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| I have Big Zac and Georgia Streak tomatoes in Earthboxes that are developing blossom end rot. I bought some liquid calcium that calls for 2 tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. The directions say to spray it on the plants. Would it be safe to dilute to 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water and pour it into the Earthbox fill tube? Is there anything else I can do to combat BER in my Earthboxes? I set them up exactly as the directions said, added the lime just as it said. But, BER! |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by homegardenpa PA Zone 6 (My Page) on Thu, Jun 10, 10 at 14:48
| There are a bunch of discussions on BER and almost all of them address that BER isn't usually a lack of calcium per say, but rather, it has to do with the plants inability to properly distribute calcium throughout the plant. This generally happens from lack of water, but you are growing in earthboxes so I wouldn't normally think that was the issue here. So trying to avoid stating the obvious, but are you sure that the earthboxes are setup correctly and that the soil is wicking up sufficient water from the resovoir? I'd open the tops and pull the mulch back to see how moist the soil is underneath. If after you check that, you notice the soil to be fine water-wise, then I'd check for calcium problems. A lot of people here are more experienced with earthbozes than I am, but generally the planting mix + lime should be more than sufficient for calcium needs of the season - or so I'd think. |
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| If you are on Tville, there is a nice thread going discussing exactly your issues. I'm in Ray's earthtainers and one earthbox this year and have had a serious issue with BER, especially with Stupice and Goose Creek. Others, not so much...so there appears to be a varietal tolerance or intolerance as it were, on the BER issue. The short version of the lengthy thread is that liquid calcium in the water looks to be something the plants can quickly utilize and, my experience only, is that it appears to work. I've been adding a liquid calcium magnesium product with every refill, and BER has slowed dramatically. I also addressed the other issue I was concered about, extreme heat, by raising the tainers off the ground (I was on a driveway), 50% shade cloth and using a bamboo shade to shade the boxes themselves from directly sunlight. (They were hot to the touch, so I suspect the roots were getting too hot). With multiple changes, it is difficult to say to what degree the calcium is helping, but something is helping, or more likley, a combination of factors is helping. Also, you can go the the earthbox forums and type in "the snack" and read scads of comments about liquid feeds and they are mostly very positive. Good luck. |
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- Posted by ricker1958 NE MS 7 (My Page) on Thu, Jun 10, 10 at 16:36
| I am pretty sure I've set up the earthboxes correctly, but I'm going to take the advice and check. In NE Mississippi we have had an unusually hot early summer. It's been in the 90's and very humid. The earthboxes are on a concrete surface. I'll check the boxes and see how hot they are, but I'm certain they must be hot. I appreciate the feedback and the links to other forums. You can check out my garden setup on YouTube. Type in caledoniagardener and my video's are there. |
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- Posted by homegardenpa PA Zone 6 (My Page) on Thu, Jun 10, 10 at 16:50
| "They were hot to the touch, so I suspect the roots were getting too hot" You're right, I wasn't even thinking about excess heat at the roots, but that could definitely be a major contributing factor. This would almost never be a problem for me where I am in PA zone 6, but where you guys are it would surely be a concern. Even if you don't think they are getting to hot, it couldn't hurt to raise them up (could probably even just use 2x4s) and shade the boxes somehow. |
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- Posted by butchfomby 6 (butchfomby@yahoo.com) on Sat, Apr 6, 13 at 6:46
| LEARN HOW TO MAKE LIQUID CALCIUM AND LIQUID CALCIUM PHOSPHATE...AND WHEN TO APPLY THEM....REAL CHEAP...BY USING SPRAY THE PLANTS WILL GET CALCIUM...CHECK OUT PRO KASHI.COM, WITH BRIAN, KOREAN NATURAL FARMING ON YOU TUBE....ROY |
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| Calcium nitrate. It's cheap and simply dissolves in water. High or very high (K)Potash levels w/ cause BER also. |
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Our favorite tomato expert Carolyn137 wrote an excellent response to a question about Blossom End Rot (BER) and I am quoting it here:
I suppose that if your roots are too hot, that could affect calcium uptake and therefore distribution. In some cases a foliar spray does help. But, usually, as Carolyn mentioned, time is the best help. Betsy |
Here is a link that might be useful: FAQ page on Blossom End Rot
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| I'm reading a soil test report in front of me that was just done by UMASS. K20 (k) last number in X-X-X 5-10-10 etc. My (k) level is high (220 ppm) on this sample. UMASS says... " Sideressing w/ calcium nitrate and avoiding excessive potash (k) levels will reduce the chances of blossom end rot" |
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| Since i have been using Dyna gro "Protekt" from seedling to maturity i have bigger, healthier, stress tolerant plants with a big reduction in BER. Cal Mag is another product that helps in the BER battle. A steady application of ACT's helps your plants fight off many other diseases and insects. |
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| i use one ounce per gallon of the calcium chloride to clear up my blossom end rot problem, in my indoor growing tomatoes- this is the stuff you use to put on your sidewalk to melt the ice in winter - you water the plants with it - it works great. add a lot of bonemeal to your growing mix and some compost to introduce organisms that will feed on it to release the calcium - pm. |
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