What is that?

Also, the leaves are still turning yellow. I started feeding them with kelp meal and tomato tone.

How do I add more than 1 picture?

I have removed all the lower leaves which had turned yellow. I sprayed with organic fungicide and fed these plants about 1 week or 10 days ago or so.

Absent that, it's one photo per post. [And if GW's software doesn't want to let you make two posts in a row, simply change what's in the Subject of Posting field.]

I sure wish I could get a handle on the yellow leaves!

Carolyn

I have started feeding my tomatoes with tomato-tone and kelp meal. I've only just started with it so maybe they haven't responded to it yet. I'm due to give more tomorrow.

I also just sprayed them with serenade fungicide at the same time.

Carolyn~~~sorry, I just have the one ML plant. There is one other tomato on this plant that has what might be "catfacing". Right next to the ML is a normal size tomato of unknown variety that has 1 tomato on it with very light scarring, no gouging into the fruit.

Not sure if the yellowing/brown leaves are related to the fruit damage. A bit of yellowing down low may not be common but it is for me. I remove lower leaves near the ground to avoid soil bourn diseases...(and someone told me to yrs ago.) I have very damp foggy mornings so i also use a light fresh straw mulch. Much of my early advice came from my local CoopExtension service and arboretum lectures. A way to learn common problems for your area and how to avoid...also what to look out for seasonally. I follow the commercial grower alerts. Posted weekly.

I grow plenty so i can rip out one that would ever look like that especially with others nearby that look so green and healthy. I've become much better at avoiding than identifying specific problems unless i see in person an insect doing its damage.

Hopefully and expert will give you a more specialized ID to the problem.

Animal/critter damage on my fruit does not usually heal over...tends to leave an open wet wound that invites other insects to join the feast...so it is hard to find who is initially responsible...starts to rot so i pull that damaged fruit.

I don't know if this sheds any light on what the marks are on the other tomato.

And showing off my new skill of adding more than 1 photo per post.

It is usually a result of cool temps at the time of pollination In some cases the sepals of the bloom may adhere to the fruit and cause them to be deformed, in some cases a second fruit or a partially pollinated ovule (as in the tiny one near the stem in the next to last photo) are incorporated into the dominant fruit causing the deformity. and zippering can be caused by all sorts of damage or injury including all of the above.

But none of them preventable in the usual sense of the word as they are primarily weather related and none are indicative of pests or disease. They are simply classed as physiological damages. The fruits are still edible and later fruit seldom displays the same symptoms.

Your yellow leaves you asked about is another matter. That is mostly nutrient related (based on the photos) and while you will lose the leaves already damaged, since you are feeding them the new growth should be healthy.

Hope this helps.

Dave

In the above two picture also they are not typical catfacing either (IMO) catfacing is normally centered around the blossom point, not on the side or stem end.
This is my understanding of Catfacing. It starts at pollination and shortly after that can be visible. Any crack and/or defect developed later is not a catfacing.