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Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by KMKacan 10 (kkacan@yahoo.com) on Mon, Jun 20, 11 at 0:38
| Do you feed your plants? How often are you watering them? As for the not producing fruit it could be that they were root bound when you bought them and now they are putting their energy into growing. Happy Gardening, |
Here is a link that might be useful: Urban Farm Wife
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- Posted by dickiefickle 5B DousmanWi. (My Page) on Mon, Jun 20, 11 at 0:40
| Not sure what the spots are . The three Beefsteak toms are planted way to close together,you need atleast three feet between them. I would at minimum pull the center one and plant it else where. They should start flowering (Romas) anytime soon . Have you applied fertilizer ? |
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- Posted by LB_Gardener Long Beach CA zone 9 (My Page) on Mon, Jun 20, 11 at 1:48
| If you've been using a high nitrogen fertilizer (like Miracle Gro), then I would switch to an organic tomato fertilizer like Espoma Tomato Tone. If Tomato plants get too much nitrogen, they will get tall and lanky with lots of huge leaves, and little to no fruit. They need a lower nitrogen fertilizer with more phosphorus and potassium for proper fruit set. I realize that I'm shooting in the dark with that last paragraph, but the pictures look like plants that have been getting too much nitrogen to me. As far as the spots, It's hard to tell. It looks like septoria leaf spot to me, but you'll be able to do a better job yourself by checking out pictures online and comparing them to your plant. Pick a leaf off and bring it inside to your computer so you can compare it directly to the pictures. I'll include a link to a good website that can help you diagnose it. Hope this helps, Michael |
Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato disease diagnostic chart
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- Posted by quietandrogyny 6, Tulsa, Oklahoma (My Page) on Mon, Jun 20, 11 at 15:35
| Thanks everyone. I water the garden twice a day. Once in the morning or noon (whenever I wake up) and once after the sun goes down. I do fertilize. I use some generic organic fertilizer from the plant farm I bought the seedlings from. As far as feeding them? If you're asking whether or not I use plant food on top of fertilizer, no. I'm not even a big fan of using the fertilizer honestly, but the plot of land I'm stuck using wasn't exactly the healthiest plot of land to plant in to begin with, so I had to use something. As for the septoria leaf spot, I looked it up and it KIND OF looks like what's on my tomato leaves, but these are just small white spots with not brown, black or tan discoloration around the outside edges. It literally just goes from green to white, and the white's dry and brittle. I didn't know that about the beefsteaks! I'm working with a ridiculously small plot of land for a garden. I'll replant the center one as soon as I can. |
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- Posted by quietandrogyny none (My Page) on Mon, Jun 20, 11 at 15:58
| I just went out and REALLY looked at my garden today. I definitely think my plants have something. My lavender's ok. Still looking good for a plant that was already mature when I bought it, my rosemary's stunted, but otherwise doing ok. But when you hit my parsley, it's got the same white spots, the bottom halves of the roma in my front row has almost been covered in the white spots and the amount of leaves infected seems to dropp off towards the top of the plant, my back row roma seems to be doing ok, only a few spots on the lower leaves. Both of my cucumber plants have the white spots too. I'm starting to think that one of my plants contracted something and the huge amount of ants I waged war against yesterday was spreading it :( The problem is that I'm not seeing anything that looks like what I described above on any of the disease charts. |
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- Posted by LB_Gardener Long Beach CA zone 9 (My Page) on Mon, Jun 20, 11 at 23:31
| Hmmmm, I wonder if it's insect damage? Have you inspected the undersides of the leaves for bugs? |
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- Posted by quietandrogyny none (My Page) on Mon, Jun 20, 11 at 23:41
| Yeah, I look at them constantly. There's no bugs on them. I noticed later today that some of them look like they've been chewed on my grasshoppers XD I don't really know how to keep grasshoppers out of my garden though. The white spots might be damage from the ants maybe? |
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- Posted by LB_Gardener Long Beach CA zone 9 (My Page) on Tue, Jun 21, 11 at 1:04
| Okay, couple more questions. When you water, do you spray the leaves, or just soak at the bottom of the plants? Also, do you have any objection to using chemical pesticides? |
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- Posted by quietandrogyny 6, Tulsa, Oklahoma (My Page) on Tue, Jun 21, 11 at 15:25
| Yes, i have objections to using chemical pesticides, but if I can't save my plants without them then I'll resort to them if I absolutely have to. When I waster my plants I soak the bottoms of them and try not to get any water on the leaves. Doesn't always work, but I do my best lol. |
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- Posted by LB_Gardener Long Beach CA zone 9 (My Page) on Wed, Jun 22, 11 at 1:44
| Okay, so you're not wetting the plants. That's good. I only asked because I made the mistake of wetting the whole plant before and had such bad fungus that it nearly died. As far as how to treat this plant, the general rule of thumb is to remove any affected foliage so the plant will not waste energy trying to heal it, and so it won't spread any further. My understanding is that it's not good to remove all of the affected foliage at once, but to start with 4 or 5 of the worst leaves on one day, and then continue each day taking off leaves or branches until most or all of the bad leaves are gone. I'm sure there's others out there with more experience who can comment on this, so please chime in! As far as natural sprays, Copper fungicides are pretty popular among organic gardeners, and supposedly work very well. I use neem oil, but it's more of a fungus preventer and mild insecticide than a disease treatment. I've provided a link to a copper spray as an example, but there are plenty of other brands to choose from. I've never used one yet, so I can't recommend one. All that being said, it would be great if you were able to diagnose the disease so that the spray will be the right one for your particular plant problem. I can't tell from the pictures to be honest, but there may be someone else trolling on the forum who can. Hope this helps, Michael |
Here is a link that might be useful: Copper fungicide
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| I water the garden twice a day. Once in the morning or noon (whenever I wake up) and once after the sun goes down. Your watering pattern is problematic for plants in the ground. As a general rule, tomatoes need an inch of water every week. An inch of rain is exactly that, water that is one inch deep. One inch of rainfall equals 4.7 gallons of water per square yard. So basically tomato plants need 5 gallons of water a week. Cool weather or soil with lots of clay needs will be less, hot weather or sandy soil will need more. Dig down with your finger about 4", is the growing medium wet, dry, or just right? If it is wet, don't water, if dry then water. If it is just right, check again the next day. Water deeply once or twice a week. Watering daily encourages shallow roots which means the plant is affected more by variations in soil moisture. In my garden during the heat of the summer, I water deeply every 4-5 days, early spring I may only water every 8-9 days and when the weather is moderatly warm (70-80 F), about once a week. Mulching heavily (to a depth of 6 - 8 inches) with compost, straw, hay, rotted leaves, grass clippings, even shredded paper or sheets of paper or cardboard helps maintain a consistent moisture level. I'm not sure what is causing the white spots either. They look almost like what you get when you have a sunburned plant (one that was put out without proper hardening off.) Betsy |
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