Clickable link to Greg's photo: tomatoes

Greg, the experts will come around to answer soon, but some leaves look like early blight to me.. you have a lot of leaves touching the soil which is not good. you should always avoid that by pruning those lower branches to decrease the spread of the spores from the soil onto your foliage. Also, your plants could possibly be stressed by the small size of those containers.

I cant open the pix but with suspected fungus the treatment is usally to remove affected leaves and spray with a good fungicide such as Daconil, available everywhere. If possible, it is better to water earlier in the day as moisture around the plants all night encourages disease. I can tell when my containers plants need water by the weight of the container when I lift the corner up. Even with rocks in the bottom, which are not needed by the way, you can get used to what if feels like heavy with water, or out of water. Also, you can gently dig down several inches to see if it needs water. Yellowing leaves can be a symptom of overwater.

Thanks natalie1313, and suncitylinda for the info. I am gonna switch my watering to mornings and get rid of those lower leaves. On my way now to see about some Daconil. I have been watering everyday because it has been in the 90's and the fact that they are in containers...but i always stick a finger into the soil up past the second knuckle to see if their is any moisture and it comes back dry i water. I don't know how scientific it is or where i heard it but that is what i have been doing. The potting soil is mostly miracle grow soil but i did mix a little of the cheaper potting soil in. The miracle grow does have some fertilizer in it but i did add some of the miracle grow shake and feed after planting. I called miracle grow to ask them how often i should fertilize and they told me that this was a timed release product and should be good for 90 days. Maybe i should have stuck with the good old standard miracle grow.

spfx, if you mulch around the plants it will conserve moisture and keep the moisture more consistent between waterings, which will lessen stress for the plants.

[Since you are growing in containers, I hope the bagged "potting soils" you used did not actually contain dirt, as that can cause drainage problems in containers; a soil-less mix should be used.]

Thanks, missingtheobvious i will try the mulch. The potting soils do not contain dirt as best as i can tell and they seem to drain well. I got some of the Daconil today and a small spray bottle but i have not used it yet as the label kinda scared me. I have a Jack Russell and he "helps" me water and i have caught him drinking the water out of the pots as i water. He is my very best buddy and i don't want to use anything that will hurt him. I pulled off the bottom yellow leaves and i am watering early in the day but i am really hesitant about that Daconil...it even mentioned something about not eating the fruit off the plants and i do have some small tomatoes on them.

Okay: I just read the info on my bottle of Daconil concentrate. Cover your skin, wear the appropriate kind of mask and goggles, and a shower afterward would be a good idea. Now I remember why I didn't use it last year.

it even mentioned something about not eating the fruit off the plants

Where did you see that? Why would they recommend it for use on tomatoes (not to mention other veggies) if you couldn't eat the fruit? What would be the point?

It says wash your hands before eating, but I can't find anything about washing the tomato or waiting a certain number of days after spraying before eating. In fact, in the PHI column ("days required between last application and harvest") it says zero for tomatoes.

I know Daconil binds to a certain site on tomato leaves (and stems?). Maybe it doesn't stick to the fruit?

But I'd think they'd say something about washing the fruit (or, for other veggies, the leaves or whatever)....