It is up to you. A lot of people do remove any branches that will touch the ground, others allow their plants to sprawl, and some will tie up the lower branches into their support system (if they use one).

If you have a problem with soil borne diseases, then it might be a good idea to remove them, but that will stress the plant some and you might lose some of the tomatoes. If you do remove them, use a sharp knife or shears so that you don't leave a tear on the main stem.

Personally I remove any low branches when the plants are smaller and try to tuck any others up into my Florida weave. I also remove any low growing suckers when they are small.

I hope that helps.

Betsy

Same here - as the plant grows I remove any that are dragging on the ground until the time comes to get my thick layer of mulch down. Once there is no direct soil contact or soil splash to worry about I ignore them.

Dave

We put down a thick layer of mulch yesterday, but I thought you were supposed to keep the mulch away from the stem of the plant, so there is a 2-3 inch circle of bare soil around the base of the main stem, which I expect will still allow some soil splash up.

I think I can manage to tie up the lower branches onto the support I have them on, I got started late this season and really don't want to set the plant back by cutting off branches.

Thanks!

tomatoes have a reputation for bacterial/fungal diseases. Wet leaves contribute to this problem often. Take them off.

I thought you were supposed to keep the mulch away from the stem of the plant,

That all depends on the mulch you use. Those with nitrogen binding properties, yes. Otherwise, no.

Dave

I take mine off, I usually put red plastic down at planting time or else mulch with straw or grass.

Hmm. I put mulch around the stem without any spacing. I hope it's ok... just normal brown mulch.

Dave, I normally use mixed chopped leaves with grass clippings for mulch, but this year I'm out of leaves, so I've added a thick layer of bark chips. Not shredded bark mulch, and not wood chips, but small pine bark chips. I would assume there is some nitrogen binding going on, right?

I thought keeping the mulch away from the trunk or stem of any plant was to prevent rot?

Pine nuggets are my choice mulch right now. I don't think that nitrogen binding is a problem hear, because it is on the top not in the soil. Even then it should not be a problem. There is potting mix that 70% of it is pine bark fines (5-1-1).
I should mention that sap wood is a different story.

Yes, that is how I came by the pine bark 'chips' which I was looking for to try that
5-1-1 container potting soil mix that they discuss so much on the container forum. It is what they refer to as the 'pine bark fines' and useable as a potting mix when sifted to smaller size particles, but I use it right out of the bag for mulch on the top of the vegetable bed. This is my first year using it in the vegetable beds.

But -- isn't there a suggestion to use enough nitrogen fertilizer with that potting mix that is 70% pine bark fines, to offset any nitrogen binding?

Since I live in a cool climate I cut the bottom foot of the branches off so the sun reaches the soil around the plant.

But -- isn't there a suggestion to use enough nitrogen fertilizer with that potting mix that is 70% pine bark fines, to offset any nitrogen binding?

Exactly. Most any wood chips will. Straw, hay, grass clippings, leaf mold, etc. do not. Although grass clippings if not dried first can burn stems.

Apologies to the OP for this thread going so far off topic.

Dave

Pine barks should not be mistaken with "Wood Chips"..
.........
On the removal of lower branches, I am for it for more than one reason:

== To provide air flow. Soil born fungi cannot thrive where is good air movement. The ones that are touching the ground are invitation for diseases (at stagnant state)

=== The lower leaves are often shaded heavily and do not make much contribution. That is why most of them aborted by the plant. So until then they are just burden. (IMO)