Return to the Growing Tomatoes Forum | Post a Follow-Up

 o
Mulio, thank you!!!!!

Posted by anney Georgia 8 (My Page) on
Tue, Jul 7, 09 at 9:47

You mentioned something in another thread as the source of spots on tomato leaves that I've never seen elsewhere, at least on the sites that list diseases and pest damage.

TOMATO PLANT LEAF EDEMA!

I've seen nearly a dozen GW posts with pictures of leaves with spots that don't seem to match any disease or insect damage that are usually listed on reputable sites. I've had the unidentifiable spots on my plant leaves, too, and worried for a long time about disease.

I finally concluded that the cool wet Spring weather must have something to do with physiologically triggering the spots.

So after I read your post, I did some internet hunting, and dang if you aren't right! Sure enough, one of the causes of leaf edema is too much water that "stimulates an abnormal increase in the size and number of a group of inner cells". See this site for more information.

Here's pertinent information related to tomatoes about the condition:

Edema may be a problem on the following vegetables: tomato foliage and fruit; bean foliage and pods; cabbage; broccoli; cauliflower; Brussels sprouts; potato foliage; most cucurbit fruit, foliage and stem. Probably all succulent tissues of vegetable crops are susceptible to edema.

Symptoms

Symptoms of edema are variable and depend on the plant species, the plant parts affected, and tenderness of the tissue. Typically, symptoms appear on the succulent leaves, stems, flowers, and fruit of susceptible plants as single, minute, watersoaked "blisters," "wart," or galls.

Causes

Edema may be caused by any agent that stimulates an abnormal increase in the size and number of a group of inner cells. Edema can be induced by (1) spraying with some chemicals such as ammoniacal copper carbonate in an oil emulsion, (2) injuries resulting from wind-blown sand particles and sucking insects, (3) high light intensity (over 2000 foot-candles) for ivy geraniums, and (4) accumulation of water in the intercellular spaces.

The most common cause of edema is the presence of abundant, warm soil water and a cool, moist atmosphere. Under these conditions the roots absorb water at a rate faster than is lost through transpiration. Excess water accumulates in the leaf, some parenchyma cells enlarge and block the stomatal openings through which water vapor is normally released from the plant; thereby contributing to further water retention in the leaf. If this condition persists, the enlarged cells divide, differentiate a cork cambium, and develop elongate cork cells externally to form a periderm. The rupture of the epidermis by the enlarged inner cells and the periderm account for the raised, crusty appearance of older edema spots.

So, again, enthusiastic thanks! I and many other people would have worried ourselves nutty trying to figure out what the spots are!


Follow-Up Postings:

 o
RE: Mulio, thank you!!!!!

Maybe that's what one of my two PL plants got. It started looking bad, even and especially in the new growth, so I pulled it to avoid spreading a possible disease. Even if it wasn't a disease, production was terrible on the plant anyway so it needed to be pulled.


 o
RE: Mulio, thank you!!!!!

Mule got one right, I am shocked.


 o
RE: Mulio, thank you!!!!!

Mulio is my hero! Just what this place needs....correct information.


 o
RE: Mulio, thank you!!!!!

  • Posted by anney Georgia 8 (My Page) on
    Wed, Jul 8, 09 at 7:50

Here are more pictures of tomato leaves damaged by edema.

You can see why somebody would think the plant had a disease with leaves wilting, discoloration, brown blotches, etc. All from the plant's uptake of so much water that the leaf-cells expand rapidly and plug up the respiratory pores on the surface. Then blisters form which turn brown and cause that part of the leaf tissue to die.


 o
RE: Mulio, thank you!!!!!

Bob and John, delighted to see you both posting in this thread. LOL ( wink)

And Bob especially, wonder what you've been doing. John posts here from time to time, but I don't see you posting all that much.

Ah, what histories have been created in terms of online doings. LOL

Carolyn, just finding out that her old sprayer is dead so Freda has to go to Agway and buy a new one to get everything sprayed with Daconil re the Late Blight situation here in the NE. Double Sigh. And she just brought in a branch of one plant for me to look at but thankfully it's just too much moisture, not edema, but just too much moisture, but have to get that Daconil on the tomatoes, potatoes, squash, cukes, etc. ASAP. No, LB doesn't hit the squash and cukes; that's for powdery mildew, and that's correct information. LOL


 o
RE: Mulio, thank you!!!!!

Carolyn, I am in a fight for the lives of my tomatoes, potatoes and peppers. P. infestans has reared its ugly head in my garden.

Bob, however, has probably been goofing off somewhere.


 o
RE: Mulio, thank you!!!!!

Carolyn, I lurk around here at times, I am not growing as much as I would like these days, too many other things popped up. And, as JTCM points out, I have been goofing off with home brewing beer, keeping my business afloat and making JT feel bad about his bad growing practices.


 o
RE: Mulio, thank you!!!!!

How do you treat edema on tomato plant?


 o
RE: Mulio, thank you!!!!!

It wouldnt be something you "treat". Rather it's something to prevent. Once you do see it just best to help the plant grow well. It would likely grow out of it if the environmental cause has ended.

I suppose if one helped the excess soil moisture drain/dry out more (make holes in soil) or stay cooler (mulch the soil) that might help.


 o Post a Follow-Up

Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum.

    If you are a member, please log in.

    If you aren't yet a member, join now!


Return to the Growing Tomatoes Forum

Information about Posting

  • You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
  • Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
  • After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
  • Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
  • We have a strict no-advertising policy!
  • If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
  • If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.


Learn more about in-text links on this page here