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| I always have blight issues but this year it's worse since it practically hasn't stopped raining since May. Is there something besides chlorothalonil that is more effective than copper? I've went through over 10 gallons of copper and my 8 tomato plants are still starting to lose the war. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| If you browse through all the previous discussions here on fungicides you'll find that some report that alternating copper sprays with Mancozeb seems to help. You'll also see that many consider just about any fungicide better than copper. Otherwise Daconil (chlorothalonil) always seems to come out on top in testing and controlled studies. Of course that all depends on the actual disease you may have. The term "blight" can mean many different things, any one of 5 or 6 different diseases with different causes and different treatments. Dave |
Here is a link that might be useful: Fungicide discussions
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| I gave the garden a good dose of Daconil today with that suspicious rainstorm moving toward the NE |
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- Posted by spicymeatball none (My Page) on Fri, Jun 28, 13 at 1:03
| Thanks Dave I'll look into Mancozeb. I've never heard of it. I've read a lot about chlorothalonil over the past couple days. I might just have to bite the bullet and do it. I can hear the fungus spreading from where I'm sitting right now. It's a misty mess outside right now. I've heard mixed answers on questions similar to these: The plants have..whatever it is that they have now. I trim the infected leaves and branches. Does spraying keep it from spreading, does it kill it even on leaves showing symptoms? Does one only prevent, and another prevent and cure? |
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| All fungicides are basically preventatives and work best if applied before the fungus can attach to the leaves. Thus the standard recommendation of using it from the day of plant out before the plants are exposed to air borne or soil borne fungus. Plus spring weather conditions are the most conducive to fungus growth and development. The advantages/disadvantages in the various brands of fungicides is the ability to prevent. If used after the fact, they can slow its growth and/or spread but they don't "cure" it. Used after the fact some, or a combination of 2, may work better than others depending on the particular type of fungus involved. That's why knowing exactly what the fungus disease is can be important. And of course this doesn't even address the so-called "blights" that are caused by bacteria, not fungus. Dave |
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- Posted by spicymeatball none (My Page) on Fri, Jun 28, 13 at 17:56
| Really? I was under the impression that early blight was fungal issue? Most of the leaves show a yellowing then immediate browning starting from the tips and edges of the leaves working its way in. Some of them start as an irregular spot in the cent of the leave, brown center with yellow ring. |
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| Early Blight is a fungal issue. My reference above was to your use of the term "blight" - "I always have blight". There are 3 different types of Blight - Early, Late, and Southern all with difference causes and symptoms. Plus we have a chronic problem here with the fact that many folks use the term "blight" for their tomato problem no matter what it actually is - Alternaria, nutrient deficiency, Powdery Mildew, leaf mold, Septoria, Bacterial Speck, etc. etc. etc. Without seeing it I can't tell what disease you have so I take your word for it being Early Blight. Dave |
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- Posted by spicymeatball none (My Page) on Fri, Jun 28, 13 at 20:07
| Ok thanks. |
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