This is the first time my 10 minute drip cycle didn't produce any run-off at all. I think that's bad, right? I figure I should have some run-off in the last few minutes at least.

(Doing 10 3x per day now, going to 15 min 3x per day. Two approximately 1-gph emitters per 10 gallon pot.)

I wasn't really sure what I'd do with these and 10 gallon pots, whether I'd build something higher, or just start pinching and controlling like a foot or so above the cage. Input on that? I could build a trellis above out of 2x2 and drop strings.

Trying to adjust the plan as I go ...

btw I'll trade you any day of the week for 88 degrees and grin and bear the wind ;)

This time I've been pinching most on the Early Girl and least on the Super Sweet 100. Strangely the Early Girl seems to be hunkering down right now and building thick branches more than going for height. It has set 5+ fruit. The Super Sweet 100 only about 10+

They only get 5 hours of direct sun, the hot part though, 11am - 4 pm.

I water at 6 am, 2 pm, 8 pm. I'd like to make that 2 in the day and one in the night but that is beyond my simple minded timer (just x times per day)

(It looks like you have a harder set of worries, frank)

Dave

Dave, I think I'd go 1/2" if I went much bigger. My instructions said "to 50 feet or 30 containers." I'm only at about 25 feet and 10 1-gph emitters, all 1/4" line.

I have some of those little red adjustable emitters now. I plan to use those, and probably a 1/2 delivery hose next year.

Granted, you're using containers which will help, but be
prepared to have to add something to keep them things
from folding up like a cheap umbrella. I always say that
the person who designed those cages must have worked
for Slinky at one time in their life.

1. Being only 10 gallons (not tiny, not all that big either especially for bigger plants), means that the soil heats up faster in hot weather and there isn't as much space for roots or for water in the potting mix.

2. They are black plastic, which would tend to heat up faster in the sun.

3. Are they sitting directly on concrete or tile? Seems like it may be a good idea to put at least a little something between the container and a likely hot surface.

Maybe you can figure out something similar. Think Tinkertoys.

And just for fun, a link to my cage plans.

I think I'm staying good now, when I can keep an eye on them and keep watering up. If I had to leave for the weekend and when Santa Anas were expected I'd probably have to crank up the timer ... to uncertain results.

Cool tomorrow though, and I should be able to transplant my habenero.

Small garden: 3 tomatoes, 2 eggplant, 2 peppers. If I do a crossbar trellis 8 feet long I might do more smaller pots beneath it next year, like 8 five gallon buckets in a row along the back.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

In Southern California, you can find these garden stakes cheap from the Daiso Japan stores. They range from $1.50 each for the bigger 6 or 7 foot ones to $1.50 for 2 or 3 packs for smaller 3 or 4 foot ones.

Current plan is to build a trellis 8 ft high, 8 ft wide, and use it for climbing peas this winter. I'll put 5 gallon grow bags under it next year, and grow more varieties, but limited to a main stalk or two.

They run through the cage wires just above the soil surface so they can't really go much of anywhere. And I use a wire garden staple (the things you buy to hold down landscape fabric) near the 2 gph dripper to hold it in place.

Dave

August and September might be in nineties and hundreds, even by the cost.

Between now and then we typically have "June Gloom" with a wall of coastal clouds. Fungal diseases can strike.

Plants are growing gangbusters, and except for the Reisentraube (with one!), setting fruit.

Next year, I am going all adjustable, for sure.)