some/most of my tomatoes on a long trellis made of stock panels perched about 14" off the ground on T-posts. I weave the vines in and out of the holes. I also use the round plastic vine clips to start training them and to hold the stems that get away from me. I've read about people who grow tomatoes against a cyclone fence (access to the other side might not be easy). http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-6245-tomato-trellis-clips-100-count.aspx [I've purchased these from various catalogs over the years; someone has them in bulk; the hydroponics people sell them too. So far, they last forever. I prefer the red clips; the white ones are okay; I tried Gardeners' Supply Company's green clips a couple of years ago, but they often pop open, so I don't recommend them. These clips are also good for training cucumbers and gourds.] |
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| ajsmama, It's kind of a 'to each his/her own' thing. I like the individual cage idea because of the portability/flexibility. Once the cages are made they're easy to work with from year to year. I can also walk and work between the plants much easier if needed. Years ago I saw these cages in a guy's backyard, and immediately knew they were for me. |
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| MTO - Sounds like what the guy at CW was telling me he did - I'd like to see pix if you have them (14" sounds low though - 3ft might be nice height for picking). Ed - yeah, I was thinking I'd make those cages too, but that's a lot of cutting and bending and still think it takes up more storage space than just rolling 1 length (or 2) back up. Agree access is better with cages (if you leave room to walk between), but if you've got a 2.5-3ft dia cage and leave 1ft between so plants are on 4ft center, that's 1-1.5ft closer than I'd plant in row (fenced or woven) so not only takes more material but more real estate. Depends on how much land and how many plants you have, like you said to each his own. Actually, I really liked the SFG idea of having a trellis (like a headboard LOL) at the north end of a bed or along a "trench" (I tried a 100 ft long raised bed) but the indeterminates are just too big (or I'm too lazy pruning!) for that to work. |
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- Posted by missingtheobvious Blue Ridge 7a (My Page) on Tue, Apr 23, 13 at 18:49
| ajsmama, Sorry for the confusion. This is a vertical trellis. When I said 14", I mean that the bottom edge of the stock panel (they're 16' x 4 1/2') is about 14-16" off the ground; that means that the top of the panel is nearly 6' off the ground (quite a bit taller than I am). So I am picking from wherever the lowest fruit are up to as high as I can reach. I do spend quite a bit of time weaving and managing the stems, but that time is useful for noticing hornworms and other problems. The panels are supported by 6' T-posts (it's not a problem that they don't reach the tops of the panels), and are wired to the T-posts (near top and near bottom). Two panels overlap a few inches at a T-post, and there's also a T-post in the middle of each panel. I don't know if that's overkill, but that's how the neighbor's son who built it wanted to do it, and it's still standing after four years. The holes are 6 x 7" -- IIRC -- except at the top edge of the panel, where they are closer together, presumably for stability. I've planted indets 4' apart along the trellis, with essentially no pruning. I do have access to the plants from the other side of the trellis (this is a 4' raised bed, with the trellis in the middle; I tend to put herbs and smaller veggies on the other side, 12-18" from the trellis). You could do the same thing with CRW, and it would probably be cheaper. I like stock panels because they don't rust. I suspect they're stiffer than CRW but have no frame of reference. This article has a CRW trellis, held up by a conduit frame; there are a couple of photos. It's the second example: "Cement Reinforcing Mesh Trellis with EMT Electrical Conduit." I've also read (probably here?) of someone who made a double trellis of 2 rows of CRW/panels/whatever, with the tomatoes planted in-between. I don't remember how close the two rows were (probably a foot or so?). |
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| You're right, it is alot of cutting, and bending and fastening. But it's only once. I've used my cages for about 5 years and they still look like the day I made them. |
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| Since you still have to reach through the mesh to harvest, prune, pick off hornworms, etc. what is the benefit of individual cages over a double fenced row? I actually found it in SFG - Mel calls it a hedgerow. He also does the "table" or what he calls "horizontal fence" but limits it to a 4x4 bed so you can reach the middle, and of course it also can't be too high so says that's best for "bush" tomatoes etc. T posts are on sale at TSC so I may go pick some up, just have to decide what I'm going to do with the CRW (actually, I need DH to help put up fence, takes 2 people and he's the only one who can cut it). Have some time to think - way too early here to think about planting tomatoes, though I may start hardening off in a week or 2. I really want to try some more trellis growing this year, esp. for my dad. I haven't got time to build raised bed "tables" for him (well, maybe a couple for non-vining squash) so something we can put up pretty quickly with CRW and T posts or 3-4ft lengths of logs with a horizontal mesh would be good for his tomatoes (which he usually lets sprawl) cukes and beans, etc. would be good since he has a really hard time bending over. |
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- Posted by missingtheobvious Blue Ridge 7a (My Page) on Wed, Apr 24, 13 at 12:37
| A few years ago I saw photos here at GW of stock panels used in two other ways for vining plants like cucumbers, beans, probably tomatoes, other things I don't remember. In one arrangement, a 16' stock panel is bent into an arch. [Stakes -- probably rebar or metal pipe -- keep the arch in place, though I also remember one which was wedged between wooden raised beds. Some people use this for an entry arch between fence sections, with clematis or roses or whatever covering the panel.] The second way uses half a stock panel. One end is at ground level, and the other end is propped up to about 6'. If you're lucky, the cukes or beans hang down on the underside of the panel for easy picking. |
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| I buy 3/4 inch PVC pipe and it makes nice tall stakes that last forever. |
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| I buy 3/4 inch PVC pipe and it gives me tall tomato stakes that last forever. And at a very reasonable price to boot. |
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- Posted by sleevendog none (My Page) on Wed, May 22, 13 at 7:07
| I've been using the bamboo double trellis method for years. Though different climates and weather conditions require finding the best solution. Try freecycle or CraigsList in your area for cheap materials. A woman in NJ right now is in need of help with her bamboo that has taken over...just mentions to bring a shovel and please take what you want. I have ordered my bamboo only twice in 15yrs. I trellis just like the picture linked, but in two long rows, one for toms and one for beans. I need 50. You would only need 25 for 16 plants. My garden gets high winds in an open field so i need the support. I use velcro ties. Mulched with straw it is attractive and low maintenance. I grow a thick patch of carrots down the middle for a nice late fall treat. Lots of ideas on this site for free trellis plans... |
Here is a link that might be useful: bamboo
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| CHEAP cages are just that ;CHEAP and waste of money. After reading about the REWire sheet (40" x84") here, today I went to HD and bought ont , $7.20 +tx. But with this one, you have to be handy and willing to do some fun work. A big bundl of the same material is sold for about $105. and probably you can make more than 20 cages from it. In this case, you cam make them slightly conic (like paper cups) so that they can be inserted into each other for ease of storage . Perhaps the only draw back of this (to some) is that it is about 4 1/2 ft tall. But to me that is ok. After 4.5 ft , I will let my toms to cascade. they will never reach the ground. |
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