|
| My Leaves on my Tomato plant (sweet 100) Started turning slightly yellow on the new leafs close to the stock. I did a search on your site as well as google. I did find some answers but not sure which one is mine. Some back ground on my plants and growing op. I am here in Portland Or. its been mid 50s to mid 60s in the day and i set my tomatoes on my front porch to get the most direct sun light i have and then move the plants back in side during night time to prevent to cold of temps. I trans planted them into 5 Gal. buckets 5 days ago. the soil is damp about an inch down. i believe its because they are dry but im not 100%. Any help with be much appreciated. Thanks mike. |
Follow-Up Postings:
|
| The two most common causes of yellowing of leaves is (1) over-watering and (2) insufficient nutrients available. You don't mention any feeding done so that may be the issue but soil that is damp at the root level does not require additional water either and over-watering is by far the most common cause. A photo of the plant would help determine which is the cause. Dave |
|
- Posted by renzokukin Oregon (My Page) on Sat, Apr 26, 14 at 22:35
| This is the photo i took of the situation and now my other plant is following suit here but her strain is (early girl).. |
|
| From you photos it might not be from too much water. Sometimes new growth is a lighter green, especially if the fertilizer runs out. Those look pretty healthy to me. were you fertilizing heavily and then stopped by any chance? |
|
- Posted by renzokukin Oregon (My Page) on Sun, Apr 27, 14 at 1:00
| That is a relief reading that, and no I haven't fertilized at all. The photo below is all the influence iv had on the plants as far as any fertilizer. Used this soil to transplant them into my buckets. |
|
| I think that too many people restrict the fertilization on seedlings more than they should. Yes, it is good to not over-fertilize seedlings at the start. But it can be underdone too. |
|
- Posted by renzokukin Oregon (My Page) on Sun, Apr 27, 14 at 1:30
| Well i wanted to wait a week or so before adding the fertilizer in the photo below. But yes i am happy to receive any advise, this is my first grow. But what dose everyone think about the leaf color? I just want to make sure to have healthy plants! |
|
| Four issues then. First you used potting soil in containers - never recommended as it compacts which causes poor drainage and it retains too much water. Soil-less potting mixes only in containers.. Second, you haven't fed them - weekly diluted feedings of a liquid fertilizer is standard recommendation once the first true leaves develop. Third you are using a granular fertilizer in small containers. Dry granular ferts are very slow acting. Liquid fertilizers work much better and faster. Container plants require regular supplements of nutrients as the nutrients leach out of the pot every time you water. Fourth, organic granular fertilizers in containers are even slower to benefit the plant since there is no active soil microherd in the mix to act on them and convert them to nutrients the plants can use. Using organics in containers is a whole different ballgame from using organics when gardening in-ground. Dave |
|
- Posted by renzokukin 8 (My Page) on Sun, Apr 27, 14 at 13:17
| Thanks for the info Dave! I was doing a little research last night on the web after I made this post and found some recommendations on the tomato plants I'm growing as well as some of the pepper variate. I don't have the link available now but over all it said to use a method where you dilute a table spoon of Epson salts in 1 gal of water and mist directly onto the plant as well as a regular (Liquid) fert every other week. So week 1 = mist salt week 2 = liquid fert. Has anyone attempted or have and experience with this technique? I was sold after following up with more research so please share ideas as i am going to my local garden store in about an hour to pick up supply's Mike. |
|
| Dave, If I am using a sub-irrigated container, does nutrient still leach out of the soil with every watering like it does with a regular container? |
|
| By sub-irrigated do you mean a SWC (self-watering container)? If so then when it rains or is top watered the nutrients wash into the bottom of the container into the water storage part and are re-absorbed by the soil and plants from there. As long as it doesn't over-flow they aren't lost. renzokukin - misting(aka foliar feeding) can be a bit risky in your zone because of the heat. While more northern gardeners can get away with it easily those of us in the more southern zones have to do it with care or we end up with damage to the leaves and increased possibility of foliar diseases. Epsom salts is a source of magnesium and used by many of us, but as a root drench, when we know for a fact that our soil is low in mag. If it isn't low then it can be a waste of $$ and effort. But either way magnesium supplements aren't required weekly and it is possible to over-dose the plants with it. But all plants need NPK and some micronutrients on a regular basis. Feeding "weakly weekly" is a common recommendation and that means with a balanced fertilizer. Hope this helps. Dave |
|
| With regard to the topic question and based on my observation of your picture I THINK, also as Edwaether said, it is normal for new growth to be of lighter color. That can be partly because of fast grow rate and low level of Nitrogen. THAT IS NOT WHAT i CAN CALL "yellowing". Interstingly, I can see that the tip of those leaves ( older) have darker color than stem end (Newer growth). This is just within a single leaf. "Yellowing" will normally start from the tip of leaves not from the stem side. . |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Growing Tomatoes Forum
Information about Posting
- You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
- Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
- We have a strict no-advertising policy!
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.
Learn more about in-text links on this page here
