I am no FW expert but I think normally is between two twines and free. So in case of wind or something the stems should come in contact wit the twines on either side. Therefore , the twines on two sides should have a minimum spacing, in order not to squeeze the stem.
It also occurs to me that the stem must be restraint , in order to to fall in the direction of almost two parallel twines. So there has to be some kind af arrangement on both sides,

I have never used the FW, nor have I studied the design. Does the twine have to cross? If you uncross it and pull it tight, it should eliminate the problem. Otherwise, you could use spacers of some sort along the line.

The plants will tend to rub and get some scarring from the twine. It's not something you should set out to do but the plant should normally heal. So a little rubbing damage could happen but it is usually not something to worry about - especially in smaller gardens.

It is important to holding the plant up to keep the line taut. When using wooden stakes this is even more important and they tend to "give" and the twine loosen over time (see below for a "fix" to that problem).

As far as twine, it's best not to use something too thin. I cannot really tell if this is the case from your picture. Thin line can enough to break a stem. But probably the most important thing is that it is strong enough to hold the weight and can weather well throughout the season. Cotton or jute can rot/dry out/UV damage before the season is over. If that happens the plants could fall over and you'll have a mess that is hard to fix. Wet mature plants loaded with fruit in a windy thunderstorm are very heavy and can snap in the right cross wind if the line is not strong enough (another reason to try to use metal post instead of PVC or wood).

I use poly baling twine. It is thicker than what it appears you have used. One doesn't have to get the slightly more expensive UV stable kind. The regular kind will last through a season. Some hardware stores sell poly twine that is thinner than baling twine. It can break and if you have a lot of stringing to do it can tend to cut into your hands.

Now how you have chosen to weave it is fine. I think you have tended to create more work for yourself than necessary. The highlighted area I think is unnecessary. I tried to draw out the 2 ways I know of that are most often used when stringing.

{{gwi:1340372}}

Here is an extension photo showing the easier method of weaving

Better drawn view from The Garden Betty's blog

I use the method in the center of the first picture and directly above. I learned this back in the early 90's and always knew this as the "Florida Method" and the more figure 8 way as the "Missouri Method". I am from Missouri but learned all this back east. The joking thought in my head at the time was "some Ozark hillbilly had to complicate it". Now I see in garden and extension publications the terms reversed. I suspect some person reversed the terms and it became gospel among writers (things like this happen often in extension). Maybe I learned it wrong in North Carolina!

There really isn't much difference. The figure 8 method keeps the two vines in between the stakes separate better but I think its a pain to do if one has lots of stringing. I find it easier to keep the line taut when stringing with the easier method.

Here are maintenance suggestions for the staking process that may or may not need to be done.

These suggestions are more important for wooden stakes. Since you are using T-posts most of this may not be necessary. If you drove the T-posts deep enough the string should stay tight. When stringing, pulling the higher level strings tight tends to pull back on the stakes and loosen lower strings (another reason for keeping taut and even tension as one weaves). So if you need to pull T-posts tighter, simply use some string/rope tied to the top of the posts at the end of the rows, pull tight and tie off to a short stake near the ground (like one would a tent post).

One can or may need to add a taller wooden post to extend the height of a T-post for indeterminates in the manner show above in the maintenance picture for replacing a broken post. Since the T-post is what's in the ground one can just slip a wooden stake (furring strips work well) in between the strings without really needing to drive it in the ground (which could do some minor root damage). Then tie the wood stake and T-post together at the bottom and top for good support. Wait until a plant grows to that point to do so otherwise it can be somewhat difficult to weave the string earlier in the season if the row is long.

Excellent post Mule!

Personally, I find crossing between the plants to be helpful in holding them up. If I don't cross in the middle, the plants tend to fall together towards the middle. I don't cross the twines near the posts.

Betsy

Wow, thanks for the responses. And Mule, thanks for such an extensive and thoughtful reply! That is so helpful. I know other people will be grateful to find this when searching about the FW as well.

So, I think i'll modify my weave a bit- and not cross the twine right at the posts, but instead cross them between the plants. I might also look into a thicker twine.

If i'm changing the weave, do you think it necessary to redo what's already there- or just change it as I move upwards?

Thanks again!

Just change it on future strands. No need to do it on the lower one, and you'd chance breaking a plant by trying to remove it.

Hmmm, I wonder if it would be effective to alternate styles with each strand? I'll have to cogitate on that one.

Betsy

I'm having trouble keeping my lines tight. I am using jute twine and I don't think it's stretching - I'm just not getting it tight enough to begin with. I don't really have anyone who can help me, so any tricks to getting it right the first time? Going up, can I pre-do tight lines and work my plants in to them as they grow? Any suggestions welcome as I have 52 plants and I'm questioning my ability to support them right now. Thanks!

You could rig something up with pegs (turn or fixed for making loops) like this if you are on your own and want a cool, simple system:

Violin tuning

If it works you might have the world's first musical row of tomatoes to add to the sounds of wind chimes ;) I haven't read the old thread you found but it looked like it has nice and logical ideas, like putting in second end posts or anchor posts too. You could use turnbuckles in your anchor posts, too.

Turnbuckles

Pre-stringing would lose some adaptability but you could do it, though it might not be all you hope I bet it works if the flowers don't get a chance to be wacked against them in winds, but it would stress the plant stems more if they got too long and had to be back-woven in, if my metal trellis is any indication. I suppose if that happened you could tie the stems like we might with a trellis. Stringing along with the plants allows you more liberty to tighten and adjust as needed as things change.

PC