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robinava

Mulching Tomatoes

robinava
9 years ago

Thanks to your many suggestions my cattle panels are in place as well as my heirloom tomatoes.

I understand that tomatoes need to be mulched. When do I mulch them and what should I use as my mulch? I do have some bags of fine pine bark, would that work?

Comments (12)

  • DHLCAL
    9 years ago

    The bark should work. As should straw, pine needle, wood chip, etc. I'd just make sure that I have sufficient depth of mulch so that it actually does what is intended (conserve moisture, block weeds, etc.).

    I am using pine needles and composted yard waste because they are free.

  • seysonn
    9 years ago

    Mulch material , IMO, should allow for the soil to breathe, for the water to go down...
    For this reason I am AGAINST using newspaper, cradboard, and grass clippings. The tend to cake up and get mushy. I tried some sun dried grass clippings last year. Not ever again. too MUSHY all summer long. and good heaven for slugs and earwigs.

    I like PINE STRAW but I cannot find it around here. The next best thing is SMALL PINE NUGGETS. I get a 2 cu-ft bag for about $4.00. Be warned that I am NOT talking about shredded pine sapwood, and/or some of those colored mulches ; just pine bark.

  • rbreedi1
    9 years ago

    Hello all, Ive got some pine straw to mulch my tomatoes. How thick of a layer do I need and when do you guys recommend adding the mulch? Thanks

  • sleevendog (5a NY 6aNYC NL CA)
    9 years ago

    Not really a rush to mulch right away but i usually go ahead if i have it. I use dry seedless straw that is chipped rather fine. I put on about three inches that quickly compacts to about two after a few rainy days. One of the few things i actually purchase every year. Just one big compacted bale, same brand. Covers all my beds, herb starts etc.
    It really depends on how large your mulch is in particle size. I use regular hay in the back 40 for squash, pumpkins etc and use much more as it is thick and longer stalks and hard to control. Thick wet newspaper under it in the pathways. That area tend to get muddy after big storms, so i have it handy and tuck it under larger winter squash as it forms.

    Different brand purchased mulches or locally collected are so different. You just want a thickness, 2-4 inches that does the job intended...allows water thru easily, etc.

  • digdirt2
    9 years ago

    When it comes to mulch I prefer to use things that will improve the soil at the same time as it mulches the plants to help retain moisture and block weeds. Wood chips of any kind don't do that. Straw, hay, grass clippings, compost, pine straw, and similar mulches do. Even cardboard and newspaper will benefit the soil over time as they decompose.

    As to when to apply - if using it for moisture control purposes then add it when the soil has warmed to the plants ideal growth range and when maintaining soil moisture levels gets difficult. That is usually much earlier in container plants than in ground. So if you are still have cool/rainy weather, wait a bit. if you are already having extremely warm dry weather add it now.

    How much? generally the more the better but some is better than none. And depending on type used. For straw and hay 6" is often recommended, for wood chips 2-4"

    You can find many discussions about the pros and cons of various mulches and application times and amounts over on the Soil & Mulches forum here.

    Dave

  • DHLCAL
    9 years ago

    Dave,

    Doesn't woodchip mulch break down like any other organic material? See here, for example:

    http://aswcd.org/Woodchips.pdf

  • michelliot
    9 years ago

    Never had any problems using landscape material.

  • digdirt2
    9 years ago

    Doesn't woodchip mulch break down like any other organic material? See here, for example:

    Yes it does. But like the other products used primarily for perennial landscaping mulch rather than for annual beds that will be worked regularly, it takes it much longer to break down than the others - years vs. months - and it binds up more nitrogen in the process of decomposition. Supplemental nitrogen can compensate for that.

    And price is also a consideration. In many locales you can get hay, straw, grass clippings, compost, etc. for free or for much less money than woodchips. Since we compost extensively and grow and mow our own hay I have no need to use them except in the wife's flower beds.

    But bulk wood chips - when you can get them and have the room to stockpile them for a year or so and mix them with lots of other high nitrogen ingredients makes some really great compost for using as both mulch and soil amending. Whenever the powerline tree-trimmers make it out to our neck of the county I always let them dump on my property.

    Chalker-Scott makes some good points but some of her arguments are directly challenged by other research and often debated on the Soil and Mulch forum.

    As I understand the issues raised (no guarantees on accuracy), other studies show the benefits only result from using certain types and sizes of wood chips - less than 3" ramial that contains a high percentage of bark and buds. Conversely, the problems develop when larger particle, low bark and bud chips are used. If we could insure what is actual in the bags of wood chip mulch we buy it might be fine to use right out of the bag. But we can't be sure so many recommend stockpiling first. And i 'think' Chalker-Scott agrees that as decomposition increases so do the benefits.

    Dave

  • sleevendog (5a NY 6aNYC NL CA)
    9 years ago

    Once again it is your climate and soil and drainage. Bulky chips in my area are no different than rocks. Rain and water rolls off where i need good water to penetrate. I get dumploads for free from the spring tree trimming crews. And use them where i see the need. Exterior garden edging...around the shady garden shed. 12-15 inches twice now has made a nice weed-free level area from a previous sloping area.
    Sage and tarragon survives the winter and is not fussy. I use newspaper and hide the ugly with straw. Probably helps keep it a bit dry with so many spring storms.
    My tomatoes are so different than other crops. With twice weekly storms and showers and full day sun, often rain and sun simultaneously, i need the even penetration of moisture, not run-off. Compacted mulches prevent rain to get where it is needed.
    My hay is free so i use it where it is best suited.
    Straw has been great for my tomatoes. Seed-free is best for those beds.
    Chunky mulch may be fine for some and will break down, but i use what i find works best for my climate and soil. In zone 4-5 a finer mulch might be a better choice.
    For top dressing.
    Trying different methods is how we find what works best.
    For 6b and a first season tomato garden i might try something finer to help the soil along faster for the next season...

  • DHLCAL
    9 years ago

    I agree with most of what is said above: a good tomato mulch would be something that breaks down relatively quickly and is preferably free or cheap.
    What these are depend on a number of factors associated with one 's location

    In the Los Angeles area, the bagged mulches sold at garden centers (for roughly $4-5 per 2 cubic feet and up aside from sales) include pine/fir bark nuggets of various sizes, and "colored mulch"-- sapwood, possibly chipped up pallets, died red, brown or black. These are probably not ideal, but is likely better than no mulch in our dry hot summer.

    I've been using pine needles-- fallen into our yard for free-- and partially composted yard trimmings offered by the city of LA (put in piles at a dozen locations, shovel as much as you want). They have worked well.

    The tree services are also offering freshly chipped up trees, which would have a decent mix of different tree part, dumped at your home at no charge. I haven't gotten those because I don't have that much space and don't need a whole 10 cubic yard truck load of mulch at once.

  • rbreedi1
    9 years ago

    It is forcasted to be in the 80's here for the next 10 days, we had a little cool weather this past weekend in the 60's. Im thinking about putting the pine straw in my garden area this weekend. Would that be enough time to warm the ground? It was 70-80s last week as well until the cool weekend.

    Update: I checked soil temp and it was 78-80 at 2-3 inches

    This post was edited by rbreedi1 on Wed, May 21, 14 at 19:32

  • seysonn
    9 years ago

    @ rbreedi1,.. Yet another benefit of GOOD mulch, to keep the soil cooler in hot climates.

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