My concern is that the twine is pushing up against the main stem of several plants, and looks like it might have (and be?) cutting into them a bit. Is this normal for the FW? Or- am I pulling it too taut, or using the wrong kind of twine?

There's a pic of the full weave below (did I do this right?), and here's a link to a pic of the twine pushed up against a stem:

Link to Photo

I'm new to this- any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.

It is important to holding the plant up to keep the line taut. When using wooden stakes this is even more important and they tend to "give" and the twine loosen over time (see below for a "fix" to that problem).

As far as twine, it's best not to use something too thin. I cannot really tell if this is the case from your picture. Thin line can enough to break a stem. But probably the most important thing is that it is strong enough to hold the weight and can weather well throughout the season. Cotton or jute can rot/dry out/UV damage before the season is over. If that happens the plants could fall over and you'll have a mess that is hard to fix. Wet mature plants loaded with fruit in a windy thunderstorm are very heavy and can snap in the right cross wind if the line is not strong enough (another reason to try to use metal post instead of PVC or wood).

I use poly baling twine. It is thicker than what it appears you have used. One doesn't have to get the slightly more expensive UV stable kind. The regular kind will last through a season. Some hardware stores sell poly twine that is thinner than baling twine. It can break and if you have a lot of stringing to do it can tend to cut into your hands.

Now how you have chosen to weave it is fine. I think you have tended to create more work for yourself than necessary. The highlighted area I think is unnecessary. I tried to draw out the 2 ways I know of that are most often used when stringing.

Here is an extension photo showing the easier method of weaving

Better drawn view from The Garden Betty's blog

I use the method in the center of the first picture and directly above. I learned this back in the early 90's and always knew this as the "Florida Method" and the more figure 8 way as the "Missouri Method". I am from Missouri but learned all this back east. The joking thought in my head at the time was "some Ozark hillbilly had to complicate it". Now I see in garden and extension publications the terms reversed. I suspect some person reversed the terms and it became gospel among writers (things like this happen often in extension). Maybe I learned it wrong in North Carolina!

There really isn't much difference. The figure 8 method keeps the two vines in between the stakes separate better but I think its a pain to do if one has lots of stringing. I find it easier to keep the line taut when stringing with the easier method.

Here are maintenance suggestions for the staking process that may or may not need to be done.

These suggestions are more important for wooden stakes. Since you are using T-posts most of this may not be necessary. If you drove the T-posts deep enough the string should stay tight. When stringing, pulling the higher level strings tight tends to pull back on the stakes and loosen lower strings (another reason for keeping taut and even tension as one weaves). So if you need to pull T-posts tighter, simply use some string/rope tied to the top of the posts at the end of the rows, pull tight and tie off to a short stake near the ground (like one would a tent post).

One can or may need to add a taller wooden post to extend the height of a T-post for indeterminates in the manner show above in the maintenance picture for replacing a broken post. Since the T-post is what's in the ground one can just slip a wooden stake (furring strips work well) in between the strings without really needing to drive it in the ground (which could do some minor root damage). Then tie the wood stake and T-post together at the bottom and top for good support. Wait until a plant grows to that point to do so otherwise it can be somewhat difficult to weave the string earlier in the season if the row is long.

Personally, I find crossing between the plants to be helpful in holding them up. If I don't cross in the middle, the plants tend to fall together towards the middle. I don't cross the twines near the posts.

Betsy

So, I think i'll modify my weave a bit- and not cross the twine right at the posts, but instead cross them between the plants. I might also look into a thicker twine.

If i'm changing the weave, do you think it necessary to redo what's already there- or just change it as I move upwards?

Thanks again!

Hmmm, I wonder if it would be effective to alternate styles with each strand? I'll have to cogitate on that one.

Betsy