|
| Sometimes this gets iffy. We seem to get a lot of 'showers' in the forecast. Sometimes day after day. Often when showers are forecast, the next town over will get rain but I won't get a drop. So I will end up putting the soaker hose on, even when rain is in the forecast, because I can't count on it. But then I think if it rains, my tomatoes will split from too much rain. I can't be the only one who wrestles with this. How do you keep your tomato plants consistently moist and not over do it? |
Follow-Up Postings:
|
- Posted by DBrown2351 5 (My Page) on Wed, Jun 25, 14 at 20:33
| I just make sure they get at least an inch a week. If it rains that much , great. If I water them and it rains for the next 3 days, so be it. I won't wait around for rain that may never come. I water overhead with 2 oscillating sprinklers. I like to see a large pool of water around each plant after watering. A lot of people will not water overhead, but that's how mother That said, we have had so much rain here that I've only watered once since planting on May 22. |
This post was edited by DBrown2351 on Wed, Jun 25, 14 at 20:43
|
| I also water overhead, So far I only watered by hand twice, We had a good rain fall so far this year, It has been hot and we need rain again and luckly it is raining now, Good timing. |
|
| Watering depend on temperature and the amount of direct sun. In my PNW climate once a week is enough. If we get heat wave and no rain then twice a week. With pots I normally do twice a week. About Rain: I would not depend on the forecast. I have rain gauge . If it rains more than an inch I would skip watering. |
|
| 1 inch of rain = ~7.7 gallons of water, for the most part. I use 4 gph sprayers, if no rain I run them for 2hrs, giving me 8 gallons over the radius. |
|
- Posted by prairiemoon2 zone 6a/MA (My Page) on Thu, Jun 26, 14 at 12:49
| I do put out a container to measure rain when we get it. This spring we had a good amount of rain, but from this point on, we get more gray cover, with afternoon pop up showers that are hit or miss interspersed with sunny days. Yay, we did get a downpour in the night and are expecting a little more today. But I wasn’t sure from the forecast, I would get it, so I watered all my vegetable beds yesterday. Oh well. So I can’t help but feel they got a little too much water this week. Although I have raised beds 12” off the ground, so I think that helps. I try not to water overhead even though I realize mother nature waters overhead, I can’t help but wonder if the chlorine in our city water, which seems to be on the increase every year, might have a negative effect on plants. I am trying to use soaker hoses, but I think my water pressure is not high enough to get the water to travel through multiple connected hoses, so I’m having to water one or two beds out of five, at a time at the moment and I’m doing it that way. Seysonn, thanks for the reminder, that temperature and amount of sunlight make a lot of difference. I have no problem skipping watering ‘after’ I’ve had rain. It’s waiting for rain to come and not getting it, that I then have to finally decide to water and then it rains. [g] MoleX, what is a gph sprayer? That is good to know that it takes 7.7 gallons of water to equal one inch of rain. So if I had a shrub that needed water and it didn’t rain one week, I would have to pour a 5 gallon container of water around the base and another half of that to give it the one inch of rain? Do you all water by schedule or do you actually check the soil before you water to see how moist or dry it is? |
|
- Posted by naturegirl_2007 5B SW Michigan (My Page) on Thu, Jun 26, 14 at 14:24
| Do you all water by schedule or do you actually check the soil before you water to see how moist or dry it is? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------- I check the soil and look at the plants. I also am outdoors a lot of the time and know how the weather has affected me and how it will likely affect the plants. Wind, humidity, sun intensity, clouds, plant size, plant type, shade patterns, etc., as well as rain affect soil moisture. A schedule doesn't work for my garden watering. |
|
| agreeing with sey....where I live it does not rain April-October. That makes it a no-brainer. As was stated...container watering is much more frequent. |
|
| Check the soil before you water. A very unscientific method: stick your finger in. If it's dry about 2-3 inches down, the plants need water. If possible, water at the soil line. This prevents splashing -- which helps prevent the spread of fungi and bacteria that live in the soil. More helpful info: http://www.tomatodirt.com/watering-tomatoes-faqs.html |
Here is a link that might be useful: Watering Tomatoes FAQs
|
- Posted by sleevendog 5-6 (My Page) on Thu, Jun 26, 14 at 18:13
| Once again i t seems to be experience and knowing you climate and soil... During the early season getting plant growth, i don't mind a bit of drying out... Too dry in July with extreme heat is problematic as fruit is setting, then massive rain... 'don't let it dry in July'... keep on it when very hot. I give deep soaks and back off a couple days. I go ahead and pick small pears and sun golds formed beyond blush because they will split in a good rain...best to ripen on the kitchen counter.... |
|
| 1 inch of rain = ~7.7 gallons of water, for the most part. %%%%%%%%%%% not that much. One inch of rain is about 1/2 gallon per square foot. So if a tomato root is spread under 2ft by 2ft area( = 4 sqr-ft) then it will get about 2 gallons of water. That is enough to skip watering. |
|
- Posted by prairiemoon2 zone 6a/MA (My Page) on Fri, Jun 27, 14 at 8:29
| I do see what you are saying, Naturegirl, if you are outdoors a lot, you do get a feel for what the plants are experiencing. I’m not out there as much as I would like, so that doesn’t usually help me much. Fireduck, we get rain, just that when rain is forecast, 8 out of 10 times, the forecast is for scattered showers in the afternoon. It’s very hit or miss, so I almost have to ignore the forecast. Which I guess works for me most of the time, but sometimes I get caught having just watered before rain. Kathy, thanks for the link, I’ll check those out. I do check the soil with my finger but unless it is totally bone dry, I can usually detect some moisture. So I guess it’s a question of degree. Sleevendog, That is part of my problem this year, that I had to purchase soil for new raised beds, so I have half my beds filled with my own soil from the old garden beds, that has been organically managed for years and half the garden beds are filled with organic native soil that is not as high in organic matter and drains differently than what I’ve been growing in for years. So you pick the cherry tomatoes that are almost ripe before a heavy rain is forecast, so they won’t split? If tomatoes split, you can still eat them right? Is it just cosmetic? Seysonn, do they show the ‘gallon per minute’ flow on the tag when you buy your hose nozzle, or are you just determining that yourself by timing how long it takes to fill a container?
|
|
- Posted by missingtheobvious Blue Ridge 7a (My Page) on Fri, Jun 27, 14 at 8:39
| You can pick your tomatoes as soon as they begin to change color. This prevents the water-caused splitting, prevents the flavor from being "watered down", and also removes the fruit from the possibility of being eaten by hornworms, damaged by bird pecks, or stolen by squirrels or raccoons. And picking after the color "breaks" does not affect the flavor. |
|
- Posted by prairiemoon2 zone 6a/MA (My Page) on Fri, Jun 27, 14 at 8:52
| That's interesting MTObvious, I guess in my mind, I've always thought that the tasteless tomatoes I buy in the store, are tasteless because they have not been allowed to ripen on the vine. So it would surprise me that picking early would not affect the flavor. Don't the commercial growers wait and pick 'after the color breaks'? |
|
| most experts agree that the taste of tomatoes is not affected if you wait at least until they are turning red. On watering...lots of good conversation here. Predicting weather for your summer rains is a slippery slope....huh? No answer for that one. As for how damp is your soil??? I always advise gardeners to make a small investment (10?) in a moisture meter probe. They really do work. |
|
- Posted by sleevendog 5-6 (My Page) on Fri, Jun 27, 14 at 11:57
| "...half the garden beds are filled with organic native soil that is not as high in organic matter and drains differently than what I’ve been growing in for years..." ---------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- I am dealing with the same. Two new tomato beds. Both have been covered and never planted before. One was a garden path so very compacted...took some work but ended up with a mounded row. We shall see. Nice experiment/experience though. So far... A few varieties i always pick a bit early. Especially those that have spilt in the past. As mentioned, early pick, counter ripened, does not affect flavor. I don'y have my notes with me, but one, maybe CaspianPink, turns mealy if ripened on the vine...no longer grow it for other reasons, but maybe it was to hard to judge its perfect time? |
|
- Posted by prairiemoon2 zone 6a/MA (My Page) on Fri, Jun 27, 14 at 12:16
| Fireduck, that’s a good suggestion for the moisture meter if they really work. And they’re not that expensive, right? I could try that. Sleevendog, So far the tomatoes are doing well in the new soil although a little late getting started. I think after a couple of years of adding some organic matter and cover cropping here and there, they will be draining better. The mulch is helping to slow down the water in two beds, but one bed that I was doing an experiment with underplanting peppers with alyssum even with a soaker hose, the water is just puddling on the top of the soil and I’m not used to that at all. My soil I can stand there with the shower nozzle going full speed and the water never puddles. I’m growing Sungold for a cherry, a few Champion, a Fourth of July, Church, SanMarzano for a paste and a Moskevich. Okay, so thanks for the info about what happens when the tomatoes split. I’m going to try everyone's suggestion to pick earlier this year to avoid the splitting. Sungold definitely splits. I don’t know about the others, first time growing them. |
|
| that 7.7 gallon number comes from Dr. Linda Chalker Scott, take it for you will. GPH is short for gallons per hour, I have irrigation emitters that do various amount of water over time, some are 2 gph drippers, some 4gph sprayers, some 6 gph mini-sprinklers. |
|
| Seysonn, do they show the ‘gallon per minute’ flow on the tag when you buy your hose nozzle, or are you just determining that yourself by timing how long it takes to fill a container? %%%%%%%%%%%%% No , they dont. It (flow in gpm = gallons per minute) would depend on your water pressure and the valve, hose length. You can measure it yourself. It is simple. Take a 5 gal. bucket and time while filling it. Your watch has to have seconds hand. Rain Conversion To Gallons: There is 231 cu-inches to gallon. |
|
- Posted by sleevendog 5-6 (My Page) on Fri, Jun 27, 14 at 13:57
| My two extra beds are a bit of a bonus. My starts did better than most years past. I'm content if they don't do well. You do get the same storm patterns as we do...just a 1/2 day later or so. As you know, we get some very dry heat days and often a massive storm tossed in once a week. Seems perfect, but hard to deal with the splits. If a storm pattern has a pause, without lightning, i'll go out and harvest check and pick....and always first thing in the morning after a storm...anything close to ripe gets pulled to avoid the splits asap....but i always miss a few....so i know what happens to good flavor overripe and split. Nothing like a big bowl of blush toms on the counter, many varieties...near ready get lined up in a row not touching...i even built a raised tomato shelf to enjoy the process... |
|
| I'm lazy. I set up a soaker hose system on a timer. I have it go for an hour four times a week, first thing in the morning so there isn't much evaporation. If late in the afternoon the plants look stressed, I give them another hour. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Growing Tomatoes Forum
Information about Posting
- You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
- Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
- We have a strict no-advertising policy!
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.
Learn more about in-text links on this page here





