Sounds like you've got everything planned correctly. My first frost is around mid-November as well. I put out transplants somewhere between July 4th and 15th. There's not really much you can do about the heat. Some shade the first few days after transplanting can help, but tomatoes need sunlight to grow. The heat shouldn't be too bad for them, other than causing blossom drop. Just keep them watered well and watch out for fungal diseases.

Jason

Jason-
Thanks for the encouragement....any tricks you have to keep the fungal diseases away?...had some last year, which of course didn't help, so I'm not sure I have the best formula against them.
Tom

Most folks use daconil for fungal diseases, or use potassium bicarbonate or baking soda as an organic alternative. Daconil is a preventative--needs to be sprayed before the disease shows up, or at least before it gets out of hand. Good cultural methods are very helpful--caging or staking, mulch and drip irrigation all help keep the foliage dry and less susceptible to developing fungal disease problems.

Jason-
Never heard about potassium bicarbonate or baking soda...what is the mixing formula for baking soda? Would like to try it as I'd prefer to stay away from the Daconil. Have been trying aspirin and alfalfa tea sprays. Also have them caged with drip irrigation...Thanks.
Tom

The potassium bicarbonate or baking soda needs to be mixed with oil (horticultural oil or vegetable oil). Use 1 TBSP of bicarb and 1 TBSP oil in 1 gallon of water. This works great on powdery mildew, but I'm not sure how effective it might be on early blight and other fungal diseases.

In Late fall crops, early blight will slow down due to lower night temps.

Remember, early blight grows fast with dew on the leafs and temps above 60*. Take either one away and it slows it down.