Return to the Growing Tomatoes Forum
| Post a Follow-Up
Need advice
| | |
Posted by
Harleylove 9 (
My Page) on
Mon, Apr 1, 13 at 21:23
| Hi, This is my first year growing from seed and I have learned a lot, mostly from making so many mistakes. I started Beef and large cherry tomatoes way too early. I had excellent germination but inadequate lighting so I have a lot of tall leggy plants. I'm having such a hard time hardening them off too. It's been close to 2 weeks and I've been doing it gradually but they still look beat up(between the wind, sun and cold) but they are still putting out new growth. My husband says I should just plant them but I'm wondering if I'd be better off either direct sowing new seeds or starting again indoors and moving them outdoors before they get their true leaves so they will be more acclimated to the weather. Advice much much appreciated!
Leah |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Need advice
| | |
| Tomatoes are pretty hardy. Plant the leggy ones you have, but plant them deep. Prune/remove the bottom leaves or branches if there are any. The lower stem part of the tomatoes will grow roots. It'll be better than sowing new seeds. If you have more space, direct sow any seeds you have. |
RE: Need advice
| | |
| I have also planted leggy plants by sort of laying them on their side in an elongated hole and bending the stem up straight. |
RE: Need advice
| | |
- Posted by bets z6A ID (My Page) on
Tue, Apr 2, 13 at 8:07
| Trench planting is a very good way to handle leggy tomato plants. Just be careful not to break the stem when planting, but if you do happen to break it, the plant will probably survive the breakage (especially if the "break" is more of a sharp bend than actually parting the plant from its roots.) Betsy |
Here is a link that might be useful: Trench Planting Tomatoes
RE: Need advice
| | |
| Thank you all. Glad to know I don't need to start over. I've spent so much time taking care of them. Thanks for the link Betsy. I'm going to read up on it. Leah |
RE: Need advice
| | |
| I vote for trenching, too. The benefit is more roots along the buried stem. More roots often equals a heartier plant. |
RE: Need advice
| | |
| Oh, and I do recommend the cut worm collar as noted in Betsy's link. I use to think I didn't need one until one year.... :-( |
RE: Need advice
| | |
| Monet, Do you use the collar with all your plants? I think I read somewhere you can use a plastic cup? Thanks
Leah |
RE: Need advice
| | |
| Re. cutworm collars: if you use a plastic cup, the plastic may disintegrate from the effects of several months of strong light. I use toilet paper rolls, slit up the side, then cut in half. Paper towel and wrapping paper rolls would also work. Over the course of the summer, they disappear. |
RE: Need advice
| | |
| I have used a plastic cup, but have always pulled it off once I was sure the plant was beyond the point of major damage. TP rolls certainly will work. Heck, I've use thick papered (cardboard-ish) "junk mail" rolled up and placed snug around the base of the plant. You only need a couple of inches below ground and several above. Last year was my first experience with a young rabbit. The plastic cup worked the best. I used one on many different seedlings. |
RE: Need advice
| | |
| monet_g, I hadn't thought about rabbits. I grow in raised beds and apparently my rabbits can't jump that high, so I don't need so many inches of collar above ground. |
RE: Need advice
| | |
- Posted by number2 USDA 9b/Sunset 14 (My Page) on
Tue, Apr 2, 13 at 18:27
| I've had cut worm problem for 2-3 years. I've used plastic 'ring' cut out from water bottle or toilet paper roll but somehow the worm still found its way into the ring inside the soil. I think the ring/roll is too wide for the plant. I've also used crashed egg shell which was somewhat hit or missed. The most economical and effective method I found are those thick plastic straws from the asian supermarket - those used at the bubble milk tea store. I think it was like $1.99 a pack. Cut it open to wrap around the base of the stem and nothing can ever get in since it's so tight with the stem. When the plant is as thick as the straw, it should be strong enough and you can just unwrap the straw. |
Post a Follow-Up
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in.
If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Growing Tomatoes Forum
Information about Posting
- You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you
will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your
post, make changes and upload photos.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in
order to see it.
- Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
- We have a strict no-advertising
policy!
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit
our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we
will be happy to help.
Learn more about in-text links on this page here
